Author Topic: Some temp observations (Read 6125 times)

canuguzzi · « **on:** July 28, 2015, 04:20:16 PM »

Nothing scientific and externally gathered (not engine ECU data:

Immediately upon shutdown and after an hour in 100 & + degree temps upon shutdown after 15 second idle (coast down driveway at 2 mph) Not hard riding, mixed twisties 30-50 mph, easy throttle, some straights, about 60 and then through town at 15 then mild sweepers and straights at 45 mph)

Outboard cylinder head (wall, not fin) measured next to exhaust: 238 degrees F on right side left 237

Inboard: 239 R 239 L

Oil pan in front of cat: 220

As deep between cylinders and laser hitting who knows what: 239

Through lower fairing below cylinder: 230 (both sides)

Took readings four times, each came out within 1 degree of each other. Laser temp reader within 6"

Means absolutely nothing I know.

neverquit · « **Reply #1 on:** July 28, 2015, 04:30:38 PM »

I've used a temperature scanner on my air cooled motorcycles and gotten about the same readings. Usually between 220-240 F head temp near the exhaust. My small block 750 IE runs about 220 F. My results tend to vary quite a bit depending on what sort of riding I have been doing and the outdoor temperature.

Moto Fugazzi · « **Reply #2 on:** July 28, 2015, 10:26:19 PM »

I have a Cylinder Head Temp gauge (CHT) on my V11 Cafe. In hotter weather in stop and go traffic, I've had readings of 361F, and haven't noticed anything weird with the bike. I also have one of those fancy oil temp dipsticks, and oil temps have stayed below 120C. If it gets close to that, it's a good time to pull over and have a beverage.
http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-electrical-parts/gauges-indicators-universal/trail-tech-tto-engine-temperature-guage?b=3104433&utm_source=feed&utm_medium=merchantfeed&utm_campaign=pla&kpid=3104433&gclid=CJmQwvix_8YCFQGqaQodawMAqQ
Ken

Phang · « **Reply #3 on:** July 29, 2015, 01:46:24 AM »

I made similar temperature records for my Griso 8V too.

temperatures are recorded using an IR thermometer aiming at the same spot, 3 minutes after the engine shut off after a 130 km (81 miles) ride.

outside temp ~ 35C
cylinder temp - 107~114C
engine sump - 94~109C
gearbox - 69 ~75C
CARC - 48~55C

Translation below -

outside temp ~ 95F
cylinder temp - 225~237F
engine sump - 201~228F
transmission - 156~167F
CARC - 118~131F

Groover · « **Reply #4 on:** July 29, 2015, 08:01:41 AM »

Thanks for posting. This is good to know info, especially for those whom are looking to paint engine parts.

Peter from Sch'dy · « **Reply #5 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:05:39 AM »

Quote from: Phang on July 29, 2015, 01:46:24 AM

I made similar temperature records for my Griso 8V too.

temperatures are recorded using an IR thermometer aiming at the same spot, 3 minutes after the engine shut off after a 130 km (81 miles) ride.

outside temp ~ 35C
cylinder temp - 107~114C
engine sump - 94~109C
gearbox - 69 ~75C
CARC - 48~55C

Translation below -

outside temp ~ 95F
cylinder temp - 225~237F
engine sump - 201~228F
transmission - 156~167F
CARC - 118~131F

Thanks for this!
I'm repairing my CARC and will be checking temp during trial runs. 130F from a non-leaking properly operating CARC is a good number to know and about as high a temp as I can hold my hand on so, seat of the pants feel should be adequate.

Thanks Again!

Peter

sign216 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:19:18 AM »

Quote from: Moto Fugazzi on July 28, 2015, 10:26:19 PM

I have a Cylinder Head Temp gauge (CHT) on my V11 Cafe. In hotter weather in stop and go traffic, I've had readings of 361F, and haven't noticed anything weird with the bike. I also have one of those fancy oil temp dipsticks, and oil temps have stayed below 120C. If it gets close to that, it's a good time to pull over and have a beverage.
http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-electrical-parts/gauges-indicators-universal/trail-tech-tto-engine-temperature-guage?b=3104433&utm_source=feed&utm_medium=merchantfeed&utm_campaign=pla&kpid=3104433&gclid=CJmQwvix_8YCFQGqaQodawMAqQ
Ken

Ken, what kind of sender and gauge do you have? I've got two spark plug washer-style senders (one for each cyl) for a dual temp gauge. Took a lot of work to get them semi-reliable.

Phang · « **Reply #7 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:31:47 AM »

My records included readings after oil changes. You guys probably wanted to know fresh oil in the engine, transmission and CARC didn't give the lowest numbers in my records.

I always thought that fresh lubricant causes less friction thus less heat generated, especially in CARC case (no pun intended).

Moto Fugazzi · « **Reply #8 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:34:13 AM »

Quote from: sign216 on July 29, 2015, 09:19:18 AM

Ken, what kind of sender and gauge do you have? I've got two spark plug washer-style senders (one for each cyl) for a dual temp gauge. Took a lot of work to get them semi-reliable.

I have the TTO digital gauge and spark plug washer sender. I haven't verified the temps...but if I see it getting too high, I start checking the oil temp dipstick.
Ken

sign216 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 29, 2015, 10:09:40 AM »

Ken I like the analog look, and w two cylinders, the dual gauge is great for me.

