Best way to make PWM controller for electric vest

[antmanbee]

The draw of the vest is 5.4 Amps and I have found several PWMs that might work. The vest is a new but older model Gerbing's.
I don't necessarily want to reinvent the wheel and I thought some here may have already done this project with success and would be able to guide me.
I will possibly make 3 of them to have one for each bike. Alternatively just one and keep it with the vest. I may use a battery tender plug with a fuse on each bike and an adapter cable to the vest.
It needs to have an on/off switch, (that I can add to any design) and the variable controller in a small box. A low - medium - high switch would work also.

Some items I have been looking at, and some use wireless remote controls which is interesting.

Battery Tender leads, https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B004JVCKU4/ref=pd_ybh_a_36?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HS475AZV0ENQ6F5RZ8MV

15A DC Motor Pump Speed Controller,  https://www.amazon.com/RioRandTM-Upgraded-6V-90V-Motor-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HS475AZV0ENQ6F5RZ8MV

LED Lights PWM Dimming Controller , 12 Volt 8/10 Amp, https://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-LEDwholesalers-Lights-Dimming-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_ybh_a_40?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HS475AZV0ENQ6F5RZ8MV

12V DC Mini Remote Controller for Dimmable LED 12A peak,  https://www.amazon.com/SLBSTORES-Remote-Controller-Single-Dimmable/dp/B00MHKCTLE/ref=pd_ybh_a_45?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V4H4HRXDGSZ4RS8F85V5

Remote Wireless Control Dimmer LED 12VDC 6A, 72W,  https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Remote-Control-Controller-Wireless/dp/B014EZ4M0K/ref=pd_ybh_a_42?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V4H4HRXDGSZ4RS8F85V5

LED Light RF Dimmer Controller DC 12-24V 8A,  https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Single-Dimmer-Controller-Control/dp/B007B5V54M/ref=pd_ybh_a_41?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V4H4HRXDGSZ4RS8F85V5

12V-40V 10A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller CVT Speed Switch Module,  https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-12V-40V-Controller-Switch-Module/dp/B00QVONO20/ref=pd_ybh_a_54?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WRKEZ6DQFZ09JXP95PVG

[jas67]

Is it really worth the trouble?    You can get a heated gear controller with battery harness for $69 any day of the week:
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/firstgear-single-portable-heat-troller?gclid=CjwKCAiA4ILSBRA0EiwAsuuBLXLBVlmaof_is8j3vRtrdKzV7Hm59Z3y8-bd4bMppS0Lq5lp9BtHghoCr6oQAvD_BwE



$99 for a dual channel one (2nd channel for gloves, socks, pants, etc):
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/firstgear-dual-portable-heat-troller



When you build your own, you still have to package it, water proof it, etc.

[Wayne Orwig]

I design my own years ago. It is for a Widder vest, which has non-polarized plug, so the design is odd. But works well.

http://hogmountain.asuscomm.com/utils.html

[antmanbee]

I will only buy one if I can not make it myself. I am a Guzzi man. I live for projects.

I am not going to be using any other heated gear other than the vest, as I live in Florida and just want something for the cold days when it is 60 degrees.

This is also an interesting pwm controller that might work. 10 of them for $7.75 and I am then qualified to make a post in the "I'm so Frugal(CHEAP)" thread that was going on about 3 weeks ago.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Mini-3Key-Dimmer-Controller-For-Single-Color-3528-5050-LED-Lights-Strip-DC12V-/182644432072?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

5 dynamic modes
6 level speed
8 level brightness
easily change mode, speed and brightness by pressing 3 keys on its ultra slim body
auto memorize function
12V Output up to 144 watts

5 levels of Speed grade dynamic modes
Brightness level of static color: 5 levels
PWM control level: 256 levels
Comp. with :SMD 3528 , SMD 5050 ,SMD 5630 Led strip light
Function:  adjust the lighting brightness, wiring convenient, simple,intuitive.With wiring error protection.
With automatic memory function, can save your last setting
Keys presents, easily adjust the various modes, speed, color, and brightness

[antmanbee]

Wayne,

You use the NE555 timer to control and turn on and off the relay, But does the relay hold up to the repeated continuous switching on and off?

[Kiwi_Roy]

I'm like you, why buy something if you can have the fun of making it, a heat controller based on the 555 timer is something I have been putting off for a long time.
I was thinking transistor output but Wayne's relay based one makes perfect sense, I like the fact its not polarity sensitive.

[Wayne Orwig]

Wayne,

You use the NE555 timer to control and turn on and off the relay, But does the relay hold up to the repeated continuous switching on and off?

Was, I know it is crude, but a relay contact is generally good for millions of cycles with a resistive load. Mines has a lot of miles on it. And it simplified my Widder wiring being able to not worry about polarity.

