High Cost of Ducati Service

[leafman60]

Ducati Scrambler Series

Valve lash inspection interval = 7500 miles

Quoted cost = $650-700

That's about 10 cents per mile just for valve inspection cost.


I was horned up for one of the new Desert Sled Scramblers but that gets me out of the mood!

.

[cruzziguzzi]

Makes that Triumph Scrambler look all the better not to mention cobbling one's own project together.

Wouldn't be a Ducati but still...




Todd.

[TimmyTheHog]

That sounds about the same price here for any sort of Duc engine work...also Tax in BC Canada is 12%...which puts you @ roughly 800 bux US total...

This is one of the main reasons that put me off the Duc Scrambler despite their 0% finance option...

[timonbik]

My Multistrada 620 was $600 US  every service interval, which included timing belts.  No matter what I had done, the bill was always $600.  Dealer told me to extend the intervals and was doing it every 20,000 km when it was totaled.  Almost 70,000 km on the clock and never spent a penny on it other than wear items like tires, chains, a sprocket set, oil changes, a battery  and headlight bulbs every 15,000km. Those valve adjustments were a bone of contention and fortunately I hadn't taken it in as it was due when wrecked,  Was a great bike.
Cheers,  Tim

[Perazzimx14]

Gleaned from Strom Troopers:

The guys at Motorcycle World are great, working overtime lastnight to get my fork seals replaced so I had a chance to pick it up before the long weekend starts.

 They also swapped out the brake pads since the old ones were covered in fork oil, and cleaned the whole front end up. It looks as close to new now as it can get.

 3 hours labor, brake pads, fork seals, fork oil, and shop supplies.

 They also did the 24k service which included

 - 6 hours labor
 - spark plugs
 - 2 cylinder head gaskets
 - 2 other cylinder head gaskets
 - air filter
 - oil and filter
 - some other gasket
 - cylinder head washer
 - a bolt
 - a screw
 - swapped out two shims
 - some brake fluid
 - oil seal
 - dust seal
 - TBS

 Total $1793.49

 I guess it really does pay to do this kind of work myself, but at least I feel confident it has been done correctly, and I didn't die from a heart attack either, the wife may when the bill comes in.

Yeah Ducati really knows how to screw people

[TimmyTheHog]

Gleaned from Strom Troopers:

The guys at Motorcycle World are great, working overtime lastnight to get my fork seals replaced so I had a chance to pick it up before the long weekend starts.

 They also swapped out the brake pads since the old ones were covered in fork oil, and cleaned the whole front end up. It looks as close to new now as it can get.

 3 hours labor, brake pads, fork seals, fork oil, and shop supplies.

 They also did the 24k service which included

 - 6 hours labor
 - spark plugs
 - 2 cylinder head gaskets
 - 2 other cylinder head gaskets
 - air filter
 - oil and filter
 - some other gasket
 - cylinder head washer
 - a bolt
 - a screw
 - swapped out two shims
 - some brake fluid
 - oil seal
 - dust seal
 - TBS

 Total $1793.49

 I guess it really does pay to do this kind of work myself, but at least I feel confident it has been done correctly, and I didn't die from a heart attack either, the wife may when the bill comes in.

Yeah Ducati really knows how to screw people

If this is the same Motorcycle World as I know of, they are typically pretty fair with their pricing...

All I can say is I can probably by another motorcycle with those dollar than trying to fork up for the service...LOL...

[JProdun]

Lol, "some other gasket", "some break fluid". Almost $2000 is crazy in my book.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bonaventure]

Having had two Ducs I'd say under warranty you really have no choice but to have the recommended service done by a dealer shop because DIY on it is likely to make Ducati balk should some warranty claim arise.  I was fortunate to have bought from a very good Ducati dealer in Louisville KY, with fair pricing and genuinely expert service dept. 

[Frulk]

Well, at the other end of the spectrum there's guys like me who think if only I had the option to have a Pete Roper or Harpers working on my Guzzi in SLC, Ut. I wouldn't bat an eye at those costs considering the brand I choose to own doesn't even have a dealership in my time zone.

Honda CB 1100 valve check at 12K. Current going rate is $600 and change.
Guzzi initial 600 mile check at now defunct Guzzi dealer. $505 (done at dealer to ensure no problems with warranty if something was to happen).

I know, still doesn't change the fact that Duc maint/service is expensive....

[Yukonica]

Probably going to get myself flamed for saying but $1700 for 9 hours of labour at shop rate plus parts doesn't seem too off the mark. Shop rate here is $160... an hour. There's $1440 of the total. Print 'Ducati' on the gasket package and there's the rest.
Which is why I have learned to do all my own service ... with the help of this very excellent forum.

This spring, two wheels dropped off (with tire tires) for mounting cost me $145.00. A fully equipped shop took nearly an hour to change two tires? My Jeep costs me $120 for 4 tires that are still attached to the truck when I deliver it. Speak about feeling greased by the local shop.