Normal readings for me, about 420 to 460 F.

Triple Jim · « **Reply #10 on:** July 29, 2015, 11:20:09 AM »

Quote from: Phang on July 29, 2015, 09:31:47 AM

My records included readings after oil changes. You guys probably wanted to know fresh oil in the engine, transmission and CARC didn't give the lowest numbers in my records.

I always thought that fresh lubricant causes less friction thus less heat generated, especially in CARC case (no pun intended).

Maybe it makes sense... Oil slowly gets its long chain molecules sheared into shorter ones during use, causing it to get thinner, which is one reason it needs to be changed periodically. So fresh oil is more viscous, and should cause more friction loss, and get warmer. Friction loss in the oil itself, that is, not metal on metal type friction.

Phang · « **Reply #11 on:** July 29, 2015, 11:56:14 AM »

Quote from: Triple Jim on July 29, 2015, 11:20:09 AM

Maybe it makes sense... Oil slowly gets its long chain molecules sheared into shorter ones during use, causing it to get thinner, which is one reason it needs to be changed periodically. So fresh oil is more viscous, and should cause more friction loss, and get warmer. Friction loss in the oil itself, that is, not metal on metal type friction.

Sounds logical Jim

Triple Jim · « **Reply #12 on:** July 29, 2015, 01:15:31 PM »

It's interesting that you noticed the temperature difference. I really had never thought about it before.

canuguzzi · « **Reply #13 on:** July 29, 2015, 04:03:44 PM »

Quote from: sign216 on July 29, 2015, 10:09:40 AM

Ken I like the analog look, and w two cylinders, the dual gauge is great for me.

Normal readings for me, about 420 to 460 F.

It looks very Guzzi-ish.

canuguzzi · « **Reply #14 on:** July 29, 2015, 04:06:35 PM »

? Does the ring for the sender affect the length of the plug insertion or does it replace the crush washer?

Moto Fugazzi · « **Reply #15 on:** July 29, 2015, 04:10:30 PM »

Quote from: Norge Pilot on July 29, 2015, 04:06:35 PM

? Does the ring for the sender affect the length of the plug insertion or does it replace the crush washer?

It replaces the crush washer, although it's not as thick as it.
Ken

Peter from Sch'dy · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2015, 08:42:43 AM »

Hello All,

Took the plunge and installed MG's pinion shims 5203 and McMaster Carr shims 98089a472/404 (1 & 2mm, 25mm ID and 36mm OD which had to be reduced to 34mm to clear cages) between the CARC pinion inner races with 0.001" clearance. With the nut torqued to 45-50 ft/lbs the pinion spins freely allowing for slight friction of seals. McMaster shims used to make up gross space and MG 5203 to get the .001" clearance. Should be tight enough to keep the inner races and seal runner from moving independent of pinion shaft which caused a leak and worse, loose pinion nut. Blue Loctite should also help. Ran 75 miles @65mph this morning and CARC oil temp was at 50 deg C. Leaving for 10-12 day trip Saturday and hoping things stay together!

Best,
Peter

Phang · « **Reply #17 on:** July 30, 2015, 08:47:52 AM »

Quote from: cheese1 on July 30, 2015, 08:42:43 AM

Hello All,

Took the plunge and installed MG's pinion shims 5203 and McMaster Carr shims 98089a472/404 (1 & 2mm, 25mm ID and 36mm OD which had to be reduced to 34mm to clear cages) between the CARC pinion inner races with 0.001" clearance. With the nut torqued to 45-50 ft/lbs the pinion spins freely allowing for slight friction of seals. McMaster shims used to make up gross space and MG 5203 to get the .001" clearance. Should be tight enough to keep the inner races and seal runner from moving independent of pinion shaft which caused a leak and worse, loose pinion nut. Blue Loctite should also help. Ran 75 miles @65mph this morning and CARC oil temp was at 50 deg C. Leaving for 10-12 day trip Saturday hoping things stay together!

Best,
Peter

50 deg C is within the range of my bike, I wondered if two wrongs make a right?

Peter from Sch'dy · « **Reply #18 on:** July 30, 2015, 08:57:08 AM »

Quote from: Phang on July 30, 2015, 08:47:52 AM

50 deg C is within the range of my bike, I wondered if two wrongs make a right?

Phang,
I used your temps as baseline so if this doesn't work...

Best,
Peter

Phang · « **Reply #19 on:** July 30, 2015, 09:02:40 AM »

Quote from: cheese1 on July 30, 2015, 08:57:08 AM

Phang,
I used your temps as baseline so if this doesn't work...

Best,
Peter

My CARC current mileage is 21,000km (13,000 miles), your rebuilt CARC should last at least the same mileage :-)

Peter from Sch'dy · « **Reply #20 on:** July 30, 2015, 09:05:13 AM »

Quote from: Phang on July 30, 2015, 09:02:40 AM

My CARC current mileage is 21,000km (13,000 miles), your rebuilt CARC should last at least the same mileage :-)

62,750 miles this morning after trial run.

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Author Topic: Some temp observations (Read 6125 times)

canuguzzi

canuguzzi

canuguzzi