Author Topic: Czakky’s T3  (Read 44461 times)

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #120 on: November 10, 2019, 07:43:56 PM »
I suppose there is a safety issue with the dual reserves. I get it dueling banjos it is.
Thanks

Offline 1down5up

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #121 on: November 10, 2019, 07:50:04 PM »
So one of my winter issues to sort is the metal crossover fuel line.
I’m wondering though. Why not just run a fuel line from each petcock to the carb?

I’m sure this has been asked before...

Incase one side of your tank runs dry before the other, though dual banjos will also do the trick, with a hose connecting the carbs

Online wirespokes

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #122 on: November 10, 2019, 08:49:02 PM »
In answer to the LED instead of an incandescent bulb for the charge light function: The alternator has no permanent magnets to generate electricity. Instead, the rotor is an electromagnet that generates an electrical flow in the windings around it (the stator).

The small electrical current through the charge light goes to the rotor to initially jump start the electromagnet. Once started, it generates it's own electricity which is fed back into it.

LEDs don't pass enough current to jump start the rotor.

In your case, the rotor has most likely become magnetized to some degree and doesn't need the current that comes through the charge light. Who knows how long this will continue. I've heard of it lasting a year or more. Or it may suddenly not charge one day.

Do as Charlie suggested and install a jumper - I think it's a 250 or 150 ohm resistor - perhaps five watts. I can get the data for you if you want, but it's not critical. If nothing else, approximate the current the original bulb would have flowed.

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #123 on: November 10, 2019, 09:27:53 PM »
Copy that Wirespokes. I will throw in that resistor.

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #124 on: November 10, 2019, 09:40:04 PM »
Copy that Wirespokes. I will throw in that resistor.

Greg Bender will sell you a ready made wire with the resistor already in it. $6.75.

28727200: Rectifier to fuse panel.


Charlie

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #125 on: November 26, 2019, 07:43:23 PM »
Ok on to the rear drive.... I’ve got it apart to heli-coil the drain and “level” plugs. I had a big (inner) seal fail this summer. Replaced and she’s been dry.


Here’s my question: The small (outer) seal is new afaik, should I replace it while I’ve got the box apart?

Seems like I could screw a few things up in the process...

Thanks for any input.

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #126 on: November 26, 2019, 08:27:36 PM »
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."  :wink:
Charlie

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #127 on: November 26, 2019, 08:47:23 PM »
You don’t have to tell me twice! The roller bearing is $70 if/when I screw it up.

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #128 on: December 08, 2019, 07:43:17 PM »
Still a ton of winter left and I’ve got a potential issue that keeps me up at night.

I did the Gilardoni cylinder thing last winter, put about 5k miles on her and all is good.
Then sometime late this summer I stumble on the directions for a SB Gilardoni set.
I don’t remember any discernible difference between the top two rings but the instructions show one having a cleft.

If I got this backwards how bad would it be? If this is what I did do I need a re-hone?

Not really to excited to get the whole top end gasket set again, but will if it’s crucial.

Thanks again

oldbike54

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #129 on: December 08, 2019, 07:59:04 PM »
Still a ton of winter left and I’ve got a potential issue that keeps me up at night.

I did the Gilardoni cylinder thing last winter, put about 5k miles on her and all is good.
Then sometime late this summer I stumble on the directions for a SB Gilardoni set.
I don’t remember any discernible difference between the top two rings but the instructions show one having a cleft.

If I got this backwards how bad would it be? If this is what I did do I need a re-hone?

Not really to excited to get the whole top end gasket set again, but will if it’s crucial.

Thanks again

 Oh dang , I hate it when that happens  :laugh:

 Dusty

Offline Tom H

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #130 on: December 09, 2019, 12:28:25 AM »
JMHO, I don't think you would have any damage at this point. I think if you had a ring up side down, it just wouldn't seal correctly. If you swapped top ring to middle, there I'm not sure. If the rings are the same thickness, there should be no problem.

