First time oil change

[n9iz]

Nothing could prepare me for the three hours of hell I just experienced...that is changing the oil on my 2007 Norge.  Oh my gosh, I'm not sure I've ever suffered a more revolting sequence of events required just to change oil.  I'd also planned on changing the transmission oil and the oil in the shaft drive, but I lack the motivation to go on.  Will have to wait for another day.  I'm tired and my back is aching now.  Did I mention I attempted this on the sixth straight day of work on third shift just after getting off for my one day weekend?

I did get in a quick 10 mile ride before changing the oil.  On a bright note, the old oil looked practically brand new.  The previous owner claimed that the service had been done by a dealership at the correct interval while he owned it.  Since it's now nine years old and only has 2100 miles on it (400 of which I put on last fall after I bought it), I figure it should be changed just 'cause, as a precaution since it's sat in my unheated garage all winter.

Hope to drive it more this year.  Messy road construction in my area kept me off the bike last fall.  Dangerous enough dealing with the confused drivers in my car, let alone on two wheels.  Another revelation I first experienced this morning...heated grips are awesome!  Never had them before but it was under 50 degrees when I took off and they sure felt great.  I guess this is enough for a first post.  All the best.

Jeff

[Kev m]

Uhhh, Welcome to the forum? It gets better?

That's about all I got.

Get some sleep. Sorry it sucked the first time. Really it's normally no big deal (at least it was no big deal on my Breva 1100, but it didn't have as much body work).

Kev

[Chuck in Indiana]

Welcome to WG.  Yes, I thought heated grips were foo foo myself until I got an 07 Norge. They rock. 
It's really nice if you have a lift to service the Norge. The plastic is a PITA. Oil goes everywhere unless you make up some simple aluminum foil troughs for it to run into the catch can. If you don't, you'll never have to worry about your exhaust rusting ..that's for sure. 
Let's face it. Guzzi has never been good about service accessibility, but they're worth it. 

[Sheepdog]

In 2007, I was considering the Norge and the California Vintage. The Vintage won out, due to the visual and physical access to the engine. I get all the frustration I can take with the plastic on my wife's Piaggio...

[Cool Runnings]

I'm out $300 for first service,  Norge 8V.

Next one, it's time for me to figure it out!

[Tom]

Jeff, take heart.  There are a number of Norge owners that have gone through what you've done.  They have tips.  You'll have to wait for them to post.  I'm not a Norge owner because of the confined seating but have some patience.

[Sasquatch Jim]

  Since your back hurts you must be changing the oil by removing the fill cap and holding the machine upside down.  This technique works but is bad for the battery.

[Tom]

You again.    You might get him confused.  I have a cherry picker and that did work.   

[drw916]

Yeah,  on mine I left off all of the lower fairing.  It was easy from then on.

[n9iz]

Thanks for the encouragement. I really like the bike. It's the plastic removal that sucks the most. Should only need to do it once a year, though. No MG dealer within 100 miles of home so I'm mostly on my own for service and repairs. Fortunately, this site exists! All the best.

Jeff

[fotoguzzi]

What's your location? a shoulder to cry on is probably close by..

[mikebr]

Thanks for the encouragement. I really like the bike. It's the plastic removal that sucks the most. Should only need to do it once a year, though. No MG dealer within 100 miles of home so I'm mostly on my own for service and repairs. Fortunately, this site exists! All the best.

Jeff

You can leave the plastic on just get either a  25mm socket or 1" cant remember been awhile and a long reach extension and take the oil filler plug off where the dipstick goes in and then it so much easier and quicker. Learnt my lesson the hard way first time I changed the oil.

Mine had the hole drilled into the plastic with the rubber bung so you could access the dip stick, would check for you but it's in a container going half way around the world.

[Zoom Zoom]

Thanks for the encouragement. I really like the bike. It's the plastic removal that sucks the most. Should only need to do it once a year, though. No MG dealer within 100 miles of home so I'm mostly on my own for service and repairs. Fortunately, this site exists! All the best.

Jeff

There is a proper sequence to removing the plastic. It is fairly easy once you know what is going on. Been a while since I had my '07, but I could do it without much trouble now if I needed to. Start on the right, and work your way around to the left side. Reverse for assembly.

John Henry

[ITSec]

From a Norge owner with over 20 oil changes under his belt (literally, I suppose)...

A 2007 Norge (from the factory) does not have the access hole in the plastic to the oil port, nor does it have the pull-out dipstick (again, unless modified). It would be worth your while to add these. They are present 2008 and on. The kit is available, containing dipstick, new style plug that it slides into, and rubber trim plug that covers the access port you'll drill. A template shows where to make the cut using a hole saw; remember to use masking tape over the cut area and to do a quick dress-up with a file to smooth the edges of the new hole.

If you have the access port in the plastic and have the pull-out dipstick, here are some tips. All of this assumes you are actually using the center stand.

