How do you do gear oil change and how to inspect it.

[TimmyTheHog]

Edit: included the year and bike

2015 V7 Stone

okay...

the manual talks about how to drain/refill/inspect the engine oil and how to drain/refill/inspect final drive oil(Guzzi calls transmission)

But for the life of my first born son, I cannot find how to do ANY OF the procedure on gear box oil????

Where to inspect? How to drain? What to open?!?!!

I flipped thru the manual at least 10+ times and I just can't seem to find it....and yes I searched high & low but no one else seems to have the same problem as I am...

Any help would be highly appreciated! Pictures would help greatly too!

[fotoguzzi]

1, what bike?
2,  What to open?!?!! a beer? 

3, the drain plug is on bottom of transmission.. fill plug on right side top of tranny..  does manual give capacity? or we need to know what bike to answer that.
4, don't use gorilla force tightening the drain plug or it could strip..

[guzzisteve]

Here read this----http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_v7-ii-abs_en.pdf

[TimmyTheHog]

Oops...ya what bike would do...

2015 V7 Stone

By open I mean is there a sight hole to check the oil level?

The more I try to figure out, the more I am confused

[sign216]

This was written for the earlier (pre-2013) version, but should have a few tips.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157626993357143

[fotoguzzi]

Oops...ya what bike would do...

2015 V7 Stone

By open I mean is there a sight hole to check the oil level?

The more I try to figure out, the more I am confused

there is no sight hole, if you put in the right amount it will stay there, no need to view it thru a hole..

[TimmyTheHog]

Thanks guys for the links!

This gives me a better idea for sure...

I am still shock that my manual completely ignored the whole gearbox section...at least I know I am not going insane trying to figure if I am...

[TimmyTheHog]

Now that being said, what's the torque value for the drain plug?

If I am looking it correctly, there is a crush washer to go with it? Do I need to replace that washer every time I drain the gear box oil?

[fotoguzzi]

Now that being said, what's the torque value for the drain plug?

If I am looking it correctly, there is a crush washer to go with it? Do I need to replace that washer every time I drain the gear box oil?

snug with a short wrench, a new crush washer is your friend..

BTW, WELCOME TO WILD GUZZI FORUM..

[pete roper]

V7 or V7-II? Five speed or six speed box? Yes, it matters. It may also vary depending on your location, different parts of the world got the six speeds at different times so a year can be confusing.

Pete

[TimmyTheHog]

snug with a short wrench, a new crush washer is your friend..

BTW, WELCOME TO WILD GUZZI FORUM..

I guess basically the feeling of turn until you feel the resistance of it being hard and another 1/8 of turn?

I always has this fear of me stripping the thread...

Thx...and expects lots of noobish questions from me in the future. I am way too spoiled by the manuals made by the japs as I came off a metric cruiser :P

[TimmyTheHog]

V7 or V7-II? Five speed or six speed box? Yes, it matters. It may also vary depending on your location, different parts of the world got the six speeds at different times so a year can be confusing.

Pete

My is the 5 speed V7

It is an Canadian :)

[malik]

This stuff is in the manual, but don't fret, it doesn't jump out at you, and even when you get used to Reading guzzi's manual there's stuff that you suddenly come acros s years later.

The engine has a dipstick. Left hand side above the lower frame rail. With both wheels on the ground, unscrew it, clean it, rest it on top of it's thread, read the level. Best is mid may between the top & that line through the hashing. The drain plugs are front 19mm head with an O ring, and the rear of the crankcase: 17mm head with a crush washer. Then there's the oil filter - 13mm head - use a socket to avoid busting off the fins - with a crush washer. The manual calls for 2L, but around 1.9L will minimise the oil vapour which ends up in the airbox & contaminates the air filter & oils the manifold & the inside of the throttle bodies. If you have oil in there, mop it up , including as far down the manifold as you can get. Check the air filter is dry, or replace it. Remember to screw the dipstick back in FIRMLY.

The gearbox has a level plug on the side & a drain plug at the rear, just in front of the crossover -17mm head with a crush washer. You fill through the level plug, so it goes in better when the bike's on its side stand - it takes 1L of 80w90 mineral oil. The manual says it weeps out of the level plug hole when full (& the bike is level), but 1L is fine.

