Author Topic: v7 sport "fence post" rebuild (Read 114312 times)

siabeid · « **Reply #90 on:** October 08, 2017, 08:33:11 PM »

Hello all,

Yes. No progress during riding season. I did get a few nice trips in this year. That is coming to an end, though. I'll probably get back to it in November. I got the wheels straightened by Buchanans and put some Roadriders on them. I am anxious to get the major components into the frame so it will look like a motorcycle again, instead of a pile of parts. Thanks for all of the encouragement over the past year.

Tom H · « **Reply #91 on:** October 09, 2017, 04:50:47 PM »

Looking forward to pics of the completed bike!!

Tom

Tom · « **Reply #92 on:** October 09, 2017, 06:02:39 PM »

Me too!

siabeid · « **Reply #93 on:** December 03, 2017, 07:55:48 PM »

It is starting to go back together! I dragged everything out of the corner and got the frame onto the lift table. It is amazing how many details you forget when you walk away from a project for awhile. I'm glad I found my notepad! I cleaned up the fender and brake plates and got the front end and wheel assembly reattached. I am not going for a super polished look. I mainly want it to look pretty original. NAPA aluminum brightener has been working great on the aluminum parts and bronze wool really cleans up the chrome parts nicely. I'm really surprised how good the old thing is cleaning up. Today I got the engine and trans assembly and centerstand reattached in the frame and it is starting to resemble a motorcycle. I started cleaning up the brake and shift rods so I can get them in before the swing arm. They are really a mess. I sure hope I can remember how all of that goes back together. They are pretty complicated compared to my other Tontis, so I can't look at the T3 or LM3 for guidance.
I probably won't be able to do a whole lot until after Christmas. I hope to get at least one more weekend day in anyway. I'll try to get some pics up next time.

Lannis · « **Reply #94 on:** December 03, 2017, 08:26:55 PM »

Quote from: siabeid on December 03, 2017, 07:55:48 PM

I hope to get at least one more weekend day in anyway. I'll try to get some pics up next time.

We'll be waiting! This is a really encouraging and interesting thread.

Lannis

SED · « **Reply #95 on:** December 05, 2017, 08:47:51 PM »

Quote from: siabeid on December 03, 2017, 07:55:48 PM

It is starting to go back together!

Great - looking forward to the pics!

Tom · « **Reply #96 on:** December 06, 2017, 11:43:35 AM »

:1: You get snow yet? You're in Colville???

siabeid · « **Reply #97 on:** December 09, 2017, 08:07:15 PM »

You get snow yet? You're in Colville?

Between Kettle and Rice. Higher elevation. We have a few inches, but the valley floors are still clear. We had about 18" on the ground, but it got pretty warm around Thanksgiving and most of it melted. It cooled off again, but there hasn't been any precipitation since. If I lived in the valley, I could still ride.

Tom · « **Reply #98 on:** December 11, 2017, 12:05:09 PM »

If the National rally takes place in the Seattle are, I might be leaving the SP back up in Sagle. We'll have to see. Might be a good time to "launch" your bike for it's first public showing.

They're looking at a June date.... I dunno.

siabeid · « **Reply #99 on:** January 22, 2018, 11:43:08 AM »

I finally got in a good weekend of work on the Sport. Reinstalled the u joint and swing arm. For some reason it did not want to fit back in. Then after quite a bit of fiddling and a little bit of swearing it dropped right in. I got the brake and shift rods cleaned up and reinstalled, then the connector piece between the tranny and frame. Then it was time to get to the last sub assemblies that I had been dreading. The rear drive and the rear brake. The rear brake was (and still is) frozen solid, and the rear drive had quite a bit of water come out when I initially drained it. I completely disassembled it and was pleasantly surprised to find the bearings OK. The ring and pinion gears looked really good, but had a small amount of rust on them in spots. That cleaned off really easily on the wire wheel. My biggest source of concern was a row of very bad pitting on the splined flange that the ring gear attaches to. Clearly caused by sitting with the moisture in it. It was in the area where the big bearing and seal go. I was very afraid that the pitting was in the sealing area. After much work with the emery cloth I got the pits about 2/3 removed. I studied and measured and studied some more and I believe that the pitting is in the area between the bearing and the sealing surface, not actually on the sealing surface. I put it back together and will see what happens. If it leaks, I will find out if I am right or wrong and maybe have to take it back apart and replace that part with an expensive new one. The housing had some weird black over spray on it as well as some really bad staining. The seals were shot and it had obviously been leaking a lot before the bike quit running. I could not get it to clean up without sending it off somewhere, so it got a paint job. The drive gears themselves look like they don't have many miles on them. The teeth are very nice and they mesh together very smoothly. I removed as much off of the rear brake assy as I could, and started hosing it down with Moov-it. Hopefully after a week or so, I will be able to get it apart.The under seat light and the brake switch light switch looked terrible. I figured that they would both go into the trash can, but after a good cleaning and checking with a meter they seemed to be okay. The light bulb in the underseat light even still works. It is funny working on this thing. Some stuff is complete junk, some of it is OK, and some is in really good condition.
Next session, I hope to get the rear brake squared away and it all reassembled so that it is standing on its own 2 wheels. I have all the new cables ordered and Larry of Meticulous Motorcycle Painting in Sandpoint, ID says he will be ready to turn the tank and tool boxes green in the next couple of weeks. Let's see if I can remember how to send pictures.