I'm with Faulk: yes, I'd use the service of forum members if they were nearby; but they aren't.
Instead I support the forum, buy from forum member shops when I can, and even sent Guzzidiag money though at map was not available at the time (I consider it all about paying forward).

[Nic in Western NYS]

Buy a used one, don't be all OCD on the friggin valve clearance check interval, ride the snot out of it. Every bike is a soon to be rusting bucket of bolts so don't treat it like it's worthy of anything other than use or abuse.  It's not a child and you don't go to jail for neglecting valve clearance checks.  By the time there's a problem with the valves, most here will be bored with it and on to the next.  As Dave Grohl says, AND IT'S ON ON ON TO THE NEXT ONE ON ON ON TO THE NEXT.  For me, I don't put that many miles on, I keep to the service intervals, and go to a dealer - but if the service costs bother you and you want a Duc, see advice above.

[Lannis]

Here's something that might help put the "high cost of service" in perspective.

Go to an unlimited class tractor pull, or pull up "tractor pull fail" YouTube videos.

Guys out for a weekend's racing will blow an Allison V-12 engine sky high and rip the transmission out from under it, or tear the blower right off of a 3000 HP diesel ...

Can you imagine towing that thing back home, unloading it in the shop, and saying "Ok, let's see, where should we start ... ?"

Probably make a Ducati valve adjustment seem pretty tame .... !

Lannis

[leafman60]

I owned and loved Ducati's back in the bevel-drive days (wish I still had my 900SS).  I performed the valve inspections and adjustments then.  I rarely had to do much to them but occasionally a new bucket or collet was needed.  The biggest problem in those days was getting access to that rear cylinder, especially that intake valve on the back.

When I look at the ugly conglomeration of wiring and plumbing that is crammed in the engine bay of the modern duc's, I cringe at the thought of doing the valve work.  I could do it but it is a definite negative for me.

[leafman60]

Also, for many people, the service requirements of a Ducati may not be an issue of practical concern.  If it is a scratch-about off-road bike or a hooligan hot rod, most owners may not log very many miles in a year and those expensive recommended service intervals may come infrequently.

[not-fishing]

Actually I'm happy about the service cost.  Being Po' I do all the work myself so some day I'll be able to afford a low mileage Duc Multi with Ohlins as a long haul bike or a Duc 800 S2R for a City bike.



I've always wanted a bike with an Avon fairing

[kfz]

I do the belts and valves on my Ducati and its a right royal pain in the neck, especially if you need to buy a shim. The dealers will play dum and wont sell the shims. Buy em online instead.   Like most things its not hard but just long winded.  The worst bit of it is having a Guzzi sharing the garage its easy to get annoyed if you think it takes less than 15mins (inc waiting to brew up) to complete the same job on a Guzzi.

To make matters worse I have Fz750 needing a valve adjustment as well, with 20 underbucket shims, so thats a pain as well. Taking the bloody cams out and re-timing. Really!

Kev

[Huzo]

Buy a used one, don't be all OCD on the friggin valve clearance check interval, ride the snot out of it. Every bike is a soon to be rusting bucket of bolts so don't treat it like it's worthy of anything other than use or abuse.  It's not a child and you don't go to jail for neglecting valve clearance checks.  By the time there's a problem with the valves, most here will be bored with it and on to the next.  As Dave Grohl says, AND IT'S ON ON ON TO THE NEXT ONE ON ON ON TO THE NEXT.  For me, I don't put that many miles on, I keep to the service intervals, and go to a dealer - but if the service costs bother you and you want a Duc, see advice above.

If you "don't put that many miles on", what's the advice about "riding the snot out of it" referring to ? Also you suggest ignoring the valve clearance specs yet you advocate sticking to the service intervals ??? And if the service costs bother you and you still want a Duke, which part of the above advice should we take on board ? Am I in trouble for asking ?

[lrutt]

First off, the valve checks / shimming and belts is easy on a 2 valver. For less than the cost of your first service you can buy a complete shim kit and new collets. The collets will extend  your service interval to over 12k miles easy, and you will always have the shim you need with the kit.

Been doing this on my M900 for 16 years now.

[leafman60]

Actually I'm happy about the service cost.  Being Po' I do all the work myself so some day I'll be able to afford a low mileage Duc Multi with Ohlins as a long haul bike or a Duc 800 S2R for a City bike.



I've always wanted a bike with an Avon fairing

That tank just doesn't quite go right with that fairing for my tastes. 

.

[Rough Edge racing]

First off, the valve checks / shimming and belts is easy on a 2 valver. For less than the cost of your first service you can buy a complete shim kit and new collets. The collets will extend  your service interval to over 12k miles easy, and you will always have the shim you need with the kit.

Been doing this on my M900 for 16 years now.

 Yes, I do the job on my 96 900M and while it takes time and patience, not difficult...The shim kits are less than 300 bucks...In reality many guys say the valves stay in adjustment much longer than the service interval..

[Chuck in Indiana]

The biggest problem in those days was getting access to that rear cylinder, especially that intake valve on the back.

