Upgrading Spark Plug boots - XD05F(P)??? 2015 V7 Stone

[TimmyTheHog]

okay...so my first order of ebay plugs & boots got refunded due to stupid seller issue, I am resorts to looking the plugs & boots locally.

Now I am located in Vancouver BC, Canada so one of the NGK plug seller is Greater Vancouver Powersports.

They can get the CPR8EA-9 Spark Plugs no issue.

But they only have XD05FP which according to NGK site, it has a special waterproof cover compare to XD05F.

Has anyone used this boots before? And hows the fitment wise? Does the cover still fit?...

ANY INPUT HELPS!

Thanks,

[TimmyTheHog]

and I know more experience people usually use the feel to tighten up spark plugs, but I don't have that feel.

So...Can some one please spare me the torque value for these spark plugs????

The guzzi manual says 22 ft-lb...which I suspect quite high...

[Kiwi Dave]

The guzzi manual says 22 ft-lb...which I suspect quite high...

Is that 22 ft-ib lubed or dry?  There is a big difference.  This is why you need to "feel" the amount of tightness to apply and not rely on a dumb torque wrench.

[TimmyTheHog]

Is that 22 ft-ib lubed or dry?  There is a big difference.  This is why you need to "feel" the amount of tightness to apply and not rely on a dumb torque wrench.

Well, the guzzi manual doesn't say anything regarding to lube, so i believe it means dry...but again, since the engine is alum block if I am not mistaken...

I do install them by tighteness but I double check the final value by a torque wrench and I don't really trust myself with the "1/2" extra turn after seated the spark plugs by hand...

[Tom H]

On the NGK BP6ES plug box, it gives the torque value for aluminum. Also the hand tight plus I think it was a half turn. Nothing about wet or dry, but I do use anti-sieze on the plugs, so you could call it wet when I do it.

Good luck,
Tom

[TimmyTheHog]

On the NGK BP6ES plug box, it gives the torque value for aluminum. Also the hand tight plus I think it was a half turn. Nothing about wet or dry, but I do use anti-sieze on the plugs, so you could call it wet when I do it.

Good luck,
Tom

Thanks Tom

and ya I actually also found the old thread by Sib regarding to his V7ii maintenance write up as well...12 NM!

Now, back to my "original question", so would the XD05FP fit?

[Kev m]

Fwiw NGK and many other plug manufactures these days advise against anti-seize, especially if the plugs are coated/plated, which NGKs pretty much all are.

Carry on.

[Tom H]

Kev, I have read that here before. I should probably stop using the anti-sieze, but I've been doing it for years. I used to have plugs that were hard to remove and galled/rough feeling threads, not since anti-sieze. I'm not telling anyone to use it, list what I have been doing.

Thanks for the heads up!! Maybe next change I'll clean the threads and no anti-sieze!

Tom

[Kev m]

There's a tech bulletin from NGK about it they put out years ago.

That said it's a hard habit to break if you're not getting any arcing then what's the harm? Maybe just watch the torque specs. If the OEM gives you a spec but doesn't recommend anti-seize you are really over-tightening it if you use the spec.

[Diploman]

MG Cycle has a full selection of NGK plugs and plug caps.  Look under "Ignition Systems" on their website.  It might be more convenient to order everything you need from one source.  If you have questions, give them a call.

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_157&products_id=4851

I use these plug caps on my V50 II:

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_157&products_id=1669

Waterproofing is a very useful capability - why would you not want that?

[Kev m]

In case anyone is interested, here's the NGK tech bulletin:

http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technical/Tips/Files/Sparkplug%20NGK%20TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

Topic
The use of anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads that have a metal shell
plating (i.e. Zinc or Nickel plating).

Issue
Applying anti-seize to the threads of spark plugs that have a metal plating allows the installer to
mistakenly over-tighten the spark plug in the cylinder head; This stretches and fatigues the threads of
the spark plugs, causing a much higher probability that the plug will break during installation or in some
cases upon removal.