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Tom · « **Reply #100 on:** January 22, 2018, 12:36:51 PM »

Good thing that you're able to revive the under seat light. It's worth the effort to have the original one working. Is Larry the bike shop in downtown Sandpoint across from the surplus store?

siabeid · « **Reply #101 on:** January 22, 2018, 01:19:15 PM »

No. He works out of an auto body shop. He used to be in Spokane, but moved to Sandpoint a few years ago.

siabeid · « **Reply #102 on:** January 22, 2018, 01:40:25 PM »

image ru

where to upload images

Here are a few pics. I screwed up sending them the first time.

v7john · « **Reply #103 on:** January 22, 2018, 02:03:00 PM »

I've had problems with the surface that large oil seal runs on being pitted more than once. Sometimes a good clean-up has been enough. Once I filled the pits with plastic metal which worked. Originally the seal was a single lipped type and the pits tend to be just where it needs to seat. I've found that using a double lipped seal as a replacement helps to move the surface the seal runs on just enough to be able to get away with it.

https://racingrhino.wordpress.com/2015/03/21/replacing-the-drivebox-oil-seal-21-mar-2015/

siabeid · « **Reply #104 on:** January 22, 2018, 02:34:36 PM »

Thanks for the tip and the link to your projects. The new seal I used was the double lipped type, so I have my fingers crossed.

canuck750 · « **Reply #105 on:** January 22, 2018, 04:05:59 PM »

Looking great!

Antietam Classic Cycle · « **Reply #106 on:** January 22, 2018, 04:26:18 PM »

You might try putting the rear brake backing plate in the oven and heating it to ~ 300* F.

Huzo · « **Reply #107 on:** January 22, 2018, 09:54:09 PM »

These are the best threads bar none !

Tom · « **Reply #108 on:** January 23, 2018, 11:40:50 AM »

So you made a kitchen in the garage?

or you live alone and the kitchen is the bike garage?

The bike is looking good.

Tom H · « **Reply #109 on:** January 23, 2018, 03:01:28 PM »

WOW!!!!!

Tom

siabeid · « **Reply #110 on:** January 23, 2018, 03:45:41 PM »

Quote from: Tom on January 23, 2018, 11:40:50 AM

So you made a kitchen in the garage? or you live alone and the kitchen is the bike garage? The bike is looking good.

Ha Ha. I am a custom home builder and also do remodels. All of the cabinets in my shop have been pulled out of various remodel jobs that I have doneover the years. Some of them are those cool 1950 metal cabinets. A couple of years ago I did a kitchen remodel for a farmer. He kept his old cabinets for his shop, but he did give me a KZ1000 that had been sitting in his garage for 10 years. That will be a project for another winter.

Tom · « **Reply #111 on:** January 23, 2018, 05:33:48 PM »

Bucky · « **Reply #112 on:** January 25, 2018, 11:05:15 AM »

Noob lurker here.

Outstanding resurrection Si.
I have enough bike mechanic knowledge to get myself in trouble.
This thread is dangerous for me, as I can see great results with an obviously competent mechanic, and I would overstep my ability and take one something way over my head.

