2014 Norge

[inditx]

Searched but didn’t find if anyone has used the helibars on a 2104 Norge? The same ones listed for Breva and Norge up to 2010 I mean.

Thanks

[PJPR01]

Helibars are only available up to the 2010 Norge Model, but not for later years.

You'll have to find an alternative setup for handlebar modification...

[JeffOlson]

I looked for those, too, for my 2014 Norge. I even contacted Hellibars. No luck.

I wonder how difficult it would be to fabricate an S-bend in a couple of short handlebar pieces, plug the pieces into the existing brackets, and re-attach the handgrips, etc...

[ITSec]

The HeliBars for the earlier bikes put their grips in almost exactly the same position as the stock risers do on the 8v bikes. Thus, there was not the same demand for the modifications. I believe some owners of later bikes have had riser blocks machined that sit between the stock risers and the base plate on the triple tree, using longer machine screws to allow the block to simply be sandwiched in...

[old as dirt 2]

I looked for those, too, for my 2014 Norge. I even contacted Hellibars. No luck.

I wonder how difficult it would be to fabricate an S-bend in a couple of short handlebar pieces, plug the pieces into the existing brackets, and re-attach the handgrips, etc...

I was also toying with the same idea using some rox risers.

[Trialsman]

I believe some owners of later bikes have had riser blocks machined that sit between the stock risers and the base plate on the triple tree, using longer machine screws to allow the block to simply be sandwiched in...

That is exactly what I did and it worked out perfectly for my '15 Norge.  Just be aware that the bar units are dampened so they need to "float" not tighten to crush.

[Huzo]

What is the general consensus as to why they need to be raised ? I'm just interested that's all. There's a lot of support for the practice, so it must have some credence to it.

[lorazepam]

What is the general consensus as to why they need to be raised ? I'm just interested that's all. There's a lot of support for the practice, so it must have some credence to it.

Old farts with big bellies who don't want to lean forward.

[Huzo]

Old farts with big bellies who don't want to lean forward.

Ok, that's honest. I'm an advocate for modifying the 'bar where it exits the top of the casting, such that your wrist does not kink and your palm sits evenly across the grip. The bars on the Norge are unnecessarily wide, I took off the up/down switches for the screen and made new bars 40mm shorter, coupled with the rotation I mentioned, I suggest that a lot of the effect you're after is achieved. Check this out..

[old as dirt 2]

Ok, that's honest. I'm an advocate for modifying the 'bar where it exits the top of the casting, such that your wrist does not kink and your palm sits evenly across the grip. The bars on the Norge are unnecessarily wide, I took off the up/down switches for the screen and made new bars 40mm shorter, coupled with the rotation I mentioned, I suggest that a lot of the effect you're after is achieved. Check this out..

what did you do with the windshield switches? I don't see them in the pic.

[Gliderjohn]

Don't see any windshield height switches either.???
GliderJohn

[ITSec]

Don't see any windshield height switches either.???
GliderJohn

Looking carefully at the full size image, there's some kind of switch just above the ABS button. Might be it...

[Huzo]

what did you do with the windshield switches? I don't see them in the pic.

A 2 way switch just above the ABS switch

[inditx]

A 2 way switch just above the ABS switch

Sweet!

[Huzo]

Sweet!

Yeah that set up on the standard Norge is garbage. Dumping those silly switch blocks means you can have the 'bars 40 mm shorter EACH side and that increases the effectiveness of the fairing markedly.

[ITSec]

Yeah that set up on the standard Norge is garbage. Dumping those silly switch blocks means you can have the 'bars 40 mm shorter EACH side and that increases the effectiveness of the fairing markedly.

Personally, I prefer the bars in their original width. I added the handguards from the Stelvio instead. I did change out the switches for two-way momentaries as described elsewhere, which let me put the cruise control accel/decel on the left, and the windshield in a single switch on the right.

[Huzo]

I know that your particular Norge is a well used and well sorted piece of kit. I respect your opinion, so to that end, why do you like the 'bars so wide, given that it's universally accepted that the Norge is a nice light neutral handling bike? And would you agree that the grips do not allow you to ride with your wrist straight, or if you do, your palm is not resting evenly on the grip ? Just interested, that's all..

[Huzo]

Sweet!

I had a look back at previous posts (for once), but didn't see. Is your bike a Norge, or are you chasing one, inditx?

[ITSec]

I know that your particular Norge is a well used and well sorted piece of kit. I respect your opinion, so to that end, why do you like the 'bars so wide, given that it's universally accepted that the Norge is a nice light neutral handling bike? And would you agree that the grips do not allow you to ride with your wrist straight, or if you do, your palm is not resting evenly on the grip ? Just interested, that's all..

Maybe my arms or shoulders are different from yours. I do have the HeliBars on it which does change the position somewhat, but not as dramatically as your approach (I believe you said 40mm each side). I find the wrist position with the HeliBars is pretty much perfect for my physiology; the angle is changes slightly from stock. From my perspective, I'd turn the question around: given that the Norge has such nice, neutral handling, why do you want a 3.5" narrower, higher effort steering design?

My primary long-distance bike prior to the Norge was a Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom. I found I really like having a wider bar with less steering effort required. I've never found the bar design I have has been a problem in the twisties, or prevented me from reacting quickly.

My point in making my comment was to say that solutions for handlebars are going to vary as much as do the riders - and that I've never felt a need to go to a narrower hand location than that provided with the Helibars (about 15mm per side inwards but more than that back and up, which is what I really got them for).

BTW, I have ridden bikes with narrow bars and with clip-ons, and they have their place. In my view that's mostly on a track, but I do like the riding position of the Griso.

[Huzo]

Yeah look I guess that's all completely fair IT. I'm not a really big guy across the shoulders, if I was, maybe my arms would diverge at a lesser angle and therefore the wrist issue would not even have arisen. So to that end , fair enough.
As for the question as to why I wanted a heavier steering bike, I'd have to admit that the Physics bear you out, but I cannot spot the difference. So I thought that since the bars are feather light with respect to steering inputs, anything that rendered them a little heavier, even if it's not discernible, would be an acceptable alteration. The blood and guts of it all was, the narrowing of the bars, brings your hands back within the protection zone of the fairing and it looks less like a dirt bike also.