New Moto Guzzi Door Mats Available Now
12-14 V7 1TB 5 speed gearbox, original map = 3523V702, updated map = 352BV738The factory updated map helped w/cold starts, you could go off riding before 2min was up. Some say it helped in other areas also.Never saw a mention on mileage of service & what was performed, or if it has ever been serviced.
Can anyone give me a quick run down on what the new mapping will most likely do? I'm fairly certain my bike currently has the original factory map. I'm just curious as to what it tweaks to help performance, starting, idling, etc.
I lived with the original map for a couple of years and more than half of the 12.5k miles on my V7 right now. The new map did VERY LITTLE (maybe even nothing).Cold running is still a problem from the second it tries to enter closed loop for the first few minutes until the heads/combustion chambers start to come up to temperature.As a matter of fact I thought of the OP today when I started the bike and realized I was running late for a business meeting.I tried to pull away after only maybe 20 seconds and the bike stalled (predictably).But then when I went to restart it, the first attempt failed (which almost NEVER happens on my bike). Then the second attempt failed too.Third attempt (after cycling ignition and waiting a few seconds) let it start but it hunted more violently than ever before.My SWAG is the failed starting attempts led to minor flooding, which made it hard to start, and once it did start gave the now warmed 02 sensors (thanks to the heaters) absolute fits as the ECM tried to start the feedback loop right away.I still rode off after only a minute or so of warmup, sooner than I should have (see that being late thing) and it surged and bucked like it has never done before.Minutes later it was absolutely fine as usual.
The end of your post sounds like my problem every day. As of its flooding out.
How rushed are you when you leave in the morning?Do you:1. Turn ignition key on.2. Let fuel pump run/instrument cluster initialize3. LEAVE THE THROTTLE ALONE.4. Hit starter and continue to leave the throttle alone for a minute or so as it warms up?That's my usual routine, an 99% of the time there's no problem, unless I start touching the throttle and try to put it in gear/pull away.If you're doing all that and it seems like it is flooding I'd be very tempted to check the basics as I mentioned earlier (spark plug and wire condition, valve adjustment, maybe even throttle cable adjustment if it seems tight, the condition of the air filter etc.).IF it's still not right - try a Beetle map.
Just a thought.As mentioned before in this thread, have you checked the air cleaner? Could it be soaked with oil? I don't know how hard it is to check, but it might be worth checking?Good luck!!!!Tom
Can anyone give me a quick run down on what the new mapping will most likely do?
I decided to change oil and filter while it's up on the blocks before I put everything back together. Should I add the full 2 liters since the stick was reading 1/4 inch above? Also, since this bike isn't starting well is there an estimate of where the dips tick should read without the bike being run?
Do NOT add the two full liters. Put in 1 1/2, then run it. Let it settle then check the level. Top it off until it's in the middle of the high/low on the stick.
If the bike won't fire, is there a spot on the stick I should be at with the engine cold?
Cranking it will fill the oil lines and filter, so half way should still be good. I keep my level there, and I still wipe out the air box every once in a while. But I rev the hell outta mine. Try some SeaFoam in the gas in case your injectors are clogged?
I havent tried an additive yet. Also, will the GuzziDiag give readings if something is wrong or just remap?
GuzziDiag or any scan tool only tell you;1. If there is a fault that the ECM recognizes because the value of the circuit is so far out of wack that it sets a code. And then there is normally a check engine light to have earned you that you need to check the code.Or2. Maybe you can catch an obvious sensor value that's just a bit out of range, like an ambient temperature rating 20�F higher than actual temp or something like that.As for the hose clamps, bad news. They're "crimped" meaning they are use once, cut off (by sniping the crimp itself) and throw away.
After numerous starting attempts I do get a check engine light. How do I read the code it's producing?
GuzziDiag will help you out there and that might give you a clue as to what is happening. But I assume it goes away shortly after startup, so it may not even be stored when it's not present, depends on the code and how Guzzi programmed the self-diagnosis memory functions.
Here's an easy question amidst all the others. How do you guys get those darn hose clamps off!?!
