Rear drive question

[Wayne Orwig]

In the end, it is warranty.

That means calling the shop in Georgia to schedule it to ride it there, and hope the problem is there when you get to the shop.
Or...
Trailer it to the shop and leave it so they can ride the snot out of it and repeat the issue.
Or...
Do it yourself.
Or....
Trailer it to me and leave it for about 8 months, I'll figure it out, and cut you a break on the price.

Seriously though, this is why I don't care much for warranties. Many times, they are a bigger hassle then no warranty.

[Huzo]

In the end, it is warranty.

That means calling the shop in Georgia to schedule it to ride it there, and hope the problem is there when you get to the shop.
Or...
Trailer it to the shop and leave it so they can ride the snot out of it and repeat the issue.
Or...
Do it yourself.
Or....
Trailer it to me and leave it for about 8 months, I'll figure it out, and cut you a break on the price.

Seriously though, this is why I don't care much for warranties. Many times, they are a bigger hassle then no warranty.

Yeah, often as not they do bugger all , then say "it's a bitter better, take it and see how ya go" !!!!!!!!

[Huzo]

Um, that should read "a BIT better, and see how ya go"

[Jeepjohn]

I can't seem to find a workshop manual to buy. I would like to read the specifics on replacing the shaft.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Give this a try..
http://guzzista.wikifoundry.com/page/Moto+Guzzi+California+Manuals

[acguzzi]

how about the joint touching the housing at an extreme suspension extension, do you have preload set high? You wouldn't hear it while riding as the suspension is compressed somewhat. It would also explain the dragging if the joint is rubbing inside the swinging arm.

[Huzo]

Don't fall for the trap of running the bike in gear on a work stand !

[Rusnak_322]

what is the issue with running the bike on the center stand or work stand? is it bad on the u-joints running at full suspension droop?

[guzziownr]

Well things do go wrong and you won't trust it until it's resolved. Could be a u joint carrier bearing, they talk to you when they go away.

  This is what happens when you don't listen:

[John A]

 :1:
And it will test your riding ability.

[Red Dog]

Just a curiosity question:
Have you been jacking wheel stands?

It's fun to do on a shaft bike but can be costly.

[Huzo]

what is the issue with running the bike on the center stand or work stand? is it bad on the u-joints running at full suspension droop?

There's a lot been posted on this subject here, for a couple of reasons, I'm not the best person to ask, but you'll probably get an answer of some sort.

[Huzo]

Check out Norge final drive noise, Feb 28 @ 9.54 , that's a good read if you're after a chat !

[Orange Guzzi]

how about the joint touching the housing at an extreme suspension extension, do you have preload set high? You wouldn't hear it while riding as the suspension is compressed somewhat. It would also explain the dragging if the joint is rubbing inside the swinging arm.

     this what one of my bikes did.   I adjusted the swing arm screw pins to align the shaft.  The u joint was hitting weld lumps.  1/2 turn in on one side and 1/2 turn out on opposite side.  Fixed the noise.   

[davedude]

Well things do go wrong and you won't trust it until it's resolved. Could be a u joint carrier bearing, they talk to you when they go away.

Yes they do. Mine went out on my 07 calvin. It sounded like a spun brg. I believe the fit on the cardan shaft was undersize from the fatory, since it went out at less than 20k. I brought it to the shop and they put a new brg on. This was disappointing even before I rode it since a spun brg ruins the fit (the fit didn't look wiped out though). I rode it anyway and within a mile it was evident again. I took it back off, mic'd it, found it to be a loose fit. I then brought it up here to work and had one of the guys turn it down and shrink a sleeve on and turn it to a k5 fit.
It's been fine since. i was worried at first since we had to take enough off to accept a sleeve that I thought would be robust enough to stay in place, but not so much that it would weaken the shaft  too much. There's enough meat there though, I believe. I'm now at 27000 mi. BTW there was no worrisome clunking that I recall. New Shaft is roughly 500.00 for the part.
DB 

[krglorioso]

The later, extended, twin coupling driveshafts have proven super reliable. Doesn't mean they can't fail but if it has it will be an exceptional occurrence.

Pete

Pete:  What year or on what models did the later driveshafts first appear?

Thank you,
Ralph

[pete roper]

About 2002-2003 I think? Sorry for the delay, I thought someone more familiar with later Tontis would of been able to answer.

Pete