98 EV intermittant no start

[Bill N]

My 98 EV looks new and runs like new. But now it intermittently will not start. Usually after a ride where it sits for 30 minutes or so. It cranks with a strong battery and starter motor, but nothing happens. Messed with the "choke" and tried every position, finally it flooded. Waited another 30 minutes and she started instantly. Now at home she cold starts instantly. Hard to diagnose when its working. Your suggestions please.
Thanks, Bill

[Kiwi_Roy]

The spine frame bikes have been known to vapor lock when parked hot, fuel in pump turns to vapor forcing it out of the pump, pump spins but can't get a hold on the fuel to pump it through, once it does it quickly cools down and everything is back to normal. I haven't heard of it happening to an EV though, perhaps you still have winter gas that has a low vapor point.

OK, I'm full of it LOL

[fotoguzzi]

sounds just like the intermittent problems noted about Siemens relays.

Still have original relays?  get the good ones from DPGuzzi.com

[rodekyll]

Quick thing is to check the temp sensor in the RH head for a broken mount or looseness.  Next thing would be vapor lock.  The external pump cali's sometimes had fuel hoses running along hot things/sagging that promote vapor lock.  How's the venting?  Any blow or suck at the tank filler during these episodes?

[LowRyter]

next time it won't start, put some pressure on your fuel pump fuse.  Or go ahead and clean up the fuse and the mounting lug.

ohhh, don't ask me how I know or how long it took me to figure this out.   

[LowRyter]

......and you might replace that electric fuel cock.

[antmanbee]

Check your fuel and spark. Do you hear the fuel pump spin when the key is turned on? Then you will have a better idea of where the problem is.

[pehayes]

The 98EV has temp sensor in the left valve cover.
Sounds exactly like symptoms in mine.
When you turn on the key, do you hear the fuel pump prime up to pressure?  If not, replace all your relays with good ones from Pyro Dan and spray all their sockets with Caig DeOxit.

If you do hear fuel prime, check for spark.  Pull the spark plugs and ground them to the head.  Use an inductive timing light on the secondary wires to confirm you do or do not have spark impulse.  I had similar happen on my 98EV.  Turned out to be dirty contacts where the timing gear sensor was plugged into the main harness under the tank.  The timing gear sensor is just forward of the left cylinder and forward of the oil pressure sensor.  Trace the wire back to the main harness.  Unplug, clean, improve with Caig DeOxit spray.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Wayne Orwig]

98 EV is unlikely to 'vapor lock' unless the electric fuel solenoid has failed. Verify that you get a loud CLUNK from it when turned on. Also, there may be rust or gunk clogging the screen inside doing the same.
Clean BOTH timing sensors. Metal bits on them can make it hard to start.
Maybe the TPS is just far enough out of whack to screw with the mixture during startup. When did you last adjust the valves and do a tuneup?
Of course a wide or worn spark plug gap can contribute to hard starting too.

[creaky99]

My '98 did the same thing when I bought it a few years ago, started right up cold, shut it off after a ride, would not start after sitting for a while. It was the electric fuel cock, I was able to get it started by switching the key on and off until I could feel the solenoid energize, sometimes took quite a few on-off cycles to get it to work. Replaced it with a manual valve, no more problems.

[Bill N]

Keep up the posts. I'm taking notes and will go accomplish some of the suggestions that I haven't tried already.
Thanks, Bill

[yogidozer]

sounds just like the intermittent problems noted about Siemens relays.

Still have original relays?  get the good ones from DPGuzzi.com

I bet this is your problem.

[Bill N]

The  relays are from GP Guzzi. I'm not suspecting them. Fuel pump comes on like normal, builds pressure but no start. I had this problem a few years ago, I went thru everything, cleaning connections etc. Then she worked fine for a few years. I don't know what I did to fix the problem as I addressed several issues. But now...It's back as an intermittent gremlin. I'm thinking mechanical fuel cock would be the easy next step which will include looking at the fuel strainer.

[antmanbee]

You still have not said if you are getting a spark. Why look at fuel problems till you have ruled out the ignition system. Simple to test.

[Bill N]

You still have not said if you are getting a spark. Why look at fuel problems till you have ruled out the ignition system. Simple to test.

Good point. But I can't check for spark failure until the bike doesn't start again. Right now she starts the instant she rotates. Problem is I don't know when or WHERE it will fail again.
Bill

[fotoguzzi]

have you replaced the relays?

[Kiwi_Roy]

A light on the petcock fuse No 1 will let you know if the power is getting half way to the brain, now you know if problems is before or after that point.

Another small light No 2 on relay 5/87 will let you know you have power going to the ECU

Light No 3 will let you know if the Coils, injectors and pump have power.
 

Break down on the road, no worries just hot wire the petcock with 12 Volts and the bike should start, may have to hit the start relay 87 contact with 12 Volts to engage the starter then fix it when you get home.

There's a ship load of wiring that will disable the EV but no excuse for having to get a tow without trying to get going. The wiring is 20 years old, try and be ready for when it breaks, learn how to bypass stuff while you are in your comfy garage not on the side of the road.

[Zoom Zoom]

Have you removed the fuel cap when it didn't start and verify there was no vacuum?

John Henry

[Rich A]

I didn't see any mention the sidestand switch, a known problem.

Rich A

[Wayne Orwig]

I didn't see any mention the sidestand switch, a known problem.

If it was the sidestand switch, the starter wouldn't crank it over either. So it shouldn't the be sidestand switch.