Oh, no problem. All you have to do is pull the engine out, put it on the bench, adjust that rear cylinder, and put it back in. <shrug> 

[Route140]

Fortunately, my Ducati has valve springs. Valve adjustments are almost as easy as a Guzzi!

[leafman60]

Oh, no problem. All you have to do is pull the engine out, put it on the bench, adjust that rear cylinder, and put it back in. <shrug> 

hahahaha

yeah, right

Hey, that's the way their shop manual shows it.  They have a bare engine on a bench and the valve check/adjust looks easy at that point!

[jpv7]

The air cooled motor in the scrambler is a gem.  If it were mine, I'd have it adjusted once properly after break in, and then just check it once in a while.  So if you can do some basic maintenance, it is a cheap bike to own.  Belts are easy too, and Ducati intervals are very conservative.  Yes, Ducati dealer servicing is $$   

My belt drive 900ss and Monster S2R1000 held clearances very well, even with track day use.  On the S2r1000, i checked the clearances at the first service, and they were bang on.  Never even needed to change one.  And they stayed there until sold at 20,000 km.  I love the air-cooled, 2 valve ducs...

[Perazzimx14]

Here's something that might help put the "high cost of service" in perspective.

Go to an unlimited class tractor pull, or pull up "tractor pull fail" YouTube videos.

Guys out for a weekend's racing will blow an Allison V-12 engine sky high and rip the transmission out from under it, or tear the blower right off of a 3000 HP diesel ...

Can you imagine towing that thing back home, unloading it in the shop, and saying "Ok, let's see, where should we start ... ?"

Probably make a Ducati valve adjustment seem pretty tame .... !

Lannis

I'm not even remotely sure how competitive tractor pulling relates to the "high service costs" of a stock motorcycle

[Triple Jim]

There's a feeling there that Ducati is worse than other brands.  From the Yamaha FZ-09 board:

Out of curiosity, I asked about pricing, and the mechanic said between $400-500 to check, and $600-700 if adjustments are needed (with room to climb if they're ALL out of spec, or if other 'issues' arise). I would expect, with any extra service or hidden fees and a conservative guess, to pay around $800 for a valve adjustment job. Worth it to learn it on my own.

[Kev m]

The air cooled motor in the scrambler is a gem.  If it were mine, I'd have it adjusted once properly after break in, and then just check it once in a while.  So if you can do some basic maintenance, it is a cheap bike to own.  Belts are easy too, and Ducati intervals are very conservative.  Yes, Ducati dealer servicing is $$   

This is where we are with the 696.

Granted Jenn doesn't put a ton of miles on it, but we're past the first check now, only do belts every 4 years or so and we've not had a single problem with it, unless you count that we mysteriously had to bleed the rear brake this year after winter storage with no sign of why.

[JJ]

High Cost of Ducati Service - - I love Ducati's, vintage and modern,  , and have ridden many, but this is the main reason I never owned one...

[Nic in Western NYS]

If you "don't put that many miles on", what's the advice about "riding the snot out of it" referring to ? Also you suggest ignoring the valve clearance specs yet you advocate sticking to the service intervals ??? And if the service costs bother you and you still want a Duke, which part of the above advice should we take on board ? Am I in trouble for asking ?

Hello Huzo! 
Thanks for letting me clarify.  Two distinct, contradictory approaches, either of which is not the worst thing: Approach 1. Ride it long and hard, don't obsess, it's just a machine that will likely do ok with less than absolute adherence to factory service intervals; Approach 2. Be obsessive, and don't put too many miles on it thereby keeping overall (but not per-mile) costs down.
My choice has been Approach #2.

[Lannis]

This is where we are with the 696.

Granted Jenn doesn't put a ton of miles on it, but we're past the first check now, only do belts every 4 years or so and we've not had a single problem with it, unless you count that we mysteriously had to bleed the rear brake this year after winter storage with no sign of why.

Yep, you've got to have a little "mechanical sympathy" to go along with the owner's manual.

As we've discussed before, the Centauro owner's manual called for belt replacement every 18000 miles, spline and U-joint grease every 1000 miles, and complete replacement of the drive shaft every 18000 miles, including both U-joints.

But Centauro owners (sharing information back and forth) soon learned that this wasn't anything close to necessary.   Yes, if you're pounding the thing on a racetrack with the throttle pinned at every opportunity, you might want do that that level of maintenance, but for a normally ridden bike, the belts will go 30K+ and the driveshaft only needs greasing at every tire change (when it's easy to get to) and replacing only if it NEEDS replacing.

On my Triumph Trophy, the manual recommendation is a camshaft-out valve lash check/adjustment every 20,000 miles.    However, my shop says they will work with me on that, since they've never yet seen a Trophy that needs a valve adjustment after 20,000 miles .....

I'm sure that Ducatis are pretty much the same way.    You can throw off the clearances and runouts on a good solid bedded-in engine more by constantly taking it apart and fiddling with it, than just riding it and paying attention to noises and vibration changes ....

Lannis