Looking forward to the end product.
Nice work!!

siabeid · « **Reply #113 on:** January 29, 2018, 10:46:34 AM »

I made some good progress this weekend. After soaking the brake housing in Moov-it all week, tapping and working it for a few minutes every night after work, I managed to get all of the brake components out. The shoes appear to be in good shape, so I just cleaned them up good with some sand paper and brake cleaner. The holes that fit over the pins took a lot of work to finally move nice and smoothly, but a 1/2" diameter brass "bottle brush" did the trick eventually. I cleaned up the pins with emery cloth and polished them. The rotating pins that engage the shoes like wise needed a good polishing. After several goings over with napa aluminum brightener, a scotch pad, and some bronze wool the brake housing was starting to look pretty good. A little bit of aluminum polish and a soft rag got it looking pretty respectable. A little bit of Napa Syl-Glide on all the moving parts and it was ready for the brake shoes. The only problem was how to stretch those brake shoe springs??!!? Finally I dug out my mcperson strut spring compressors and after a little re arranging of parts, it pushed the shoes right apart and on they went. I reinstalled the inner fender, then the brake assembly and rear wheel. Then the shocks. Got the brake foot lever on and the brake rod cleaned up and installed and the brakes adjusted. I can not remember for the life of me how the brake light switch was attached. A good reason to take lots of pictures when disassembling. Something I clearly didn't do enough of. Anyway, it looks like a motorcycle again! Those new Ikons sure are pretty!

Tom · « **Reply #114 on:** January 29, 2018, 11:43:26 AM »

Good work

A suggestion, next time try putting the springs on last after fitting the brake shoes on. Locking pliers or a brake shoe pliers to stretch out the springs after fitting one end in.

SED · « **Reply #115 on:** February 21, 2018, 11:31:19 PM »

It looks great Si! Beautiful. Congrats. I love the use of the Macpherson spring compressor - I'm doing that next time!

siabeid · « **Reply #116 on:** March 05, 2018, 07:22:43 PM »

pic upload

I haven't posted for awhile, but have gotten quite a bit done in the last 4 or 5 weeks. The rear drive went back together nicely and then it was time for the shocks and rear wheel, rear fender and seat. It was standing up on its own! I got the carbs apart and finally unboxed my Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner that had been sitting on the shelf for a year or so. The carbs came apart easily, but they had a lot of built up residue stuck to the insides. I put a 50/50 mixture of Purple Power and water in the ultrasonic cleaner and all of the parts from the carb except the float and float valve. 6 minutes with the ultra sound and heat and they were cleaned up. I rinsed with water and scraped a couple of tough spots with a dental pick and sprayed all passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air and put in a new float and float valve and put the carb back together. Repeat with the other side. It was very impressive how well the ultrasonic cleaner worked. Hopefully, the bug nests that were in the carb fuel strainers are the last of the bug nests that need to be dug out. I have found bug nests on or in every component of the bike that I have disassembled!
The exhaust headers and crossover were really horrible looking, but with lots of work with bronze wool, they started to look halfway decent. I got them installed and ordered a set of shark gill mufflers, but they have not arrived yet. When I found the bike, it was missing the mufflers.
I had some extra gauges and a dash from an 850t in the parts stash, as well as 2 nos pillbox switches, so got the dash and control set up installed. This bike did not have gauges or a headlight or turn signals when I found it. The only correct headlights I have seen for a v7 sport have been going for upwards of $400, so I got a new, incorrect light from MG Cycle and got it installed. I had a set of Lucas turn signals, so used them. The bike had the brackets for the rear, but not the front, so I made a pair and got the signals installed. I had planned to remove the loom on the old wiring harness, and correct what needed to be corrected, but after checking a few wires with the meter, I found that the vast majority had a lot of resistance, even with the connectors all cleaned up. So I got a new main harness for it and got it mostly installed along with the electrical components. The ignition switch that came on it was completely frozen up. I found a nos switch on ebay that had the original steering lock sliding piece, so I bought it. I installed that and hooked up a battery and nothing. This bike is a late 1973, and I have found that a wiring diagram for a 1972 v7 sport and a 1975 750s both are partially correct, so it has taken me quite a bit of studying and head scratching to get it figured out. I can't find a wiring diagram for a late 1973 or 1974 v7sport exactly. I dug out the original ignition switch and compared it to the new one and found them to look exactly the same except that the wires coming out of the new ones have the colors mixed up . I think I have figured it out now, but haven't had time to give it a try yet. I have been going very easily and slowly with the wiring, because I am nervous about hooking something up incorrectly and frying the alternator or rectifier.
Once I get the wiring sorted, about all that will be left will be to install the carbs and all of the cables and then it will be time to try starting it!

Si Abeid
Kettle Falls, WA

Tom · « **Reply #117 on:** March 05, 2018, 07:29:27 PM »

SED · « **Reply #118 on:** March 06, 2018, 11:08:37 PM »

Looks great Si! Very nice work. Love the license plate frame!

Tom H · « **Reply #119 on:** March 14, 2018, 01:24:41 AM »

Can't wait to see this labor of love finished!!

Tom

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Author Topic: v7 sport "fence post" rebuild (Read 114312 times)

canuck750