- While the oil is draining, pull out the dipstick, and grab a medium length wobble socket extension, a 1" socket, and the appropriate socket wrench. Reaching through the access port, place the socket on the black plug that the dipstick slides into; you'll be removing it. The wobble end will help the socket stay aligned even though the port means you're coming in at a bit of an odd angle.

- After the oil has drained, put the drain plug back in before you lose it (or forget). Remove the old oil filter - it's easiest with an appropriate thin-wall (metal) filter cap wrench. Take the filter type you like (I use Mobil1 M1-102 on my Norge) with you to the store when buying the cap wrench, and their fit is often a bit off. Once again, put the new filter on while you're there, before you forget.

- Now, get a long flexible neck funnel (I use a metal one of the kind sometimes used for transmission fluids). The metal ones are nice because once you have them in place and bent the right way, they'll mostly stay where you put them. NOTE THAT I HAVE NOT REMOVED ANY PLASTIC AT THIS POINT! I place the funnel downwards next to the left valve cover, NOT through the access port. A bit of bending, and this now stays in place vertically.

- Here's a secret of the Guzzinati: Before you start all this, place the CLOSED bottle(s) of oil in a sink full of hot water, with an old cloth nearby. When you are ready to pour the oil in the engine, it will be warm and ready to flow more quickly. Wipe the bottle down so you aren't dripping water in with the oil. Be patient while the oil drains down through the funnel; this will never be as quick as pouring oil into a car engine.

- Once the appropriate amount of oil has been added (somewhere between 3.5 and 3.8 litres depending on the idiosyncrasies of your bike), allow the funnel to drain thoroughly and then pull it out and place it in the catch bucket. What do you mean, you don't have a catch bucket?!?

- Another secret of the Guzzinati: remember that plug that the dipstick slides into? Grab it, check the o-ring for damage, and then slide it onto the dipstick. Yes, BEFORE you try placing it back into the engine. Don't slide it all the way up, just let it slide loosely. Using the dipstick to guide it through the access port and to the location on the motor, allow it to slide down the dipstick into where it will be replaced. Now, DON'T reach for the socket yet. Using one hand, pull the plastic away from the engine down by the header pipe, below the access port. With two fingers from the other hand, gently reach in and finger-tighten the plug into the threads. Don't be surprised if you have to try this a couple times to get the hang of starting these threads without the plug falling out of the hole.

- Once the plug is caught properly on the threads, you can reach though the access port with the wobble extension and socket, and tighten the plug down. Remember, this is a plastic plug in a metal hole - don't go crazy tightening it! Finally, return the dipstick to its place.

- Final secret of the Guzzinati: use aluminum (aluminium for our British friends) foil to create drainage paths for the oil when draining transmission or final drive oils. If you don't, there is virtually no way to avoid getting oil all over the exhaust and center stand (transmission) or rear wheel and brake (CARC). You may still get some spills, but this will at least greatly reduce the mess.

[Sasquatch Jim]

  That tinfoil trick is cheating!  If you do not allow a big oil mess you will anger the Karma gods.
 The bike is designed to make a mess, who are you to deliberately negate the design the engineers built into it.

[n9iz]

I'll be sure to put those pointers to good use next oil change and also when I service the trans and CARC.  Thanks.  I have the dipstick plug and rubber grommet on my bike, so a previous owner must've already helped me out there.  Looking forward to doing some riding for now.  2100 miles = barely broke in!

Jeff

[Huzo]

IT sec has held your hand beautifully mate, and if you follow what he says you'll have no trouble at all. My Norge has nearly 100,000 km so for me that's 10 oil changes. Reading his post I could close my eyes and swear he was doing mine. Just a couple of things, a quick lift work stand is worth 5 times the purchase price, also I got a Teo Lamers dip stick extension for my '07 from the get go and as IT said, you don't have to remove any plastic, and honestly mate, with your bike on a work stand at waist height, you'll have a lot of change out of 1 hour to fully do the job. But the important thing is, you'll bloody well enjoy it and get a good chance to look over the bike. BTW is it RED?

[Zoom Zoom]

<snip> I got a Teo Lamers dip stick extension for my '07 from the get go <snip>

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. I put one of those on as well. A great addition for sure. Then, I braised a small copper tube onto the bottom on the side of a tin coffee can. The copper tube fit inside the TLM tube and I could simply keep the can filled until I had put in the proper amount of oil. Kind of a home made funnel.

John Henry

[giusto]

From a Norge owner with over 20 oil changes under his belt (literally, I suppose)...

A 2007 Norge (from the factory) does not have the access hole in the plastic to the oil port, nor does it have the pull-out dipstick (again, unless modified). It would be worth your while to add these. They are present 2008 and on. The kit is available, containing dipstick, new style plug that it slides into, and rubber trim plug that covers the access port you'll drill. A template shows where to make the cut using a hole saw; remember to use masking tape over the cut area and to do a quick dress-up with a file to smooth the edges of the new hole.

