Author Topic: New trick for removing broken bolts (Read 4345 times)

rodekyll · « **on:** April 14, 2017, 11:02:58 AM »

I had six grade 10 bolts break just under flush at the surface, quite smoothly sheared. It was a difficult place to drill them out, and grade 10 isn't easy to put a hole in. The bolts were not bottomed out, so I figured they were loose in the bores. But how to spin them out when a reverse drill bit won't bite?

I put a tiny ball-ended burr from my dremel kit on the reversing drill motor and started grinding (against the grain of the burr). It would grab after a few seconds and start the threaded shaft out by a 1/4 turn or so. A little more grinding and a little more turn, until I was able to use the eraser end of a pencil to spin it out enough to grab with my fingers. Easy-peasy x 6. After fighting one for an hour yesterday and getting nowhere, I had all six out by this method in under 15 minutes. I think I owe myself a beer.

Antietam Classic Cycle · « **Reply #1 on:** April 14, 2017, 11:05:31 AM »

mtiberio · « **Reply #2 on:** April 14, 2017, 11:17:00 AM »

6? you owe yourself a torque wrench

boatdetective · « **Reply #3 on:** April 14, 2017, 11:35:09 AM »

I LOVE reading stories of triumph like this. Thanks for the tip.

Matteo · « **Reply #4 on:** April 14, 2017, 11:36:29 AM »

Again? Which bike?

rodekyll · « **Reply #5 on:** April 14, 2017, 11:41:45 AM »

Same-same, Matt.

sidecarnutz · « **Reply #6 on:** April 14, 2017, 11:45:46 AM »

Well played!

charlie b · « **Reply #7 on:** April 14, 2017, 03:42:06 PM »

Brilliant!

RANDM · « **Reply #8 on:** April 14, 2017, 03:50:29 PM »

Well done that man.

Maurie.

johnr · « **Reply #9 on:** April 14, 2017, 04:28:06 PM »

Quote from: RANDM on April 14, 2017, 03:50:29 PM

Well done that man.

Maurie.

:1:

Arizona Wayne · « **Reply #10 on:** April 15, 2017, 01:18:48 AM »

Yes, ingenuity and having the right stuff to pull it off.

azguzzirep · « **Reply #11 on:** April 15, 2017, 02:38:13 AM »

Can you post a pic of the bolts? Specifically the top where you did the grinding. Thx!

Muzz · « **Reply #12 on:** April 15, 2017, 02:42:53 AM »

Quote from: RANDM on April 14, 2017, 03:50:29 PM

Well done that man.

Maurie.

and I will :1: :1: that as well.

Truly inventive. I would never have thought of that myself.

Bill Hagan · « **Reply #13 on:** April 15, 2017, 06:00:17 AM »

Cool.

But it would be more helpful to me and some others if you could recreate the situation and put the vid on youtube.

That way, folks like me could tell Wayne Orwig that's what we need done. He's a visual sort of guy and gets annoyed at my use of "thingamabob" and "doohatchee with spikes," etc.

Seriously, impressive.

Bill

Northern Bill · « **Reply #14 on:** April 15, 2017, 09:15:12 AM »

I have a dremel kit but I am not sure which piece is the ball end burr. Yes, I am a bit thick at times!

Monza-jockey · « **Reply #15 on:** April 15, 2017, 01:47:30 PM »

In similar situations, Ive cut a slot across the broken end. Using either a burr or a cut-off disc. I try a screw driver first, and if that doesn't work I move up to a Vessel impact driver with a straight bit. It worked on sheared bolts and stripped out hex heads.

:Beating_A_Dead_Hors e_by_liviu

Matteo · « **Reply #16 on:** April 15, 2017, 10:21:16 PM »

Quote from: Monza-jockey on April 15, 2017, 01:47:30 PM

In similar situations, Ive cut a slot across the broken end. Using either a burr or a cut-off disc. I try a screw driver first, and if that doesn't work I move up to a Vessel impact driver with a straight bit. It worked on sheared bolts and stripped out hex heads.

:Beating_A_Dead_Hors e_by_liviu

That's how I got the ignition switch off my Jackal.

giusto · « **Reply #17 on:** April 16, 2017, 08:29:48 AM »

Quote from: Monza-jockey on April 15, 2017, 01:47:30 PM

In similar situations, Ive cut a slot across the broken end. Using either a burr or a cut-off disc. I try a screw driver first, and if that doesn't work I move up to a Vessel impact driver with a straight bit. It worked on sheared bolts and stripped out hex heads.

:Beating_A_Dead_Hors e_by_liviu

This is one of my favorites...cut the slot in the broken bolt end and get the biggest flat blade on it I can...But I like Dave's idea as you can get purchase when there is nothing to cut...maybe I'll try a combo of the two next time...ball end out enough to cut the slot then withdraw.

Thanks Dave and thanks for looking for the that bracket.

cheers

rodekyll · « **Reply #18 on:** April 16, 2017, 10:20:28 AM »

Bolts were broken flush or below flush. 6" space to work in -- used a right-angle drill motor. While I was trying revere drill bits I was cutting their shanks to shorten them up. I had to sit to the side rather than work straight on. So there was no possibility of cutting a slot without damaging something. Until I got the burr idea I was anticipating pulling the engine for the necessary access.

Mike Tashjian · « **Reply #19 on:** April 16, 2017, 05:45:36 PM »

I like the dual use for a small burr. One of the screw extractors I have uses a left handed drill similar to these which are available from many vendors. This is a short set so they are a little more versatile. They are a very hard material which will drill into any bolt with a bit of care. And if the bolt does not spin out it gives you a very good starter hole for the next size drill. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Impact-SCREW-GRIP-Double-Ended-Screw-Extractor-Set/1000065735 Mike

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Author Topic: New trick for removing broken bolts (Read 4345 times)

Bill Hagan