Thanks for the replies!
FotoGuzzi and Tom – Duh… brilliant! Because I couldn’t feel any mashing putting the headlight back in, I was so focused on what could be bumped to cause a complete blackout that I ignored the possible bumpor (headlight connector).
Kiwi Roy – Can’t sell it cheap. I bought it with chrome already added to the oil. Mark Etheridge rebuilt engine from the ground up and went thru the tranny/final drive components. Awesome job and well worth it.
Kiwi Roy and Charlie – I suspected loose connections and went through each one. The bullet connectors all seemed tight to the wires and into the busses, no corrosion but used electrical grease on re-attachment. The fuses were the same, clean and corrosion free, except I could spin a couple fairly easily by hand. I wasn’t too concerned as these were either connecting nothing or were circuits that seemed to feed off the main and could not by themselves cause the total blackout. I could not see well behind the fuse panel and busses, and didn’t want to make a simple problem worse. One thing did surprise me. I let go of the red main coming into the top of the fuse panel while cleaning it and it touched the headlight bucket. Snap, crackle, pop! No smoke got out of wire anywhere (I hope). Based on the wiring diagram, I thought with the ignition off, there couldn’t be any power to stuff in the headlight bucket. Still don’t know how, but Hello 40A fuse!
Joe – I believe the headlamp is an H-4, it does seem a little deep and I can still see the brass tabs with the connector fully engaged. As Charlie suggested, there may be a more shallow bulb in the very near future. I could ditch the connector, bend the tabs, and wire in single connectors, but that is a bit too tacky at this point…
normzone – Also a great idea I hadn’t considered. This may come in handy if I really have to dig deeper into the connections before replacing everything. I happen to have a Harbor Fright laser temp gun that might make it even easier and less painful.
Okay. The headlight screw needs to go in another quarter inch to be fully seated. Based on all your suggestions, the plan is:
remove the headlight and reattach the retaining ring, running the screw in fully
with panel lights on, wiggle wires, connectors and fuse
if lights go out, affect any repairs
using a clean wadded up rag, gently press the fuse panel where the headlight could be hitting
if lights go out, get a more shallow bulb, or perhaps trim the tabs on the existing bulb so connector
fully seats as a test
clean, apply electrical grease to all fuse connections
if none of this works, plan B is Greg Bender’s website, Waytek mod, etc.
install 40A fuse from battery
Thanks for the help, all!! I’ll post again when I’m done.
The horn works now! I don’t use it, but required by CA law…