The final drive has a drain plug, a level plug & a vent plug. It takes 170ml of 85w140 MINERAL oil, not synthetic. You can fill through the level plug, or the vent plug, but the vent plug hole is small. I use a small funnel with a section of clear hose, probably about 6mm. The 170 ml will just start seeping out the level right at the last. Be careful putting these plugs back in, the alloy is pretty close to butter & it's not difficult to cross thread it, especially the drain plug - it's all too easy to get that angle wrong.

It's all easy enough, and a lot easier once you've done it a couple of times.

Enjoy,

Mal

[waxi]

The gearbox has a level plug on the side & a drain plug at the rear, just in front of the crossover -17mm head with a crush washer. You fill through the level plug, so it goes in better when the bike's on its side stand - it takes 1L of 80w90 mineral oil. The manual says it weeps out of the level plug hole when full (& the bike is level), but 1L is fine.

Please note! V7 takes 1 liter, V7 II takes only half of that (0.5L).

[Kev m]

I guess basically the feeling of turn until you feel the resistance of it being hard and another 1/8 of turn?

I always has this fear of me stripping the thread...

Wouldn't you rather a drain plug weep before you strip it?

Snug it, don't even use the handle of the ratchet, hold it closer to the head. If you've got a fresh crush washer you may feel just the slightest amount of give and additional turn. But if you think you're going to strip it STOP, then go for a short ride and check it (put the ratchet back on it and see if it budges with the same force to tighten it a little more).

Torque specs on a Guzzi (unless they're a critical engine or chassis fastener, say anything that might be bearing related) are just suggestions that should be taken with a grain of salt lets you find the one that is wrong the hard way.

Thx...and expects lots of noobish questions from me in the future. I am way too spoiled by the manuals made by the japs as I came off a metric cruiser :P

I dunno, my last 2 projects have been JAPanInc. bikes and I'm not sure I'd call them spoiled by data. 

[sign216]

Be careful putting these plugs back in, the alloy is pretty close to butter & it's not difficult to cross thread it, especially the drain plug -

Mal

The one to watch is the rear plug on the engine oil.  The hex is unusually large for the small bolt diameter, so the wrench is overly long.  This gives the wrong "feel" and it's easy to strip the soft aluminum hole.

But at least it's easy to take off the sump and insert a helicoil. 
And...then you'll buy a different drain bolt, made of aluminum, with an appropriately sized hex head.

Actually, consider just getting the new, smaller alloy drain plug now, and skip the inevitable strip, dismount, helicoil, etc...

[Triple Jim]

This thread makes me want to add some Parker Stat-O-Seals to the McMaster-Carr order I'm placing today.  They're reusable, and seal well at low torque.

[stevet]

I bought this set of Corning Pyrex graduated beakers for measuring accurate quantities of liquids.
https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Graduated-Griffin-Beaker-Assortment/dp/B004DGIITC

I've even use it to catch what drains out of the 6-speed transmission, an after-the-fact dipstick of sorts.  After emptying the old oil from the beaker I wipe it out with paper shop towels and a quick sweep with a paper towel and mineral spirits before using it with fresh fluids.

Steve.

[TimmyTheHog]

Again,

Thanks everyone for the awesome input. At least this makes this bike newbie feel a bit better 

Ya, I mean with Jap bike's manual are usually tech data galore...at least the one I owned before...

Let just say with the minimum experience of feel I have over the years and not wanting to strip anything (which I did before) , I tend to trust torque wrench more...and being as a Engineer kind of reinforced that kind of thinking LOL...

One last dumb question: For those O-rings...such as for Final Drive & Gear Box Fill holes, do you guys replace those every time you change oil? Again, I had to on my old Honda, but Guzzi makes no mention of those...

[lti_57]

Again,

Thanks everyone for the awesome input. At least this makes this bike newbie feel a bit better 

Ya, I mean with Jap bike's manual are usually tech data galore...at least the one I owned before...

Let just say with the minimum experience of feel I have over the years and not wanting to strip anything (which I did before) , I tend to trust torque wrench more...and being as a Engineer kind of reinforced that kind of thinking LOL...

One last dumb question: For those O-rings...such as for Final Drive & Gear Box Fill holes, do you guys replace those every time you change oil? Again, I had to on my old Honda, but Guzzi makes no mention of those...

Never replaced on any of my 7 Guzzi's i have owned. at least not part of a  fluid change

[malik]

Same here - they seem pretty robust - my 2010 V7C is still on the originals - the one you have to keep an eye on is that big one on the oil filter, and the one on the dipstick - that one gets a lot of use.