Eldorado Exhaust Question

[Kiwi_Roy]

The fine thread in the cylinder head of my project is completely stripped

When I put it together the nut's with locknuts were out of stock besides I think the threads were too far gone so I wired them in place.
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_109&products_id=4499
Has anyone converted the heads with studs like the later models to take the flange type connection?
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=3215

[cwiseman]

Yes
My first eldo had flange exhaust. It was like that when I bought it.
My current Eldo I wired and been working fine since

[rodekyll]

Dunno.  Back in the day I had heads sleeved and also welded up and recut.  I doubt anyone does that anymore.  But it's one reason I won't have another engine from that era.  It's a completely stupid design.  Even BMW did the same stupid thing better.

[Tom H]

I think that Harpers and MG Cycle had a weld in thread repair at one time, couldn't find it today.

Another option if the threads are still there in the head, but won't hold with the stock brass style nut, is to use a socket or pipe that you can hammer into the inside of the exhaust nut to expand it. Be careful, don't overdo it. You can always make it larger, but not smaller.
If you try this, the nut will no longer work for the stock sized threads in another head. If done right, you'll custom fit the nut to that head and will cut a tiny bit of a deeper thread in the head. The steel nut with the lock ring might be able to be expanded, but I couldn't do it.
Or a good machine shop should be able to weld the head and cut new threads.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[Hahnda]

I have had threaded inserts welded in on a few heads by Competition Cycle here in WI. They make the inserts themselves I think and want you to send the nut with the head to ensure a good fit.

No website, need to call.
Competition Cycle
5081 North 124th Street
Butler, WI 53007
(262) 373-1122

[harrytief]

K Roy, Cwiseman...pics of how you wired the nuts in place...please.
Harry

[normzone]

Dunno.  Back in the day I had heads sleeved...   

Yeah, I've been down that road and it was not a long-lived solution

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Going to heads with studs opens a new can of worms if you intend on keeping the Loop headpipes.

That "stupid design" has worked perfectly fine on my '69 Ambo for the last 47 years and 109k miles.

[Idontwantapickle]

Go with the Competition Cycle fix of having a sleeve welded in. I have seen dozens of those properly done and it will not fail. The hassle of creating head pipes would be far more trouble than it is worth. Have it fixed and use the right nut. Mine aren't even wired, just tightened properly.  It might be a good idea to wire them if you are concerned about it. That's some inexpensive peace of mind.
Hunter

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

In addition to the above: use headpipe-to-frame clamps/straps:



to help prevent movement of the headpipes, which leads to the nuts loosening. And, IMO, mufflers with a crossover like the original ones, also help because they're not back waggling back and forth as much as mufflers without a crossover.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Thanks for the ideas guys
I have seen the headpipe clamps on several Loops , i will order a pair of those. In the meantime I have a hose clamp with a spacer between the headpipe and frame rail, it certainly made an
improvement.
I can see the weld in threads being a final solution but I really don't want to have to pull the heads, I will try a couple of ideas first.


I could always go this way

The owner told me it had stood up for 10,000 miles

[Tom H]

Try expanding the exhaust nut just a touch. It has worked for me.

Good luck,
Tom