Repacking Bub Mufflers

[Trinorman]

I just picked up some Bubs for my V65SP and want to repack them.  Has anyone here repacked these particular Bubs?   From various searches, it looks like I have to drill out the rivet.  Then remove the baffle.  Has anyone removed one like this?  There is no way to really grip it to pull it out.  Can it be knocked out from the narrow end?  Maybe get some sort of hook into the baffle and yank it out?  Presuming I get it out, do I just need a sheet metal screw to replace the rivet?

Any input much appreciated.

Chris

[265coupe]

Wow. That SP looks new. Got any more photos?

[Guido Valvole]

If they're like the Bub "Conti Replicas" I had on a Ducati Darmah 30 years ago, there is no packing in there. Glass-packs without the glass. Thinly-disguised open megaphones. 6000 rpm through the Alameda Tube, mmmmmm the sound of a big-block Can-Am car. And just as loud.
cr

[Trinorman]

Definitely packing in there as it is visible, but blowing out.  Needs new packing, but want to know if I'm on the right track to get to it.

[BMCMOTO]

Yes drill the rivet, mine just slipped out.  I packed with Moose Racing repack kit held with safety wire.  Mine were an actual muffler, not straight through.  Toned them down and mellowed the sound.  My understanding is that Bub used several different inner systems over the years so maybe not all are the same inners.

Brian

[chuck peterson]

At your local Ace hardware, look for a variable thickness rivet to replace the one you drill out...

I used white bros muffler packing, held in place with hi temp tape...try doubling up

Used an axe handle to come in from the front and pop out the insert...

Made a beautiful sound when re packed but lasted maybe 10k before it got blown out

Best sounding muffler of an 80's vintage

[Cool Runnings]

I replaced some Bub's once, drill out the rivets, pull out the guts and repack with steel wool.

[Tobit]

+1 on drill the rivet, pull the baffle, wrap with Moose or other brand of repacking material and safety wire then re-insert.  Use a rivet to secure.  When I had Bubs, when the packing blew out there was a lot of crackle and other obnoxious farting on deceleration.  Repack and they were boomalicious again.

Now I have a set of Emgo Dunstall replicas and the same applies as far as packing.  Except they have three nuts to remove and pull the tube.

Tobit

[Trinorman]

Thanks everyone for all the tips.  I don't have a riveter so will have to try a sheet metal screw or something.  I've got the packing material as I also have an Emgo Dunstall replica on my Honda GB500 which needs repacking occasionally.

Chris

[ritratto]

Pop rivet guns are cheap. Screws will back out from vibration, more likely than not.

[Cool Runnings]

Thanks everyone for all the tips.  I don't have a riveter so will have to try a sheet metal screw or something.  I've got the packing material as I also have an Emgo Dunstall replica on my Honda GB500 which needs repacking occasionally.

Chris

Steel wool from the hardware store works just as good. 

[Trinorman]

Bubs successfully repacked today and buttoned back up with a new rivet.  Thanks again everyone.

Chris

[ritratto]

So, what packing did you end up using? I have a pair that need it too.

[wrbix]

Steel wool from the hardware store works just as good. 

Sounds like a recipe for rust

[Trinorman]

So, what packing did you end up using?

I don't know the brand name.  Several years ago I got a bunch of it from a company called Rewarder Headers locally who make custom headers and exhaust systems.  They have it in bulk rolls for their business.  The owner was kind enough to just give me some for a bike that I was working on at the time.

Chris

[ritratto]

Ok, but was it fiberglass or stainless wool? Thanks.

[Trinorman]

Fiberglass.

[Triple Jim]

Sounds like a recipe for rust

You can get stainless steel wool, which is the right thing to use for something like this if you're going with steel wool.