Extract bolt?

[Kev m]

In fact that raises a question I've been thinking about posing. When do you use loctite vs. anti-seize vs. dry threads?

Not scientific, but what I've gathered over the years:

* Dry - most fasteners that I'm not worried about and/or that have a torque spec which is dry.

* Anti-seize - any fastener that I'm not worried about loosening, but I am worried about locking in place from galvanic corrosion or other factors.

* Threadlock - any fastener that I am worried about loosening (and am not worried the heat will be too much for the compound) and/or a fastener that I'm worried about galvanic corrosion on but also worried and it loosening so I don't really want anti-seize.

[ridingron]

I would anti-seize it and torque it to spec. using a hex head screw (as you mentioned).

Have you figured out why the bolt was so hard to remove? Poor choice of fastener by manufacturer? Corrosion? Loctite too strong?

[Perazzimx14]

I would anti-seize it and torque it to spec. using a hex head screw (as you mentioned).

Have you figured out why the bolt was so hard to remove? Poor choice of fastener by manufacturer? Corrosion? Loctite too strong?

Antizeize coupled with torque to spec or it will end up in the fastener being grossly over-torqued. Pick one or the other, not both.

If you look at the bolt in the original picture the original finish was completely gone and the part was rusted. No doubt corrosion was the main cuplrit. In the end it really doesn't matter if it was corrosion, tightened to much, thread lock compound etc. The broken piece has been removed and ready for a new.

[faffi]

I tried some supposedly good cheap ones when I first bought the bike.  IKON was the brand.  Good value they said.  Used to be  KONI or some such story.
Compression and damping with one adjustment!  They SUCKED.  I knew in 5 miles I wasted 300 bucks.  Point is I spent twice.  My error.  Buy quality the first time.  It's cheaper.

I had a set of IKONS made for my old KZ650 - 21 mm longer than stock with softer than stock springs since I always ride solo. At first they felt harsh, but after setting the rebound to the minimum setting, they worked very well for comfort. Middle of the 3 settings gave ample control for spirited (as spirited as you can get on a bike from the 70s) riding on bumpy roads. Also had a pair intended for the VF1100 Magna fitted to my Honda VT500FT Ascot, again longer than stock for more cornering clearance. They also worked fine. As did the set from a KZ1000 I fitted to my KZ400 (you know by now, more cornering clearance needed). No, they are not Ohlins, but my experience have been positive. And they last a long time, and you can add damping as/when they wear.

When fitted to older big twin Guzzis, however, the IKON/KONI shocks have their limitations from what I have read. For instance, the Mille came with Konis, and they were generally not liked by test riders. It was speculated that the wheel travel of only 70mm was the culprit, or that Koni had not managed to find a shock that could cope with both solo and 2-up riding while offering sufficient comfort with such little travel.

BTW, I believe every basic shock that only have rebound adjuster will also to a small amount affect compression damping. If you want a better ride combined with more control, you are looking at a different price range and more advance designs, most likely.