New 20 ounce tumblers available now! Forum donation credit with purchase. https://www.wildguzzi.com/Products/products.htm#Tumbler
Beautiful Charlie. So these cases are indeed the vapor blasted cases..? Looks great. rad__
Looking forward in seeing the re-zinced parts. And the paint job as well. Will the painter redo the stripes, or are those decals?Edit: Looks like paint, just looked closer.
Your lift there where the painted parts are sitting on almost looks like a color match!
Pulled the tank down off the shelf and remove the badges from it and the sidecovers so I could take some photos to send to the shop I'm thinking about using for paint this time. Pins apparently were broken off the badges (common) so they were stuck in place with some sort of adhesive. Pointing out the dent in the right front. Then I went looking for trouble spots and found plenty. A bunch of holes along the left side along the bottom. A replacement (used) tank is the better part of $400, so I'm sending this one to a friend of a friend to be repaired. Nothing to do but move on and try to get something done. Cleaning up the hardware to be sent off to be zinc-plated. Left bin are parts to be degreased, middle is parts needing to be wire brushed, right are finished ones. All done now, just need to box it up and send it off. Gathered all of the chrome bits together (along with a few V7 Sport bits) to shoot photos to send to several chrome platers so I can get estimates. Some bits I may not send (spring retainers, heat shield) and other still require some work before they go (holes filled that someone drilled in the shift lever, removing the terminal block, mounts and dents from headlight bucket).
Charlie,What is the recommended method for fixing a tank like this? Solder?thanks,Ed
It's going to a "metal man" to have the perforated section cut out and new metal welded in. Soldering it would just be a "band-aid" fix IMO.
Need to place another order with Mdina Italia (fork tubes and sprockets), but I'm having a hard to clicking on the "Place Order" button. My credit card screams every time I get ready to.
Agreed. I was curious since you mentioned using a sealant on a Gravely tank with pinholes in another thread that maybe there might be a magical fix out there somewhere that did not require surgery.I'm sure some will swear by JB Weld, but that is also a band-aid. When it comes to containing gasoline above a hot engine, fixing it right makes a lot of sense. Solid metal is peace of mind.
If this was just going be some "rider quality" Morini, I'd would just seal it and forget it. But, this will be an almost complete restoration and I want it to be as well done as possible. I'll still be sealing the tank after the repairs have been made.
I bet it will be more than 'an almost complete restoration' - more like a complete resurrection.
The new headpipes and exhaust nuts I ordered on Dec. 15th are stuck somewhere in Post Italiane purgatory. Tracking shows them being in the same facility waiting to move to the next since Dec. 17th. Marino Setti is doing his best to find out WTH is going on. Edit: I guess the log jam finally broke free at Post Italiane. Tracking shows my parcel as being moved through Customs in NY! Finally! Moral of this story: don't order anything from Italy until well after the holidays.
In the last photo, the left set were vapor blasted by the customer, the right set (mine) were High-Volume, Low-Pressure bead blasted.
Charlie,After the cases are bead blasted or vapor blasted, with they be treated in any way to prevent future corrosion/preserve that "like new" look?
I haven't found it to be necessary.
Good to know. Thanks. Back in the 70's, I loved Kalgard's Gun Kote. Super durable and color was dependent on number of coats. A couple light coats were not even visible.
After vapour blasting and once I have finished assembling the engine / hub / etc... I wash down the exposed alloy with brake cleaner and then spray on a mist of ACF-50. I buy the ACF-50 in a 1 gallon bulk container (will last a life time) and pour it into a mister bottle, hand mist the part and then with a clean rag wipe it down. In a couple days I wipe down the part again and then just leave it. Once coated the part will resist oxidation for a very long time, probably good for a couple years of riding and washing.
Page created in 0.025 seconds with 24 queries.