2009 Norge starter solenoid?

[bratman2]

A no start problem has surfaced on my 2009 Norge. First, let me say I have already done the Startus Interruptus bypass a couple of years ago. It started occasionally blow the 15 amp inline fuse for Startus Interruptus earlier this year. I read were a 20 amp fuse could be used in it's place. That worked fine for a couple of months. Then it started blowing the fuse again. I replaced the original battery with a brand new Yusa YTX20 because the battery was showing okay but not outstanding in retained voltage if the bike sat for a week or two. Worked fine with no troubles for another couple of months only to return!. The Yusa showed 13.2v from a top off charge a week ago when I had time to work on it. Blew the fuse yesterday and still showed 13.2v.  With a small jump pack battery connected to the Yusa the bike fires right up. When the fuse does blow I get a audible thunk and faint pop a 1/4 second or so later, the pop being the fuse blowing. I am thinking it may be a sticky Solenoid. I have cleaned all battery connections, even though they were clean and greased. Checked, cleaned and tightened the grounds by the starter, which looked fine before I touched them. What do some of the long time Guzzi experts think? Pull starter and have it cleaned, regreased maybe? I only have 14.4k miles on the bike, purchased new as a leftover.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Not sure what's going on but if the solenoid sticks so the contacts are unable to close it pulls about 45 Amps, the fuse will blow in about 1/2 second.

Perhaps it's not closing the contacts quick enough.
Check the main terminals for tightness
Clean and grease the battery terminals

Can't hurt to pull the starter apart.

[ITSec]

Given your description, I would have the starter and solenoid tested and (if necessary) serviced. When my starter failed, it was a catastrophic failure of the solenoid that led to enough other problems that I simply replaced the starter with one available on Amazon. See https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7WQOWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need one.

[rodekyll]

I've had two solenoid failures in the reduction type (valeo) starters in two years.  I've disassembled and cleaned them, mixed and matched parts, and paid special attention to the contacts with no joy.  The good news is that they come apart quickly.

[bratman2]

Thanks so much for the replies. I am working 12 hour night shift so my question went back couple of pages before I got a chance to check it. Been a tough couple of nights that actually turned into nearly 13 hour nights plus having to get up an hour early to watch to grandchildren until my daughter got off work. I intend to jump back on it tomorrow morning . I will check the connections on the starter itself. The battery connections were already greased but I have not regreased them after this last cleaning, they were in very good shape. If the connections check out I will check local for a starter rebuilder that can disassemble the starter or purchase the one of Amazon. That is a pretty good price and very well could end up the cheaper option. Bike has been stone reliable up until now. I did order a battery load tester as it seems to be a pretty good tool to have around anyways. Though I doubt the battery is bad.

[Kiwi_Roy]

When the fuse does blow I get a audible thunk and faint pop a 1/4 second or so later, the pop being the fuse blowing. I am thinking it may be a sticky Solenoid. I have cleaned all battery connections, even though they were clean and greased. 

This tells me the main contact is not closing or at least not getting 12 Volts to the load side of the solenoid (lets call that terminal B).

There are two coils in the solenoid.
When the start relay applies +12Volts to the spade connector 10 Amps flows through the first coil to chassis.
At the same time 40 Amps flows through the second coil to the large output terminal B which is effectively shorted to the chassis through the starter motor.
The combined strength of these 2 coils working together pulls the starter into mesh, this is the thunk you hear.
At the end of travel the solenoid closes together the main contacts, this puts +12 Volts from terminal A through the contacts to the large terminal B. So now the 40 Amp coil has +12 Volts on both ends and it's current drops to zero.

So what's going wrong with yours?
Either you don't have +12 Volts on terminal A 
OR
the contact is not closing for some reason
       May be sticking
       May be prevented from traveling for some other reason
Pull it apart and see what you can see

[bratman2]

Yes, kind of like it is taking a fraction of a second too long to pull those two connections together. May give it a try. Wouldn't be surprised if the solenoid just needed a good cleaning and light greasing. I don't know about my ability to get it back together. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

Just draw pictures, take sketches

[bratman2]

Flushed body out with degreaser and wiped until paper towels came out clean. Wiped magnets off with a clean dry towel. Cleaned and lightly lubed solenoid, gears inside starter and main shaft with the 9 tooth sprocket. Amazingly it fired right up when installed and I tried it twice. Really didn't see anything that stuck out but it did spin easier after I finished. Didn't really take too long either. Well, my lower fairing is still off.

Thanks guys, especially Kiwi Roy!