If your unsure if they are in correctly, pull it apart. Your bike will thank you in the long run.

Tom
2004 Cali EV Touring
1972 Eldo
1970 Ambo V1000
1973 R75/5 SWB with Toaster
1973 R75/5 LWB
2007 HD Street Bob
1953 Triumph 6T (one day it will be on the road!)

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #131 on: December 09, 2019, 04:33:59 AM »
I’m pretty confident that the rings are facing the correct way, they are labeled “Top”.
That makes me a bit more motivated. I’m not super excited  to go through the new gasket re-torque process again.
Live and learn

Thanks for the input.

Offline Tom H

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #132 on: December 09, 2019, 10:59:36 AM »
You said you found directions for a "SB" set.

A little latter today, I'll see if I can find the directions that came with the set for my Eldo and see what it says.

Tom
2004 Cali EV Touring
1972 Eldo
1970 Ambo V1000
1973 R75/5 SWB with Toaster
1973 R75/5 LWB
2007 HD Street Bob
1953 Triumph 6T (one day it will be on the road!)

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #133 on: December 09, 2019, 11:28:58 AM »
You said you found directions for a "SB" set.

A little latter today, I'll see if I can find the directions that came with the set for my Eldo and see what it says.

Tom

That would be awesome!
Thanks

Offline Tom H

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #134 on: December 09, 2019, 01:33:24 PM »
It's in Italian and if you look it over, it I think talks about the 850. Here you go:





Hope this helps,
Tom
2004 Cali EV Touring
1972 Eldo
1970 Ambo V1000
1973 R75/5 SWB with Toaster
1973 R75/5 LWB
2007 HD Street Bob
1953 Triumph 6T (one day it will be on the road!)

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #135 on: December 09, 2019, 03:30:01 PM »
I’ll get the gaskets ordered...

Thanks again Tom!

Offline Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #136 on: December 09, 2019, 03:51:57 PM »
Two hours and it'll be done. You and it will feel better.. :smiley:
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
95 Skorpion tour
25 Triumph Speed 900
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
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czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #137 on: December 09, 2019, 05:41:12 PM »
Ok ok I’ll get to it.

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #138 on: December 12, 2019, 07:16:21 PM »
Well I broke a freakin ring! The kicker is I’m pretty sure I had it right.
Live and learn...
Now I’ve got to hone a cylinder anyway.

I guess I’ll use this opportunity to bring my heads to the machine shop.

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #139 on: December 12, 2019, 08:08:10 PM »
Not sure you'll want to hone a Nikasil cylinder.
Charlie

Online Frenchfrog

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #140 on: December 13, 2019, 03:20:32 AM »
According to HMB in Germany it is required.....first and only place I have ever read that however.Never done it on any nicasil bores ( not Many !) and never had issues but.....

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #141 on: December 13, 2019, 06:18:00 PM »
I think I’ll just lightly scuff with a scotch brite.

Offline moto-uno

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #142 on: December 14, 2019, 07:43:47 PM »
 Not too sure the cylinder honing is a necessity , and I'm sure I'll hear a lot about this , but if the head gskts aren't damaged I've
reused them numerous times on a number of different bikes and they've never needed a re-torquing .  :thumb: . I do however replace
the cyl. base gskts .  Peter

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #143 on: December 24, 2019, 04:50:17 PM »
So first off MG Cycle is awesome. They sent me a spare ring they had laying around the shop.
But now I’m even more confused...

I asked for a top compression ring for an 83mm Gilardoni ring set.

I’ve reviewed the “English” instructions posted on the This Old Tractor website.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_gilardoni_cylinder-_piston-_ring_installation_instructions.html

It says something about certain small blocks having chrome compression rings (top) and all others not identified also having a chrome top ring. Then the picture shows a cleft on the second ring for big blocks is the way I read it.

