3D printing

[rdbandkab]

I wonder how difficult it would be (or cost efficient) to 3D print fuel tank wings for the Breva...   I'm thinking a 3D scan of the originals for starters.
get rid of the plastichrome "spontoons" first and maybe leave smooth or lay in a strip of driving lights or "1100" in some interesting font.

[kirb]

Very hard.

The unit has to be solid from the base to the tip with no 'overhanging'. You can print a pyramid, but you can't print a ball... if that helps. Printing a hollow object is not going to work either... The software also will take thicker items and 'web' filler in the middle to save on print material.

3D printing is cool, but it has limitations depending on the object and it's orientation when printing.

It might be easier to make a mold to create your own carbon fiber.

[Chuck in Indiana]

It could be done, but not on the toy 3D printers that everyone has. I looked into it, and it was a $400,000 buy in.

[rodekyll]

It could be done, but not on the toy 3D printers that everyone has. I looked into it, and it was a $400,000 buy in.

When you buy it, can I come over? 

[romanoaf]

I have done similar things with my Guzzi. Its very doable on a home machine, albeit one that has a large enough print surface (home machines have come a long way on the last couple years). You wont get cast or formed uniformity, but with ABS plastic you can chemically smooth out ridge lines that can look pretty close to formed, or if you choose to sand smooth and paint it can look professional. Youd want to print the exposed face facing upwards so that the support structure overhangs won't show. CAD'ing is the most time consuming step- and you'll have to go through some prototyping for everything to fit properly. Some of the things I've printed for my bikes:

[romanoaf]

As for cost efficiency- good filament is around 20-30USD per kilo- that would likely be enough to print the pair of those. Design and prototyping time is where it costs.

[F-22]

Very hard.

The unit has to be solid from the base to the tip with no 'overhanging'. You can print a pyramid, but you can't print a ball... if that helps. Printing a hollow object is not going to work either... The software also will take thicker items and 'web' filler in the middle to save on print material.

3D printing is cool, but it has limitations depending on the object and it's orientation when printing.

It might be easier to make a mold to create your own carbon fiber.

Most 3D printers actually are capable of printing a ball (would need a larger base that you later break off for better first layer adhesion). No problem at all for laser sintering, but even FDM (the ones that squirt hot plastic in lines) printers can do small overhangs without a problem with most materials. If the overhangs are long, you need some support structures that are broken off when it is done, or for the best surface finish there are supports that can be dissolved in water later (but you need a multi-material printer). The water dissolvable stuff is also nice for making molds. If you use very fine layer height (some FDM even go to 50 microns, sintering/SLS is around 20 microns and nearly invisible) there will be minimal stepping. Also a good trick when making such parts with lots of material inside is to actually print them as a hollow shell with some 2 or 3 outer layers. Then when you would have an empty ball, you can drill a tiny hole and inject resin, use a hot glue gun or even expandable foam. Resin is probably the best, makes the item very strong...


I also had some fun projects with 3d printing. I was converting an R100RT into a CS, and the rear badge was in rough shape, and I wanted something special. Made a custom badge model and printed it in nylon (best material for functional stuff, but a bit hard to print).

and here it is painted and on the bike:

I would have done better if I was doing it again. ABS or PETG material would probably be just fine, and would make a smoother print. Then it would be best to coat it in a layer of resin and sand it smooth. I also made a mess with the glue. But I am happy with the results.

Also made a simple rev counter housing for my Monster 600 (and ordered a 5$ digital rev counter that goes inside) that somewhat fits the styling. If I was doing it again, I'd make it so that it would mount directly to the speedometer assembly, not with a bracket like it is now.


Also modeled a chain cover for my Ducati, but I have not yet printed it.


Used to pay 20€ per print to someone. Now I decided to buy one (a mk3 Prusa i3, still waiting for it to arrive), there's loads of stuff that can be made in small quantities (f.e. I have a few 70's Guzzi switches with the turn signal button broken, and I think that could easily be replicated).
I really want to know how the printed chainguard will resist engine temperature. Some materials are better for such stuff (and some are even flame retardant).


The problem is most printers only have about 20x20x20 build area. There are larger ones, but with larger prices (or chinesium components).

[flower_king001]

or perhaps carbon wrap them like I did.