'07 Norge & bracing myself for Guzzidiag swearing session

[brider]

Ref: https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0 , New Improved Guzzidiag Tutorial

I downloaded the software to my Windows laptop and tried to order the cables from Lonelec today (keep getting message "the google captcha is down, try later..."??), but it's the pre-reading of all the stuff written about using Guzzidiag to troubleshoot that has me sweating.

1. Does a person need his Windows laptop to merely diagnose why a dash warning light is coming on? Is a standard auto OBD II scanner of no use? What are the options if you're 1,000 mi from home?

2. Will the Guzzidiag software tell me why my angry red triangle lights up sometimes? Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't, and I've cleared codes and errors just from the Mode/Diagnostic function on the handlebar control itself, so I suppose I should NOT do this prior to running GD.

Thanks for any comments. That damn angry red triangle has me PO-ed. I know I need to correct it but I wish the dash messages would tell me SOMETHING, like whether I can still ride it, or park it before imminent engine damage. It never comes on while riding, only @ initial key "on". Sometimes it doesn't come on. My old Cal 2 never put me thru that aggravation, just sayin'.

[Huzo]

Ok.
 If your red triangle of death illuminates, it is very likely that you have an oil presssure switch on the way out.
So…
Check that the bike does have adequate oil and do this test.
Next time the RToD (red triangle of death) comes on, while riding at 60 mph pull in the clutch, switch the engine off and coast along with the clutch in for a few seconds, let the clutch out and WITHOUT opening any throttle, flick the key back on and release the clutch.
London to a brick, the engine will fire up and the light will go out…
That’ll mean it’s a gone oil switch.
They last about 60,000 km and my bike has had 2 or three. It is not a horrible job to do one.
Just don’t try any lame arsed short cuts trying to “save time” by doing it with the tank on.
I’ll help you through the steps if you need to go in…

[Tom H]

You can get the cables on Amazon if your in a hurry.

If it's something with your bike that will throw a code, GD will read it.

Huzo is probably on to something. Read about that before.

If your concerned about having GD with you. Look into a Windows OS 8-10" tablet. I use a 8" and I bought a fold over case for it that has a built in mini, but full function keyboard. Also, get a multi USB adapter as most tablets only have one USB port that is usually Micro like a phone. Your cables need the old standard large USB.

Tom

[brider]

 If your red triangle of death illuminates, it is very likely that you have an oil presssure switch on the way out.
...switch the engine off and coast along with the clutch in for a few seconds, let the clutch out and WITHOUT opening any throttle, flick the key back on and release the clutch.

The procedure above sounds like a lot of fun, but the clutch-release procedure is contradictory; do I release the clutch before or after I turn the key back on?

So the RToD is a primary indication of an oil pressure-switch problem? I'm not trying to be a dick, but is there a dash light for an oil-pressure pressure problem? I mean, when that light comes on, am I operating at low oil pressure? Does the RToD record a code (if it IS an oil pressure switch problem) that GD will read and report as such?

I'll try the procedure this weekend and report back, and also try again to order the GD cables. I'll also read up here on switch-replacement threads.

I recall the PO telling me the "oil-thingy" was fixed already, and I remember reading there was chronic or factory problem, guess I should've paid more attention but I was smitten by the shiny-new red beauty and couldn't formulate coherent thoughts.

[Vagrant]

I could be all wet, but my old memory seems to be telling me the red 07 bikes had faulty oil pumps. You would think by now it would have been replaced.

[MCR]

Take a look here: over the oil pressure sensor the second possible cause is this on Norge Breva, Stelvio 1200 8V
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=87885.0

Happened both in sequence on my Norge

[Huzo]

The red ‘07s were in around the suspect period, mine just missed but I’ve put in a new pump anyway.
The procedure I outlined is fundamentally to get the bike running along with the key off and spinning over.
So.
Ride along at 60 mph.
Pull in the clutch.
Turn the key off with your right hand.
Then let the clutch out.
While the engine is spinning over, turn the key on.
The light WILL go out…
It’s the switch in that case.
Mine is a red ‘07, I’ve been through it.

[GuzziOrDeath]

Before going into panic mode about the oil pump or pressure switch, why not check the codes?

Go into the Diagnosis menu on the dash, enter the service code 28315, and check the error codes.

You'll see A & M with an X. A = Active, M = memorised. Codes are listed in the service manual.

[brider]

You'll see A & M with an X. A = Active, M = memorised. Codes are listed in the service manual.

YES! Thanks for this description, I'll look at them.

And I was going to ask you Huzo, what the purpose was of the on-the-road procedure you're describing. Seems to me that the act of letting the clutch out in-gear with the key off back-drives the oil pump to provide pressure; is THIS why the light won't come back on when I turn the key back on? Still not sure how this demonstrates a faulty switch, but I won't second-guess your experience. Test will be later today.

[brider]

Take a look here: over the oil pressure sensor the second possible cause is this on Norge Breva, Stelvio 1200 8V
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=87885.0

Happened both in sequence on my Norge

Thanks a BUNCH for that link, adds more history to the RToD and forces me to "get to know" my Norge!

[Huzo]

YES! Thanks for this description, I'll look at them.

And I was going to ask you Huzo, what the purpose was of the on-the-road procedure you're describing. Seems to me that the act of letting the clutch out in-gear with the key off back-drives the oil pump to provide pressure; is THIS why the light won't come back on when I turn the key back on? Still not sure how this demonstrates a faulty switch, but I won't second-guess your experience. Test will be later today.

It seems to work but I don’t have the reason.