Solution
For spark plugs with special metal plating simply do not use anti-seize on initial
Installation; All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent Zinc-chromate shell plating
that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head; Thus eliminating the need
for any thread compounds or lubricants.

Additional Information
NGK recommends only using spark plugs with metal plating on all aluminum head applications to
prevent damage to the head and plug. Metal shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from
the main body of the spark plug during removal, preventing damage to the spark plug and or threads in
the cylinder head.

Summary
All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against
seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be
required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the
plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize.

For more information, please visit us at ngksparkplugs.com.

The actual PDF has photos which might be helpful in visually identifying plugs that are plated vs those that are not. But I don't think I've come across one that wasn't plated for any on-road vehicle application in more than a decade.

[jpv7]

I used the waterproof boots no issue...located in Toronto.

[waxi]

I'm also waiting mine sparks and plug to come. I wanted to use waterproof version of boots, but since I can't get them, I went for standard.
I don't drive in rain anyway.

[n3303j]

Anti siezing compounds can effect torque vales by 25 percent. If using a torque wrench that's a bunch of over tightening.

If the plugs and washers are new you can easily feel contact with the washer when tightening. You can easily feel as the washer collapses during tightening. You can feel the increased pressure on the wrench when the washer is fully collapsed. I tighten to fully collapsed and a tiny fraction more. I'm using  a 4 Iinch compact ratchet handle and two fingers .

Never had a plug come loose and never hurt a thread or an insert on any internal combustion machinery.

That being said I always used the specified thread lubricant and a torque wrench on the 8 plugs in my Cessna 150 aircraft.

[Roebling3]

 2017, V7 III R: I had heard enough about OEM spark plug connector failures and had the dealer install NGK's @ the 600 mile service. I treated the fuel filter the same way. Pre-emptive strikes yield confidence on the road.
At 440 miles from new the fuel filter was ballooning. Once out of warrantee the factory says dealers must replace the entire pump and filter as a single part!!! ~$600.00 + labor, including the $64.00 Mahle filter. R3~

[TimmyTheHog]

Thanks everyone for the information regarding to the spark plugs, anti-seize, fitment and websites!!!!!!!

Of course I would like to be waterproof too and I had the suspicion that they would fit but just would hate to order some and find out they don't because the suffix "P"...you

AWESOME-FULLY APPRECIATED!

2017, V7 III R: I had heard enough about OEM spark plug connector failures and had the dealer install NGK's @ the 600 mile service. I treated the fuel filter the same way. Pre-emptive strikes yield confidence on the road.
At 440 miles from new the fuel filter was ballooning. Once out of warrantee the factory says dealers must replace the entire pump and filter as a single part!!! ~$600.00 + labor, including the $64.00 Mahle filter. R3~

ouch...

my hasn't failed yet but I rather not find out when LOL...also winter is coming *insert GOT music*, I got all the time...well, with wife permitted, I can work on the bike over the winter until March...

gonna take my time as I would hate to break stuff lol...

[Roebling3]

BTW: Forgot to add the modification to the cast aluminum spark plug wire and connector cover.
The squarish cup like cover was sawed off and where it blends in w/the wire cover. There's a serious chance of grounding the system when the cover is squeezed down on the connector.  R3~

[n3303j]

I make up my own plug wires with bulk wire and the appropriate plug cap. Cap screws on to the end of the wire. I squirt a generous portion of RTV high temp silicone into the cap before screwing it on to the wire. It gives me a perfect seal between the cap and the wire. It also guarantees wire won't easily separate from the cap. I let the silicone cure for 24 hours before placing the assembly into service.

I do ride in the rain (and winter road salt on the Ural).