My original ring set has a chrome-ish ring with a slight cleft and a clearly cleft middle ring(assuming) that was matte.
The new ring has zero cleft and was verified as being a top/compression ring from MG.

I just don’t want to get this wrong.

Does anybody know what goes where? I might be overthinking this but I just want to be done with this and not have to do this again....

Thanks
Bill


Offline Tom H

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #144 on: December 24, 2019, 10:17:54 PM »
Look at the pics I posted and the link you posted. The 750/850 should have the "cleft" ring in the middle per the instructions. If I remember right, the rings looked like the instruction sheet.  I hate to say this, but if I read your post right, you had two "cleft" rings on one piston. I'm wondering what is on the other side? Or was it a MFG change for the set you have?

Unless someone like Charlie says differently, that is how I would do it and IIRR is how I assembled my bikes.

Tom
2004 Cali EV Touring
1972 Eldo
1970 Ambo V1000
1973 R75/5 SWB with Toaster
1973 R75/5 LWB
2007 HD Street Bob
1953 Triumph 6T (one day it will be on the road!)

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #145 on: December 30, 2019, 03:28:12 PM »
The rings are going to have to wait, I have a suspicion on what I was seeing.

My heads are at the machine shop but I’m wondering if anybody knows what the valve spring pressure open/closed is supposed to be? I had this for a v11 Sport head
Outside spring
load of 20.33-22.47 Kg at 35 mm (valve closed)

load of 60.8-67.2 Kg at 24.4 mm (valve open)

Inside
load of 9.215-10.185 Kg at 33.5 mm (valve closed)

Is it the same?

Thanks

load of 31.35-34.65 at 22.9 mm (valve open)

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #146 on: December 30, 2019, 04:07:15 PM »
The rings are going to have to wait, I have a suspicion on what I was seeing.

My heads are at the machine shop but I’m wondering if anybody knows what the valve spring pressure open/closed is supposed to be? I had this for a v11 Sport head
Outside spring
load of 20.33-22.47 Kg at 35 mm (valve closed)

load of 60.8-67.2 Kg at 24.4 mm (valve open)

Inside
load of 9.215-10.185 Kg at 33.5 mm (valve closed)

Is it the same?

Thanks

load of 31.35-34.65 at 22.9 mm (valve open)

Pertinent data here: http://thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_v7sport_750s_850t.pdf

PDF page 19, manual page 17.
Charlie

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #147 on: December 30, 2019, 04:24:49 PM »
Dangit, I thought I looked there.

Thanks buddy.

czakky82

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #148 on: January 07, 2020, 06:55:51 PM »
After assembling this top end for what feels like the 100th time I noticed weird wear marks on my pushrods, like on the rod itself. My first thought was that must’ve been the wrong head gasket. But it was only on one rod on each side (intake left, exhaust right). Also no wear on the old gasket. To make a long story short it looks like there must be some part of the cylinder (gilardoni 83mm) not quite cast right.  :angry:

Looks like I’m not the first to suffer thus either.

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=82697.0

How lazy would I be if I just removed a bit more material off the push rod? I’m just sick of taking this thing apart, plus I just torqued everything together with fresh gaskets.

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: Czakky’s T3
« Reply #149 on: January 07, 2020, 08:18:21 PM »
After assembling this top end for what feels like the 100th time I noticed weird wear marks on my pushrods, like on the rod itself. My first thought was that must’ve been the wrong head gasket. But it was only on one rod on each side (intake left, exhaust right). Also no wear on the old gasket. To make a long story short it looks like there must be some part of the cylinder (gilardoni 83mm) not quite cast right.  :angry:

Looks like I’m not the first to suffer thus either.

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=82697.0

How lazy would I be if I just removed a bit more material off the push rod? I’m just sick of taking this thing apart, plus I just torqued everything together with fresh gaskets.

IIRC, the pushrod is a hollow tube, so removing material from it could make the wall thickness too thin for adequate strength.
Charlie

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