Eureka ! - (Need a new turn signal switch OR a good soldering iron)

[normzone]

That switch cluster that controls the turn signals/horn/low-high beam on the left was identified as a likely culprit in my previous lighting issue - you know, the one that I solved temporarily by replacing all the melted/abraded wires inside the rear turn signals and the art deco tail light mount.

So my brake light ceased working again - and I'm back into it. I opened up the switch (hereafter referred to as the switch) and found not one, but two wires broken off flush where they go into the plastic doohicky thing.

I saw that another rider here had soldered his, so I thought that I would do the same.

My four dollar Harbor freight soldering iron would not get hot enough to melt solder, although it will burn your fingers if you test it that way.

So I bought a fourteen dollar Harbor freight soldering iron, which glowed red hot momentarily after I tinned the tip, then melted it's tip and ceased working. It came with replacement tips, but since they are too big to get in there and do precise work without melting the switch anyway, it's kind of a moot point.

Harpers has that switch for $300, and it's becoming more attractive even at that price.

Granted, this may not resolve my brake light issue, but it needs to be dealt with anyway. Probably the source of my low beam not functioning.

To quote [Tom H] when we met at the rally, " So this is that Bassa that's always got something wrong with it ? ".

I did some math to amuse my wife this morning while we were talking about this - to date my 2005 Camry has cost me 18 cents a mile to drive, and the Bassa has only cost me 16 cents a mile. So I think it's all good. But that sure is a pricey switch.

[Chuck in Indiana]

For the price of a $300 switch (gasp choke) I'd put in a little more effort in repairing the one I had. I would think this bad boy would do any of the soldering normally done on any Guzzi.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG7F0/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w
I have a couple of antique (naturally) Wellers, one with a pointed tip, and one with a chisel tip. They've worked for considerably longer than your

glowed red hot momentarily after I tinned the tip, then melted it's tip and ceased working.

HF special. You *did* get your money back, right? 

[rodekyll]

Soldering guns suck worse than snow studs on a sugar donut.  I only use them to weld plastic and other things that would contaminate a good tip

Search "soldering station" on ebay.  Used name brands are cheap enough that I have Wellers and Ungars everywhere.  For $20 you can get a new offshore knockoff of a weller or Pace.  For twice that you can get a second-hand actual weller or other really good name.  Stations have adjustable temp.  Some have desoldering apparatus options, and all have replaceable tips.  You can replace them with whatever you want to -- I've used needles for really fine circuit board work.

Then use the finest high-silver, rosin core electricl soldering wire you can find.  Tin the tip first, then the wire end, and then you should be able to place the wire on the lug and quickly tap the tinned end with the hot tip for a good joint, without burning or melting anything else.

[canuck750]

I have wrecked a few switches trying to solder new wires on , Gregory B. put me on to this stuff

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Silver-Thermally-Conductive-Epoxy-Electric-Electro-Bond-13-5gm-pouch-s/162009872701?hash=item25b88a793d:g:3-4AAOSwh-1W6tCX

[ITSec]

You live in southern California - stop by Fry's on your way home and pick up a quality name brand soldering iron or station with a narrow electronics-style point. Weller, Hakka, any number of others in the $18-40 range and they'll work now and last for years. The ones at the electronics stores are intended for work in much smaller, more confined areas than the ones at hardware stores.

[jlburgess]

I've got a blazing hot soldering gun if you want to borrow it Norm.  I'm over by Old Town.
John

[Tom H]

Sounds like a deal, just borrow one.

A little of topic. Norm, how long ago did you change your air filter? Been thinking about your mileage issue.

Tom

[Tom]

Handlebar control switches on Ebay.  https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R3.TR5.TRC1.A0.H0.Xmotorcycle+handlebar+con.TRS0&_nkw=motorcycle+handlebar+controls+7%2F8&_sacat=0

[normzone]

Thank you all for your comments and assistance - here's the weekend update.