[TimmyTheHog]

BTW: Forgot to add the modification to the cast aluminum spark plug wire and connector cover.
The squarish cup like cover was sawed off and where it blends in w/the wire cover. There's a serious chance of grounding the system when the cover is squeezed down on the connector.  R3~

if you don't mind, is there a chance of a picture?

I have a good idea what you talking about...just like to add into my note if possible :)

[Hymes Inc.]

Just installed a set of XD05F boots and C8E plugs on my 13 special. Not sure how those boots can be more waterproof. The rubber tips fit really tight, was even concerned I wouldn't be able to get them on.

[waxi]

Got plugs and caps today. I've re-read thread below many times, but I simply can't get cap with sealing rubber down the hole onto a plug. Actually I don't want to, because I know I won't get it out anytime soon. Ideas? It's a XD05F and V7 II.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=84996.0

[TimmyTheHog]

Got plugs and caps today. I've re-read thread below many times, but I simply can't get cap with sealing rubber down the hole onto a plug. Actually I don't want to, because I know I won't get it out anytime soon. Ideas? It's a XD05F and V7 II.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=84996.0

You mean you can't push the cap because it is too fat for the hole?

[malik]

This is what I'm using for the 1TB V7 Special - changed over from the stock type at 46,000km & it's been running fine since - now another 46.000km & 17 months later. (There has been a few (3) plug changes since.









Although they are a tight fit in the well in the head, they do go on & come off in one piece. The next opportunity I have, I shall try them in a V7II & let you know.

[TimmyTheHog]

This is what I'm using for the 1TB V7 Special - changed over from the stock type at 46,000km & it's been running fine since - now another 46.000km & 17 months later. (There has been a few (3) plug changes since.









Although they are a tight fit in the well in the head, they do go on & come off in one piece. The next opportunity I have, I shall try them in a V7II & let you know.

OOOOO HOW I LOVE PICTURES...

Waiting for your update!

[waxi]

Yes, it is to fat. Same cap as malik's (in black). I've tries many times, but even with slightest push it stucks with the fins. Do I need this rubber even I don't ride in rain? Grinding it?

[redhawk47]

The XD05F fits my 2016 V7II Stone - it's a snug fit. One time the rubber piece stuck in the hole when I removed that connector. It came out easily with a pair of needle nose pliers. I coated it with dielectric grease - no more problems.

[waxi]

Yesterday I've managed to replace plugs and caps on my V7 II. Since rubber was way to big to fit into the cylinder plug hole, I've grind it (1-2 mm) with some sandpaper on a electric motor. Rubber is still strong enough and fits perfectly. Left plugs gap as they came: 0.8-0-9 mm and torqued with 11 Nm.

I had to cut original male screw of the plug wire since NGK caps also have male screw thread (damn, that was fun. You know that pain when you cut wires?). I've noticed that the wire inside is really thin... maybe 1 mm in diameter. Isn't this to thin? Hopefully new caps have a good grip on them. So far so good. It runs ok.

[TimmyTheHog]

Yesterday I've managed to replace plugs and caps on my V7 II. Since rubber was way to big to fit into the cylinder plug hole, I've grind it (1-2 mm) with some sandpaper on a electric motor. Rubber is still strong enough and fits perfectly. Left plugs gap as they came: 0.8-0-9 mm and torqued with 11 Nm.

I had to cut original male screw of the plug wire since NGK caps also have male screw thread (damn, that was fun. You know that pain when you cut wires?). I've noticed that the wire inside is really thin... maybe 1 mm in diameter. Isn't this to thin? Hopefully new caps have a good grip on them. So far so good. It runs ok.

Thanks for the update!

I have yet to get my parts yet...priorities with family...

Hopefully my goes into the hole easier :P

[MotoBug]

Can someone tell me the correct size plug socket tool for the V7ii please? I thought it was 16mm but the 16mm socket I just bought isn't as snug as it should seem.

[malik]

They all seem a bit loose/sloppy. I bought my box spanner from Motociclo - works fine. The plug measures 15.7.