Loop tank chrome and flushing question

[brider]

I found a couple of threads here and elsewhere that mentioned using aluminum foil bunched into a ball and wetted with water to scrub rust off of chrome. I used some chrome-scrubbing wadding that I have in a can in the garage on the rusty tank panels on my rat Ambo, and it didn't do squat. I'll try the foil method tonight and see what happens.

What is the overall $$ I'm looking at to have the tank panels re-chromed? So many old loops I see have them painted over, makes me think the re-chroming process is prohibitive? I've tried a few metal finishing shops near me on other projects, and it seems NONE of them want to deal with a private dude. Makes me miss Phoenix, there was any number of powder-coaters, upholsterers, finishers, fabricators, etc, EVERYWHERE who would do your small jobs for cash. Here in CT nobody wants to talk to you. Apologies to anyone from CT.

I also ran across a few discussions that talked about the virtues of using white vinegar as a rust-stripper. Never thought of that, but could/should I try that for the tank internal flush? The tank emits the fragrant and not-unpleasant (to me, anyway) odor of varnish, and has a small amount of liquid still in it. Looking in the filler neck, there is some specks of rust, but nothing anywhere near flaky that I can see; I think the tank internal condition is definitely salvageable.

Suggestions?

[Chesterfield]

This place will do it for you, there is a video somewhere. He cuts the panels out re-chromes and welds back in. Cheap it is not, I am thinking $1500, but it`s the only way to do it correctly. It smacks of a cheap restore if you paint the panels.
http://www.motoguzziclassics.com/

[n3303j]

I always used wadded up aluminum foil (dry) to clean rust dots off chrome. Works like a charm. Uncle (car dealer) taught me the trick when cleaning up struts on black interior convertible car roofs. Removes rust and leaves no polish traces on the black roof.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I have seen a couple of tanks done with stick on chrome finish from an auto store, it looks quite good when pinstriped.
I think Greg Bender or someone like that has a template.

[canuck750]

I have seen the Cycle Garden video of the side panels cut out, re-chromed and then welded back in. Seems like a heck of a lot of work that introduces welded seams, body filler and cost.

Why not get the whole tank chrome plated and then mask of the chrome and repaint the tank?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I found a couple of threads here and elsewhere that mentioned using aluminum foil bunched into a ball and wetted with water to scrub rust off of chrome. I used some chrome-scrubbing wadding that I have in a can in the garage on the rusty tank panels on my rat Ambo, and it didn't do squat. I'll try the foil method tonight and see what happens.

What is the overall $$ I'm looking at to have the tank panels re-chromed? So many old loops I see have them painted over, makes me think the re-chroming process is prohibitive? I've tried a few metal finishing shops near me on other projects, and it seems NONE of them want to deal with a private dude. Makes me miss Phoenix, there was any number of powder-coaters, upholsterers, finishers, fabricators, etc, EVERYWHERE who would do your small jobs for cash. Here in CT nobody wants to talk to you. Apologies to anyone from CT.

I also ran across a few discussions that talked about the virtues of using white vinegar as a rust-stripper. Never thought of that, but could/should I try that for the tank internal flush? The tank emits the fragrant and not-unpleasant (to me, anyway) odor of varnish, and has a small amount of liquid still in it. Looking in the filler neck, there is some specks of rust, but nothing anywhere near flaky that I can see; I think the tank internal condition is definitely salvageable.

Suggestions?

I've used stainless steel wool saturated with Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover with excellent results. I tried aluminum foil and it works well too - about the same actually.

I've been quoted everythwere from $675 to $1050 to chrome the tank. I wish Brown's Plating was still in business - they charged $325. 

I'd clean it out first with Super Clean and a pressure washer. I plug the outlets, pour a few ounces of Super Clean in, then use the pressure washer to blast the inside. If you don't have a pressure washer, go to a coin operated car wash near you. Blast the insides as thoroughly as possible, the Super Clean will foam up. Then drain, rinse, refill with clean water, drain, rinse, repeat as needed. You might be surprised to see that what you thought was rust is now gone. If not, use "milkstone remover" to remove the rust. More options and information here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_fuel_tank_cleaning_and_coating.html

This place will do it for you, there is a video somewhere. He cuts the panels out re-chromes and welds back in. Cheap it is not, I am thinking $1500, but it`s the only way to do it correctly. It smacks of a cheap restore if you paint the panels.
http://www.motoguzziclassics.com/

Wrong guys, it's actually Cycle Garden that does them that way. Mark did it the same way as the factory - chrome the whole tank intact.  AFAIK, Mark no longer does tanks.

