Treadle floorboard for converts

[gearman]

 I am thinking of making a treadle floorboard that when the front is pushed the brakes are applied.Having built the belt drive tranny and the foot operated parking brake I can surely do it.I have given it a lot of thought but I thought I would check with the collective wisdom of the board first.I am not a fan of having to grind the frame mounted floorboard tabs off though.I read in the archives where some here have made the brake side like a standard T3 with pegs.Did one have to buy a T3 lower frame rail?Brake pedal,foot peg?The treadle idea intrigues me.Any thoughts. Thanks Mike

[jbell]

Pretty sure you have to get different lower frame rails and linkages to switch to pegs.  Re. the floorboard brake, what happens if you sneeze?

[gearman]

Pretty sure you have to get different lower frame rails and linkages to switch to pegs.  Re. the floorboard brake, what happens if you sneeze?

I thought about that.I am thinking that if I make the geometry similar to a peg and pedal then it might be doable.The only thing I am thinking that with a regular setup your foot is to the right or the pedal at an angle and then pivoted over the pedal. I am trying to not have to lift my foot and put my heel on the little rubber heel rest .It just does not feel ergonomic to me.

[gearman]

Maybe removing the nub or making an advanced pedal is an answer?

[georgemii]

I've removed heel peg from brake pedal on my Convert. Does feel better, but as you say, foot still turns out, then lift to brake. Could I talk you into fabricating (and selling me) a pedal which is forward of floorboard? Used to see 'em
around, but not lately.

[gearman]

I've removed heel peg from brake pedal on my Convert. Does feel better, but as you say, foot still turns out, then lift to brake. Could I talk you into fabricating (and selling me) a pedal which is forward of floorboard? Used to see 'em
around, but not lately.

There are two links that I read with good pictures showing home made pedal mods.You still have to lift your foot and slide  forward I think.I don't think I want to make more than one .

[dguzzi]

What about just sliding the floor board forward? It would take getting used to though....(thinking aloud...

[Two Checks]

Think aircraft style toe brakes...

[Groover]

Interesting concept. I would suggest to at least consider splitting the floor board in two parts; Where the rear/heal part is stationary, and the front swivels. The front however would still need to be inclined a little however in this case.

[cruzziguzzi]

So any tilting of the board begins to apply the brakes?

In that case, I'd be out.

I move my feet around a lot.
I stand more often than one would think... Stretch, balance, whatever.
I like to extend my feet from time to time raising the heel to stretch.

For my riding style and practices, it's a non-starter.


Todd.

[gearman]

After thinking and measuring ended up cold bending the brake lever at the two rearward bends,straightening them to make a straight lever except for the 90 degree bend to the rubber pad.What I was aiming for was to be able to keep my heel on the floorboard and just pivot my ball of foot over the pad. The problem with the oem was the side of the boot also hit the lever rod.I straightened it at about 20 tons between two aluminum plates.It did not even damage the chrome.The only thing is the pad is 2and 3/8 in. wide now and up to 2in.more width might be perfect to center the foot .The converts must be different than other models because this was so easy.If any convert owner would measure the stock lever for me I would like to know how much longer my lever got .Measure from the back of the rubber pad to the front of the clevis pin head.Mine is 6 and3/8 in.If any one knows of a source for a 2x4 brake (clutch) pad,Let me know.TBC

[dguzzi]

can we see what you did?

[gearman]

can we see what you did?

I don't have a picture hosting account. It was great when we had one here.

[Cal3Me]

how about an extension piece just on the front end of the board that's hinged to pivot and leave the boards like they are??

[gearman]

After thinking and measuring ended up cold bending the brake lever at the two rearward bends,straightening them to make a straight lever except for the 90 degree bend to the rubber pad.What I was aiming for was to be able to keep my heel on the floorboard and just pivot my ball of foot over the pad. The problem with the oem was the side of the boot also hit the lever rod.I straightened it at about 20 tons between two aluminum plates.It did not even damage the chrome.The only thing is the pad is 2and 3/8 in. wide now and up to 2in.more width might be perfect to center the foot .The converts must be different than other models because this was so easy.If any convert owner would measure the stock lever for me I would like to know how much longer my lever got .Measure from the back of the rubber pad to the front of the clevis pin head.Mine is 6 and3/8 in.If any one knows of a source for a 2x4 brake (clutch) pad,Let me know.TBC

I am still hoping to get  the asked for measurement.  Also I took pictures and hope my son can come over to figure out how to post it.If I can find another used lever I might make another one. It took me a whole day to do the one I made.  I dont know why Guzzi didn't do it like mine in the first place.I had to mill an oval extension piece to match the stock profile.The mating was perfect but a royal pain to line up,It was fun though and the joy will be there in the using.

[BigDave in PA]

Here's the one I made back in about 2003. Ive put about 80k miles on since and would never go back. I wear a size 14 boot so there was no way the stock one would work. I t took me a couple hours with a torch and a Lincoln stick welder.

[dguzzi]

Makes me think of a slot in the front part of the floorboard that the pedal could stick up through.
 Not sure if a Convert is different though.

[gearman]

Here's the one I made back in about 2003. Ive put about 80k miles on since and would never go back. I wear a size 14 boot so there was no way the stock one would work. I t took me a couple hours with a torch and a Lincoln stick welder.

Nice work there.With size 14 boots I can see why you needed it.Did you increase your mechanical advantage?

[georgemii]

My Convert pedal (stock) is also 6 3/8" from rear of pad to front of clevis.

[gearman]

My Convert pedal (stock) is also 6 3/8" from rear of pad to front of clevis.

Thanks ,George. I would have thought by straightening the two bends that it would have grown.I guess it's old too. I ordered a Mazda brake lever pad and might make a mod to my mod.With soft soles the curved and small rubber seems imprecise.Any ideas on curved vs. flat pads?

[rodekyll]

Seems to me that if you made a toe plate on a hinge that bolted to the foredeck of the running board, run a rod from the inside of it to the brake pump and add a return spring the effect would be the same as all that fancy pedal stuff without all the engineering.  Maybe.  I'm sure someone will find some reason why this can't work.

But since you already went to the "belt box", why not just get the radial master cyl off a gxxr. flop it over and mount it where your clutch lever used to be?  Then your floorboards are completely clear on both sides and you can link or unlink the brakes any way you want to.  I did this mod some 30k ago on the rodekyll and haven't looked back.  OK -- it's a Convert, so there's no point in looking back -- there's not going to be anyone behind me.