Convert disabled (now fixed)

[nick949]

Riding today, my Convert developed an intermittent hiccup.  The ignition stayed on, but power was briefly cut to the coils etc. On my return home, it wouldn't re-start and now there is no power at the points/coils/plugs.

I've checked the kill switch and the sidestand switch and both seem to be OK.  Is there a clutch switch on the Convert?  I have searched the cable and there doesn't seem to be one.  The wiring is mostly Greg Bender so quite new. Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks

Nick

[fotoguzzi]

there might be a clutch switch in the cable down near the floorboard on right side.

[guzzisteve]

Ignition switch  intermittent power?

[nick949]

there might be a clutch switch in the cable down near the floorboard on right side.

nope - nothing

[yogidozer]

bad ground?

[redrider90]

Other than the obvious which have checked start at the dizzy/coils and work your way backwards. Do not assume you new wiring harness does not have a defect. Have you hot wired it to see if it runs. I would use a fused line and hot wire it to ignition system.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Riding today, my Convert developed an intermittent hiccup.  The ignition stayed on, but power was briefly cut to the coils etc. On my return home, it wouldn't re-start and now there is no power at the points/coils/plugs.

I've checked the kill switch and the sidestand switch and both seem to be OK.  Is there a clutch switch on the Convert?  I have searched the cable and there doesn't seem to be one.  The wiring is mostly Greg Bender so quite new. Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks

Nick

There was a clutch switch from the factory - it activated the "neutral" light and completed a circuit to the starter relay. I've removed the sidestand switch and have K&S switchgear to eliminate any issues with the kill switch. Might be time for a new ignition switch if it hasn't already been replaced. You can also take the original apart and clean the contacts.

But first, I'd have a look at the fuse block and connections there. Make sure the fuse holder "tangs" are clean, free of corrosion and grip the fuses tightly. I use a wire brush in my Dremel to clean the tangs and the tips of the fuses (or just replace the fuses). A little spray of DeOxit might help the connection to the fuseblock.

<plug for Greg Bender> I installed one of Greg's excellent relay solutions on my 'Vert - it has relays for the ignition circuit, horn and headlight high/low. Lessens the load on the switchgear with brighter lights and louder horns as a bonus. It's "plug and play" - easy to install, I only needed to slightly enlarge the hole in the plastic cover on the back of the headlight bucket.

[Groover]

I'd temporarily bypass the sidestand switch to be 100% sure. The one on my G5, also new from Greg failed at about a year after replacing it. Not Greg's fault of course, just a failed switch. It was intermittent, where it would cut out for a few seconds, a few rides apart, then just failed about a month later. That's where my knowledge ends for the convert, and is limited to that single part 

[nick949]

I will try bypassing the stand switch, although it activates the dash light reliably and worked when I tested for voltage (on/off).

Norm assures me that when he took it for a safety inspection, the bike wouldn't start unless the clutch was pulled in, but no matter how diligently I search, I can't find any switch or electrical connection.

The ignition switch lights all the lights and allows the bike to be cranked reliably - it's just some darn intrusion in the ignition circuit.

Nick

[Pmyers]

Follow the clutch cable down to the rear of the right floorboard and you will find a cylidrical tube about two inches long.. It should have some wires coming out of it that tie into the fuse box...

[Chuck in Indiana]

and now there is no power at the points/coils/plugs.

Well, at least this will be able to troubleshoot.  It's the intermittent ones that drive you crazy. (ier)

[bigbikerrick]

 I think that  Mr. P Myers hit the nail on the head! Check that thing, my California II Auto had one, and it seemed to be trouble prone. Some kind of clutch safety switch.
Rick.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I think that  Mr. P Myers hit the nail on the head! Check that thing, my California II Auto had one, and it seemed to be trouble prone. Some kind of clutch safety switch.
Rick.

But, it doesn't interrupt the ignition circuit, only the starting circuit. The ignition switch, sidestand "safety" switch and kill switch interrupt the ignition circuit.

[Arizona Wayne]

On a bumpy road 1 time my `80 Convert. suddenly went dead on me.    It was the main hot wire connection to a circuit board behind 1 of the side covers (forget which).  I replaced that female terminal and all was good again. 

[nick949]

As a follow up.........   In the end it was a simple bad connection between the side-stand switch wiring and the main harness, but, to get to that point I traced and checked just about everything on the harness, from one end to the other, including removing, inspecting and cleaning the diode board (Ariz Wayne).  At least I know how most stuff connects now, and found a whole host of redundant wiring that was just loitering along the frame causing confusion. My relief when I again had spark at the plugs and fire in the cylinders was vast.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.

Nick

[redrider90]

  At least I know how most stuff connects now, and found a whole host of redundant wiring that was just loitering along the frame causing confusion.
Nick

You will forget it all in a year or two and then have to start all over.