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« Last post by SemperVee on August 28, 2025, 02:46:44 PM »
Best way is risers if you can find a used set of Heli-Bars. I have those on my 07 Norge. World of comfort difference. Or less expensive 1 inch risers made for it.
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« Last post by wirespokes on August 28, 2025, 02:36:27 PM »
I've got another regulator here, but it's got seven leads rather than 6. Is there a place that explains what they are and whether it'll work for me?
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Now to the group, glad to be here. Just bought my first Moto Guzzi, an '07 Norge GT (with electric windshield). Love the bike but would love it more if had slightly less reach to the bars. I don't need them higher, just back a bit. Anyone know of a way to do that?
Thanks!
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« Last post by Kurt on August 28, 2025, 02:22:27 PM »
As an owner of both Moto Guzzis and a BMW airhead, I suspect she’s quite biased, lol. There are some things on this boxer that I find myself wondering what the Hale-Bopp they were thinking.
Yeah. I have an R80RT and it is pretty easy to work on. The fairing gets in the way sometimes. But changing fluids is pretty straight forward (except for fork oil because of said fairing). I do like the way that the oil for the Guzzi is red like Chianti and the oil for the airhead is amber like beer. Cultural differences I guess!
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Hey Guzzi-heads. Tom Hall checking in from San Diego. 58 yrs old, yacht broker / captain / sailing instructor. Just bough my first Guzzi, a '07 Norge.
A close friend in OR has several, and many over the years, so I've been keen to get one for a while. Cheers!
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« Last post by Dirk_S on August 28, 2025, 02:00:17 PM »
Thanks all! I finally got it in. All I needed was a third hand. I got the Frau to hold a paint stick with the plug on it while I started the drain plug.
She's German and she kept muttering something about Italian engineering compared to German.
As an owner of both Moto Guzzis and a BMW airhead, I suspect she’s quite biased, lol. There are some things on this boxer that I find myself wondering what the Hale-Bopp they were thinking.
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« Last post by Tom H on August 28, 2025, 01:59:34 PM »
It's most likely the rear main seal. It can be replaced without pulling the rear main bearing. When removing the seal, be careful not to gouge the crank.
While your in there, before pulling the seal. If you have a compressor of some sort to blow air INTO the dip stick hole with a rag or the like to seal the hole better. Also plug the breather tubes with a rag or the like. Doesn't take a lot of pressure, so don't get carried away. Get a cup of soapy water and brush around the seal, the bearing carrier where it's in the block and the breather tube. Many times it might be the gasket for the rear carrier, but if your replacing the gasket, might as well do the seal.
Now is also a good time to look close at your clutch set, throw out bearing, u joint, boot and the u joint carrier bearing. Might just want to do the trans input and output seals while your there. If in doubt, change it out!
Tom
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« Last post by Kurt on August 28, 2025, 01:36:43 PM »
Thanks all! I finally got it in. All I needed was a third hand. I got the Frau to hold a paint stick with the plug on it while I started the drain plug.
She's German and she kept muttering something about Italian engineering compared to German.
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« Last post by wirespokes on August 28, 2025, 01:21:52 PM »
Motorad Elektrik used to put epoxy or a similar coating on the winding near the slip rings to help keep them in place. Many years ago that was what we did with slot car motors too.
Checking their website now I am not sure he still does rewinds any more.
Pete
I've ridden airheads many thousands of miles and don't recall a rotor ever going bad. But my spare did help others out. I think Motorad Elektrik just sources them from China now. When he first started out he guaranteed them. There were racers who regularly returned them. Rick kept working on ways to solve the issue and eventually they were very robust and rarely failed.
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« Last post by Stevex on August 28, 2025, 01:14:39 PM »
About a year ago I crabbed the frame, removed the gearbox and clutch and finally sealed up the camshaft bung with jbweld, a job I'd put off for years. Fast forward to this year and the oil leaking from the bell housing has increased. Im now thinking the crank rear seal may have let go as well. Until I get in there again, I won't know for sure, but I'd like to be pre armed with some info.
If it is the crank seal, I'd be looking to replace the seal without removing the crank rear support housing.
Im sure there are owners out there who have done this and Im looking for advice on how best to do it if anyone can help.
Are there replacement viton seals out there too?
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