[Stephen Hill]

Antietam writes:  "
I've used stainless steel wool saturated with Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover with excellent results. I tried aluminum foil and it works well too - about the same actually. "

I would have thought that stainless steel wool would scratch the chrome.  The logic of using aluminum foil is that it is softer than the chrome.

Stephen Hill

[John Ulrich]

This place will do it for you, there is a video somewhere. He cuts the panels out re-chromes and welds back in. Cheap it is not, I am thinking $1500, but it`s the only way to do it correctly. It smacks of a cheap restore if you paint the panels.
http://www.motoguzziclassics.com/

Cycle Garden is the vendor for that service.  Mine was $2,000 to do years ago.

[brider]

I have seen the Cycle Garden video of the side panels cut out, re-chromed and then welded back in. Seems like a heck of a lot of work that introduces welded seams, body filler and cost.

THAT ain't going to happen. I agree that most paint-overs are cheezy, but I've seen a few on this site that are darn attractive. I'd rather spend 5 bills on a good paint-over than 15 bills on a re-chrome weld job.

[/quote]Why not get the whole tank chrome plated and then mask of the chrome and repaint the tank?
[/quote]

The factory really chromed the whole tank? Why haven't I seen a bunch of loops with the paint stripped? Is there just a base chrome layer that isn't polished shiny?

I thought it was possible to mask surrounding areas and strip/re-chrome locally. Guess I'm good until I see the results of my foil-rub.

[brider]

So, nobody liked my idea of a vinegar flush? My wife swears by vinegar, the smell runs the rest of us out of the house when she's cleaning.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Antietam writes:  "
I've used stainless steel wool saturated with Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover with excellent results. I tried aluminum foil and it works well too - about the same actually. "

I would have thought that stainless steel wool would scratch the chrome.  The logic of using aluminum foil is that it is softer than the chrome.

Stephen Hill

By itself it would, but with the Turtle Wax, it is less likely to. In any case, the chrome brider is trying to "save" is already compromised, so a few scratches are the least of the worries. In my experience, even though the aluminum foil is softer, it still scratches the chrome.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

THAT ain't going to happen. I agree that most paint-overs are cheezy, but I've seen a few on this site that are darn attractive. I'd rather spend 5 bills on a good paint-over than 15 bills on a re-chrome weld job.

Why not get the whole tank chrome plated and then mask of the chrome and repaint the tank?


The factory really chromed the whole tank? Why haven't I seen a bunch of loops with the paint stripped? Is there just a base chrome layer that isn't polished shiny?

I thought it was possible to mask surrounding areas and strip/re-chrome locally. Guess I'm good until I see the results of my foil-rub.

The tank was originally completely chromed, but only the knee panel areas were polished during each step of the process. So, everywhere but the knee panel areas is dull and somewhat rough.

[Peter from Sch'dy]

I've used vinegar and BB's on the inside. Worked well enough but if rinsed with water the tank would flash. Used wd40 to flush out after with good results.
Best,
Peter

[Rusnak_322]

The tank was originally completely chromed, but only the knee panel areas were polished during each step of the process. So, everywhere but the knee panel areas is dull and somewhat rough.

The paint wouldn't stick to the chrome if it were as nice as the cut out areas.

$1500 for the chrome panels and you still have to paint the rest of the tanks, for less than $1,000 I bet you could get the Tank Shop to make a new aluminum tank that looks the same, polish the indents and then paint the rest or keep it all polished.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I've used vinegar and BB's on the inside. Worked well enough but if rinsed with water the tank would flash. Used wd40 to flush out after with good results.
Best,
Peter

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol after any flushing of the tank with water. Drain as much water as possible, then pour in a large (32 oz.) bottle of alcohol to disperse the rest.

[n3303j]

I'm in process of repairing and repainting my T3 tank. First step was to clean the interior with acetone and about a half pound of 1 inch drywall screws. Shake with vigor for about 30 minutes then empty. Tank was in service but drywall screws brought out a fair amount of rust. Second flush was about a pint of acetone and then sun dry.

Third step was to completely coat the tank interior with Caswell Dragons Blood sealer. Tank is well cared for but still it's 40 years old. Might as well coat it before problems pop up and while you aren't worried about protecting the outside finish.
http://www.caswellplating.com/dragons-blood-gas-tank-sealer.html
It's a bit of inexpensive peace of mind.

Then fill, sand, prime and paint knowing that at 72 I'm not going to have to worry about future tank leakage.

[brider]

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol after any flushing of the tank with water. Drain as much water as possible, then pour in a large (32 oz.) bottle of alcohol to disperse the rest.

Good stuff. I like the drywall screw application also, thanks!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Good stuff. I like the drywall screw application also, thanks!