[Tom H], the air filter was just changed, it gets swapped every six thousand miles.

I was fortunate - found an old Weller soldering station at work and borrowed it.

Took a tiny drill bit in hand and cleaned out the places in the connection in the switch where two wires had been soldered once / broken off. Flux in those holes, drop of solder in each. Tinned the broken wire tips in the same manner, positioned them and touched the soldering iron tip to them and switch fixed.

Good news, the headlamp low beam is back and the switch toggles through both beams.

Bad news, still no brakelight. I'm going to operate on the floating ground theory, and keep looking along those lines. Unfortunately between work and daylight wastings kicking in I am pretty limited in access time.

Oh, and regarding the clock change, you have to watch this every year :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4EUTMPuvHo

Aha ! They made a sequel also ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_2167605361&feature=iv&index=1&list=PL3qi8J5cf3Zi_JsngeWvdX1ll6zfPFGlq&src_vid=k4EUTMPuvHo&v=w45QkL9blG4

[Chuck in Indiana]

Attaboy, Norm. You're turning into a mechanic and electrician already. 

[normzone]

Considering the source, that's high praise indeed. Thank you.

My brother and I have a standing joke about the high suicide rate among automotive electricians.

I rode to work today, highly aware of the absence of brake lights. Going to look at grounds during lunch.

[normzone]

So here's how it turns out - I don't have an absence of brake lights, I have an overabundance of brake lights.

I thought they weren't coming on - but they're just on all the time.

Front brake light switch either stuck on internally or needs finessing - when I get home I'll hose out the ball bearing in the handle with some electrocleany stuff (TM). Somebody recommended a Radio Shack switch part number - guess I may as well order two of those for the spares box while I'm at it - off to find that thread.

EDIT: I had it in a PM from [Zoom Zoom] - I'll leave it here for the next person who needs it:

" Here it is: Radio Shack 275-0016. SPDT Submini Lever Switch (SPDT= Single Pole Double Throw.

There is a metal lever that you will bend out and cut off with a pair of side cuts. It has 3 contact points. You will only need to use 2 of them. If you meter them before you install the switch or cut off the metal tab using ohms, you will find the common. Of the other two, one will have continuity in its idle state and the other contact will complete when the switch is engaged. IIRC, once on the bike, it is engaged until you pull the lever. Don't get too hung up on that. Just figure out which is the common and then you will use one of the other pins. If the brake light is on without pulling the lever, use the other pin.

Now, if you thought the small ball bearing was a trip, the tiny screws and nuts are just about as bad. Well, the nuts anyway. The mounting holes line up and this switch works perfectly with the modification I noted above.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/spdt-switch-without-roller "

[jlburgess]

Considering the source, that's high praise indeed. Thank you.

My brother and I have a standing joke about the high suicide rate among automotive electricians.

I rode to work today, highly aware of the absence of brake lights. Going to look at grounds during lunch.

Nobody pays attention to those in San Diego anyway.  Just don't brake! 

[Tom]

Down shift and split lanes. 

[normzone]

Funny you should mention that - I'm not one of those go-up-the-white-line-at-80 guys, but today I found myself in a collapsing pocket of big trucks and little cars, with a half mile of open road ahead of it all.

One of the little cars saw me looking for opportunities and made a big space for me to take evasive action through and open up a decent distance between me and them. That earned him a wave. I always try to acknowledge people I see who are paying attention. They are rare enough that it doesn't cost me too much extra effort 

[Tom]

Yeah, I wave too.  I like it when people see you and move over. 

[Chuck in Indiana]

I get that fairly often in the LA basin. Of course, I *have* to split lanes to get anywhere.. so have more opportunity than most.  I give em a wave, too.

[Tom H]

I don't wave, but do try to nod my head toward them. Want to keep both hands on the bars while going between the next set of cars.

Ain't it fun

Tom

[normzone]

Yeah, I usually do the "thumb and palm on the grip, four fingers up momentarily" wave.