Author Topic: ’13 Norge, major oil leak (Read 5910 times)

Edo · « **on:** August 11, 2016, 05:50:48 PM »

While riding the other day, red triangle and oil can comes on. Can’t stop where I am and have to drive another half mile to get off road. Smoke is coming off the exhaust pipes from the oil running down from somewhere on top of the engine, up high. I have no clue what it could be. Oil all over the place.
So far today, I have managed to pull off some of the bodywork (a saga for another time) and have the fuel tank propped up with a 2x4. I will need to disconnect the fuel line to the tank at that spiffy connector. However, I am reluctant to start the motor and let the fuel run out to releive the pressure since I may not have oil pressure or oil feed.
Suggestions are welcome.

Once I get a little further, I’ll be asking for more help in determining what the heck is causing the leak and if the engine is wrecked.

lucian · « **Reply #1 on:** August 11, 2016, 05:58:54 PM »

Check the banjo fittings on the oil cooling lines to the cylinder heads. easiest to lift the tank on my griso, not so sure on your norge.

guzzisteve · « **Reply #2 on:** August 11, 2016, 06:11:00 PM »

Unsure about starting motor! You can take injectors off intake manifold and pop them out of the socket to the line, this also works.

Edo · « **Reply #3 on:** August 11, 2016, 06:50:33 PM »

You can take injectors off intake manifold......
OK, remove the bolt and pull off (?)

and pop them out of the socket to the line, this also works......
Uh, I'll have to look that up. But then I could shoot the fuel into a container?

Gliderjohn · « **Reply #4 on:** August 11, 2016, 06:52:59 PM »

My 2011 did the same thing and it was the banjo fittings on the oil lines at the heads.
GliderJohn

lucian · « **Reply #5 on:** August 11, 2016, 07:01:34 PM »

Edo, you can just unplug the electrical connection to the fuel pump on the right side under the tank. turn on ignition and crank it over, it likely will not fire and if it does the lube oil circuit is separate from the cooling circuit any how, it has two oil pumps and as long as you still have oil in the motor you will be fine. You may be able to get a wrench on the banjo fittings with the tank just elevated and not need to unhook it also.

rodekyll · « **Reply #6 on:** August 11, 2016, 07:06:47 PM »

Or you could disconnect the trigger wires to the injectors.

Edo · « **Reply #7 on:** August 11, 2016, 07:19:42 PM »

Thanks Lucian, I still have to take the tank off to clean up the mess. While there, might gp ahead and replace fuel and air filters. Does the 2013 Norge have a plastic fuel filter?
Maybe I will try to crank it.

I'll go out to the garage now and see if I can reach the banjo bolts.

Edo · « **Reply #8 on:** August 11, 2016, 07:35:11 PM »

Tightened bajo bolt about 120 degrees. Good call Gliderjohn.

lucian · « **Reply #9 on:** August 11, 2016, 07:52:01 PM »

Not sure if your fuel filter is plastic or metal ,but they are inside the tank and should not need to be replaced for 100,000 miles if you feed it clean fuel, avoid rusty gas cans. Don't forget to top off your 10-60.

Edo · « **Reply #10 on:** August 11, 2016, 08:19:32 PM »

Good news, crossed the fuel filter off the list.

Edo · « **Reply #11 on:** August 12, 2016, 12:16:27 PM »

Well, got the tank off in just two days, two hours of that for the fuel quick disconnect. Got to use both hands by wedging the 2x4 that was holding up the tank against the red plastic fitting. That way I did not have to hold it when diconnecting.
Now to get the airbox out of the way.

Every time I take something off (the bike) I find more oil.

lucian · « **Reply #12 on:** August 12, 2016, 01:05:17 PM »

I like using MC chain cleaner for cleaning up such messes, cuts grease and oil great and wont hurt rubber or plastic bits. Any bike shop should have it that sells chain drive bikes. Great for getting in between the cooling fins and such where oil likes to hide and weep out later . Comes in a spray can. Sounds like you and your norge are getting to know each other better!

Edo · « **Reply #13 on:** August 12, 2016, 04:02:09 PM »

Thanks foR the tip on chain cleaner. I was just going to use SimpleGreen, but wasn't real enthusiastic about it.

"Sounds like you and your norge are getting to know each other better! ........."

Had to happen sooner or later. Pulled the airbox off today, don't think I will ever get it back on.

lucian · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2016, 04:15:54 PM »

Here is a link for the norge service manual if you don't already have it. Has some exploded views that may be useful. Air box is page 344 body work.

http://www.guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1200/Norge1200GT8V_2011Atelier(GB).pdf

Edo · « **Reply #15 on:** August 13, 2016, 08:38:30 AM »

Thanks, got it. Had it on my iPad while working on it.

mojohand · « **Reply #16 on:** August 13, 2016, 03:00:07 PM »

sounds like the dreaded oil pressure sensor switch gasket failing. Happened twice on my 2012 Norge.

twhitaker · « **Reply #17 on:** August 14, 2016, 07:13:38 AM »

Quote from: mojohand on August 13, 2016, 03:00:07 PM

sounds like the dreaded oil pressure sensor switch gasket failing. Happened twice on my 2012 Norge.

At the very minimum, now would be a good time to check this out. Since you will be pulling the alternator, you might also replace its belt. You don't want to figure out how to replace it on the road, in the dark, in the rain.

Edo · « **Reply #18 on:** August 14, 2016, 03:31:34 PM »

I will replace the oil pressure sensor gasket, but first I have to figure out how to disconnect the connector.

Why will I be pulling apart the alternator?

rodekyll · « **Reply #19 on:** August 14, 2016, 04:34:31 PM »

Not pulling apart the alternator -- removing it to access the sensor.

Edo · « **Reply #20 on:** August 14, 2016, 06:46:46 PM »

So that sensor in between the cylinders just behind the alternator isn't for the oil pressure?

rodekyll · « **Reply #21 on:** August 14, 2016, 07:43:39 PM »

I was just explaining what he meant. I don't know why.

twhitaker · « **Reply #22 on:** August 14, 2016, 07:46:09 PM »

After reading, rereading, and again rereading the posts in this thread I can only guess where you got the hint the oil pressure sensor was not. It IS the oil pressure sensor. I only suggested 'while you're in there' take a look at the alternator belt. Do or do not. There is no try.

lucian · « **Reply #23 on:** August 14, 2016, 08:05:58 PM »

I think I would take one thing t a time. You determined that the banjo fitting was loose, isn't it likely that this was your leak? Now that you've tightened it I would set the tank back on ,leaving it blocked up, plug it in and start her up , if the sensor gasket is leaking you will see it, if not your good to go.

Edo · « **Reply #24 on:** August 14, 2016, 08:40:13 PM »

Got it. Thank you gentlemen.

MGrego · « **Reply #25 on:** August 16, 2016, 08:12:22 PM »

If your oil pressure sensor failed that would explain the immediate red warning triangle on the dash as well the oil leak from the top of the motor. If you have the tank and air box out you should probably replace the sensor, they are inexpensive and easy to replace. Failed OEM sensors are pretty well documented on wild guzzi as a common occurence. By the way, you don't have to remove the alternator to replace it. The part number is in a recent thread regarding oil pressure sensors --

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Author Topic: ’13 Norge, major oil leak (Read 5910 times)