I would only use drywall screws if you plan to seal it. They roughen up the inside and promote adhesion, but if you don't seal the inside they cause the tank to rust more quickly.

Just my opinion: sealers should be held in reserve as a "last resort" effort: severe rust, pinholes, etc. The only sealer I can recommend is Caswell Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer. If it's only lightly rusted, then the best course of action is to use electrolysis, milkstone remover, EvapoRust or some other similar method to remove the rust.

[steven c]

 As with all tank sealers prep is the key. I used Caswell in my Lemans, Eldo, and F7 tank, the Lemans is going on 10 years, the Guzzi's are fine but the F7's tank failed and started flaking off, to their credit when I called an ask about it they didn't know why it failed and sent me a new kit.

[Chesterfield]

THAT ain't going to happen. I agree that most paint-overs are cheezy, but I've seen a few on this site that are darn attractive. I'd rather spend 5 bills on a good paint-over than 15 bills on a re-chrome weld job.
.

Then it will look like a cheap restoration. Any one in the know will think so. But it's not my bike to make that mistake.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Factory "paint over":

[Rusnak_322]

Then it will look like a cheap restoration. Any one in the know will think so. But it's not my bike to make that mistake.

You better spend that extra grand because God forbid that some “in the knowl” people look down their noses at your bike.

[Chesterfield]

You better spend that extra grand because God forbid that some �in the knowl� people look down their noses at your bike.

They will, but if you don`t care then why care and go ahead and cheap it out. Wait till you try to sell it and see the comments you get. But it's yours to do with however you please and pleasing yourself is all that probably matters. My opinion doesn`t matter.

[Chesterfield]

The right way to do it. Only $1100 for clean, powder coat the inside, and chrome the panels.
http://www.cyclegarden.com/chrome.php

[GuzziNZ]

Has anyone tried the EASY CHROME system ?
Check it out on youtube, looks to good to be true. I wonder if this is the finish they use on the chrome tank panels of the new Eldo.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The right way to do it. Only $1100 for clean, powder coat the inside, and chrome the panels.
http://www.cyclegarden.com/chrome.php

I'll have to disagree. The "right way" is the way the factory did it - chrome the entire tank, polish the knee panels. Not cutting panels out and welding them back in.

[n3303j]

Hope none of this is cutting into your riding time?

There's always Rustoleum Barbecue Black and buff it with a rag. Gets a nice worn satin patina and easy to touch up. Prevents rust too.

[brider]

Then it will look like a cheap restoration. Any one in the know will think so. But it's not my bike to make that mistake.

I disagree vehemently with this statement (except the part about it's not your bike). And truth be told, I'd never spend 5 bills to have my tank re-painted, either; that's not my goal with this or any other bike I own. I was just hoping there was a cost-effective way to salvage what chrome I have left.

I personally see more beauty in a well-used bike that's mechanically up to snuff, even if it has a bad paint job (except this Ambo, can't stand that paint). On the '74 Eldo I wish I still had, I had the tank stripped and powder-coated white (chrome masked off), then pin-striped by a bootleg shop in Phoenix for about $250. Looked GREAT to me, not even bad at 5 ft away, but definitely NOT a "restoration", and I didn't price it that way when I sold it. There were tons of people "in the know" tripping over themselves to buy it, and I got a solid market price for it.

As it turns out, the foil-and-water method WORKED GREAT, I couldn't believe the almost-OK condition I was able to get the chrome back to! So I'll paint this tank in some fashion to get rid of the awful color it is, and retain the resultant chrome to fit in with the "rat" restoration.

[Demar]

Contact Eric Lussier at 2nd Ave Scooters. He has repainted at least 1 Loop. I have contacted him and he seems like a good guy. He will remove any dents in the tank, have the entire tank chemically stripped, have the inside (maybe the entire tank) nickel plated. He then chromes the lower half of the tank then masks the required chrome are, roughens the non-masked chrome and paints. We didn't get to the cost part but I liked the fact that the inside is nickel plated and the tank is not cut and welded.

http://2ndavenuescooters.com/?p=2433

[brider]

Contact Eric Lussier at 2nd Ave Scooters. He has repainted at least 1 Loop. I have contacted him and he seems like a good guy. He will remove any dents in the tank, have the entire tank chemically stripped, have the inside (maybe the entire tank) nickel plated. He then chromes the lower half of the tank then masks the required chrome are, roughens the non-masked chrome and paints. We didn't get to the cost part but I liked the fact that the inside is nickel plated and the tank is not cut and welded.

http://2ndavenuescooters.com/?p=2433

OMG, those dimensions of the pintstriping are the first I've seen, PRICELESS to give to a paint shop for repro. Thanks.

Does anyone know what saddlebags those are? I love them.