If you have the access port in the plastic and have the pull-out dipstick, here are some tips. All of this assumes you are actually using the center stand.

- While the oil is draining, pull out the dipstick, and grab a medium length wobble socket extension, a 1" socket, and the appropriate socket wrench. Reaching through the access port, place the socket on the black plug that the dipstick slides into; you'll be removing it. The wobble end will help the socket stay aligned even though the port means you're coming in at a bit of an odd angle.

- After the oil has drained, put the drain plug back in before you lose it (or forget). Remove the old oil filter - it's easiest with an appropriate thin-wall (metal) filter cap wrench. Take the filter type you like (I use Mobil1 M1-102 on my Norge) with you to the store when buying the cap wrench, and their fit is often a bit off. Once again, put the new filter on while you're there, before you forget.

- Now, get a long flexible neck funnel (I use a metal one of the kind sometimes used for transmission fluids). The metal ones are nice because once you have them in place and bent the right way, they'll mostly stay where you put them. NOTE THAT I HAVE NOT REMOVED ANY PLASTIC AT THIS POINT! I place the funnel downwards next to the left valve cover, NOT through the access port. A bit of bending, and this now stays in place vertically.

- Here's a secret of the Guzzinati: Before you start all this, place the CLOSED bottle(s) of oil in a sink full of hot water, with an old cloth nearby. When you are ready to pour the oil in the engine, it will be warm and ready to flow more quickly. Wipe the bottle down so you aren't dripping water in with the oil. Be patient while the oil drains down through the funnel; this will never be as quick as pouring oil into a car engine.

- Once the appropriate amount of oil has been added (somewhere between 3.5 and 3.8 litres depending on the idiosyncrasies of your bike), allow the funnel to drain thoroughly and then pull it out and place it in the catch bucket. What do you mean, you don't have a catch bucket?!?

- Another secret of the Guzzinati: remember that plug that the dipstick slides into? Grab it, check the o-ring for damage, and then slide it onto the dipstick. Yes, BEFORE you try placing it back into the engine. Don't slide it all the way up, just let it slide loosely. Using the dipstick to guide it through the access port and to the location on the motor, allow it to slide down the dipstick into where it will be replaced. Now, DON'T reach for the socket yet. Using one hand, pull the plastic away from the engine down by the header pipe, below the access port. With two fingers from the other hand, gently reach in and finger-tighten the plug into the threads. Don't be surprised if you have to try this a couple times to get the hang of starting these threads without the plug falling out of the hole.

- Once the plug is caught properly on the threads, you can reach though the access port with the wobble extension and socket, and tighten the plug down. Remember, this is a plastic plug in a metal hole - don't go crazy tightening it! Finally, return the dipstick to its place.

- Final secret of the Guzzinati: use aluminum (aluminium for our British friends) foil to create drainage paths for the oil when draining transmission or final drive oils. If you don't, there is virtually no way to avoid getting oil all over the exhaust and center stand (transmission) or rear wheel and brake (CARC). You may still get some spills, but this will at least greatly reduce the mess.

Ok that was pretty awesome advice! man I love this site....this thread makes me want to go find a Norge and try your advise.
I do have a buddy that is seriously shopping for a Norge if anyone happens to know of one?


Welcome to the site...Many here live for that hell which you speak of... Here's how Randy changes his oil ....lol

[n9iz]

To answer Huzo's question... Oh ya it's red!  First bike I've owned that wasn't black.

Jeff

[ITSec]

IT sec has held your hand beautifully mate, and if you follow what he says you'll have no trouble at all. My Norge has nearly 100,000 km so for me that's 10 oil changes. Reading his post I could close my eyes and swear he was doing mine.

I promise that if you pay for me to come to Australia, I'll change the oil on your Norge... 

[Huzo]

I promise that if you pay for me to come to Australia, I'll change the oil on your Norge... 

Well no good at the moment, my bike's in Europe, but how 'bout I come and ride your red Norge in the States and you come and ride my red Norge in Oz !

[twowings]

"Ok that was pretty awesome advice! man I love this site....this thread makes me want to go find a Norge and try your advise.
I do have a buddy that is seriously shopping for a Norge if anyone happens to know of one?"

There are 7 1200 GTs on Cycle Trader as of now....probably more 8Vers on there if he wants the latest and greatest...

[ITSec]

Well no good at the moment, my bike's in Europe, but how 'bout I come and ride your red Norge in the States and you come and ride my red Norge in Oz !

If you can find a red Norge in my garage, you can ride it all you want - mine is silver! 

[i HONK]

My red Norge is back together and I have over 500 miles on it since I changed the oil. Last winter I replaced a leaking front fork oil seal on the left fork, now I'm doing the right side............... ..will I ever learn to do both at the same time? Anyway at 87,000 miles she is running great! Send warm weather to upper Michigan soon!
Randy Peterson