how do I remove the hub from my cast lemans rims?

[amamet]

I need to remove the rear hub so I can have my rims powder coated.  c-clip is out, bearings are out.  I don't have a press.  tried heating and tapping out with block of wood.  obviously no luck, didnt want to hit it too hard. more heat?  needs a press?
thx
allen
oh, also, it has a raised x patern going around it.  is that normal for an original hub?  I can post a photo of it later

[guzzisteve]

I need to remove the rear hub so I can have my rims powder coated.  c-clip is out, bearings are out.  I don't have a press.  tried heating and tapping out with block of wood.  obviously no luck, didnt want to hit it too hard. more heat?  needs a press?
thx
allen
oh, also, it has a raised x patern going around it.  is that normal for an original hub?  I can post a photo of it later

This is what, take a die grinder & cut a slot, soak & beat the crap out of it. The   X   is grooves for grease, no lube, it's rusted as 1.
New inner hubs are $200 and no one has one, not a stocking item. Got mine from MG and waited. I just did 2 of them.

[amamet]

I don't want to destroy it, id like to reuse it.  is it a bad idea to reuse?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I would not bother removing it. Any powdercoater worth a crap will be able to mask it to protect it.

[amamet]

thx Charlie,  will do

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I would leave it as already posted and only remove it if being replaced with a new one (US$290/AU$399)

I can not say for a cast wheel but on my Eldorado the original worn splined insert was so tight I stripped the wheel (again) so the wheel hub could go in the oven then pressed it out.
I would guess the powder coat baking temperature would have little effect on the interference fit.

It's different for the cush drive wheels, and an even tighter fit.

[guzzisteve]

If you don't service it, it bonds.  Real pia, both of mine would not hold bearings. They wouldn't come apart either not being serviced since new.
If you don't have to, I wouldn't  just like Charlie says.  You don't notice if it moves or not in cush.

[Roebling3]

Like Charlie and others; +1 No hub removal required. I've had several cast wheels powder coated. Most recent were Stone wheels off a new V7. Do not reuse the original bearings! They are no doubt flat spotted from being tapped out/extracted.  R3~

[bigbikerrick]

Is that something we can spray penetrating oil into during tire changes to keep it from becoming "frozen" like that? Or would that have no beneficial effect in this application?
Rick.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Is that something we can spray penetrating oil into during tire changes to keep it from becoming "frozen" like that? Or would that have no beneficial effect in this application?
Rick.

The central "bearing carrier" isn't meant to move in the wheel, the cush drive plate that slides onto it is though.




The cush drive plate can be fairly easily removed and the interface between the two parts greased.

[Groover]

Is it the rubber wedges grabbing it and holding it? I remember removing mine somehow, and it was pretty difficult. I wanted to see inside, which I did, but not sure it was worth the effort 

[bigbikerrick]

The central "bearing carrier" isn't meant to move in the wheel, the cush drive plate that slides onto it is though.




The cush drive plate can be fairly easily removed and the interface between the two parts greased.

I get it, Charlie. Its not the cush drive , sliding surfaces we are referring to. After your explanation and looking at the parts diagram I can tell where the issue is.
Thanks
Rick.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Is it the rubber wedges grabbing it and holding it? I remember removing mine somehow, and it was pretty difficult. I wanted to see inside, which I did, but not sure it was worth the effort 

The piece that amamet was asking about is #14 in this illustration:



which looks like this:

[Rolf Halvorsen]

Ok - this is simple. Just remove No: 28 (locking ring) and press out No: 14 after you have applied heat from an air gun for a while. You need a big hydraulic press to perform this job. This way you will get the steel disc 25 out. Then you can press in again part 14.

Been there myself and done that.

Rolf

[Motorad64]

Per Charlie’s advice I just cleaned mine up, removed all corrosion, but my sleeve was in pretty good shape.  Used heat and kroil on the Cush/sleeve then tapped the brake disk bolts til i worked it off. 

I liked how Canuck zinc-plated the Cush plate—May keep it from rusting right.  I’m just going to regrease annually.

[Motorad64]

Whoops. Meant to show the sleeve before n after...