[jas67]

I'm like you, why buy something if you can have the fun of making it, a heat controller based on the 555 timer is something I have been putting off for a long time.
I was thinking transistor output but Wayne's relay based one makes perfect sense, I like the fact its not polarity sensitive.

I guess it all depends on what phase of life you're in.     If you've got the time, great, go for it!     Between raising a teenager and help taking care of elder parents who can no longer drive, time is a premium.    What little project time I have this winter will be working on getting my Eldorado ready to ride this spring.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I guess it all depends on what phase of life you're in.     If you've got the time, great, go for it!     Between raising a teenager and help taking care of elder parents who can no longer drive, time is a premium.    What little project time I have this winter will be working on getting my Eldorado ready to ride this spring.

Exactly. I bought two single Gerbings controllers for $12.49 each, plus shipping.

Unfortunately, they don't seem to work on my Guzzis. It's really weird - engine off, I turn the knob, my jacket warms up perfectly and stays warm, the light is green. Start the engine and the light is initially green, then begins flashing red and I get no heat. Does the same when I'm running along at speed (Kuryakyn battery gauge showing 13+ volts) and turn it on - light green, warms up, then light goes blinking red and I'm cold again.  I've read that this is a problem with the single controllers when used on bikes with the Bosch charging system (Airheads and Guzzis, etc.).

So, I rewired the old on/off switch (that came with my Eclipse vest back in '86) with some of the extra Gerbing wiring. That works perfectly... 

[PeteS]

Are you sure you want to make one? Shipping on your parts will be more than this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-40V-10A-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-with-Knob-LW/182304262165?epid=1175122397&hash=item2a722e4815:g:94sAAOSwPCVX9dHY

Looks like the one in your last link.

Pete

[pyoungbl]

Making stuff certainly does give me a sense of accomplishment.  I'm making some kick ass garage door hinges right now, stronger than anything I could find commercially.  At the same time I have no problem paying for a device I might have to prototype a few times and still not equal what I can buy.  Case in point:  Warm & Safe makes a heat controller that is waterproof and operates on a variable time principle.  At low power the electrons only flow for a fraction of the time.  As you turn up the 'heat' they flow for a greater percentage of the time.  The benefits are (1) no wasted electrons like you get with a rheostat and (2) infinite variation in heat (only as much as you need, not going to burn up on a moderately chilly day).  http://www.warmnsafe.com/single-portable-heat-troller-coax/

I have over 20 years experience with the Warm & Safe stuff.  I do not leave home without it.

Peter Y.

[antmanbee]

I most likely wont buy individual parts and construct a circuit. I am interested in what is available that is designed for another purpose that I can use and or modify for a controller for a vest.
The PWMs that I have found are usually from 2 categories, LED light dimmer controllers and motor controllers. The motor controllers usually have a heatsink and the ability to handle more current.
I only need 5.4A, but I don't trust the ratings on most of those devices, so if I  get a device with double what I need it will probably be OK.
The other variable is to what degree these different devices will vary the PWM and at what frequency and how that relates to adjusting the heat level of the vest.
Then I think of ergonomics, how easy it will be to hook up and operate with gloves on. The device with the key chain remote and just 3 buttons is intriguing because the remote could be mounted with velcro or something near the handlebar controls and there would be no wires to deal with and it might be easy to adjust the heat level.

[antmanbee]

Making stuff certainly does give me a sense of accomplishment.  I'm making some kick ass garage door hinges right now, stronger than anything I could find commercially.  At the same time I have no problem paying for a device I might have to prototype a few times and still not equal what I can buy.  Case in point:  Warm & Safe makes a heat controller that is waterproof and operates on a variable time principle.  At low power the electrons only flow for a fraction of the time.  As you turn up the 'heat' they flow for a greater percentage of the time.  The benefits are (1) no wasted electrons like you get with a rheostat and (2) infinite variation in heat (only as much as you need, not going to burn up on a moderately chilly day).  http://www.warmnsafe.com/single-portable-heat-troller-coax/

I have over 20 years experience with the Warm & Safe stuff.  I do not leave home without it.

Peter Y.

That is what a PWM controller does. The Warm and Safe controller is PWM. It shuts the power on and off for varying lengths of time. Same with Waynes controller with a relay and the timer. A rheostat is what to avoid for some of the reasons you stated.

[PeteS]

The frequency of the PWM is not critical since you are essentially driving a resistor. For motors its likely well under 1khz. Power is area under the curve regardless of frequency. It should vary from zero on to always on as you increase the pot.


Pete

[antmanbee]

I purchased 3 different kinds to test out, 2 with RF remotes and one just with 3 buttons on the device. Got a couple of each. I will take them apart and maybe add heatsinks if possible and then waterproof. The 2 with remotes are on a slow boat from china probably, so it will be at least a few weeks before I start tweaking.