Best time to change engine oil?

[willowstreetguzziguy]

Living in south central Pennsylvania, our coldest time of the year is generally a 90 day period from Dec. 15 to March 15. We periodically have days where the temps do get into the 50 -60 degree range. Because of this, I choose to not pack my bike away but to keep it ready to ride on these days.

Question... Given the fact that I try to get out on the Guzzi at least once every 30 days during that timeframe, would it be best to change my engine oil prior to the cold months or when riding becomes more frequent around March 15?

[RinkRat II]

 

       It's really a flip of the coin and depends on how many miles up to the point of winter. The really important part is to ride the bike in cold weather long enough to burn off any internal condensation. In your case I'd say 45 min. to an hour at least. HTH.

         Paul B

[willowstreetguzziguy]

I’m at about 4K on the current oil. And Yes, when those warm days in Jan. and Feb. come, I’m out fir at least 45 minutes of riding. So change it now and have new oil in it through those cold months or wait until March?

[John Warner]

Is this on your 2008 Sport WSGG?

The CARC Engines are (mostly) over-cooled, unless it's one of the earlier ones that has a Thermostat in the Sump.
Would be worth fitting a Temp Gauge to see what temps the Oil runs at.

My Stelvio (Oil) would never get higher than approx 70-75°C in the sort of temps you quoted, and as Paul says, you won't get rid of the condensation/moisture in the Oil unless it gets to a decent temp regularly.

If your Sport has an Oil Cooler, but no Thermostat, I'd half-cover the Cooler when riding in 50-60°F weather.

[RinkRat II]

     At 4K if your close to normal change, go for it. Won't hurt. What oil do you use and what's your normal interval?

       Paul B

[willowstreetguzziguy]

Yes it’s the carc 1200 Sport with oil cooler. I run Liqui Moly 10/60 and Generally change it between 4-5k miles. Currently at 4,300 miles so next time I get out and ride for 45 minutes, I’ll change the oil. Thanks

[Perazzimx14]

Change it at whatever you normal change interval is (I used 5,000 miles out of convenience). Doesn't matter if it -15 or 110 degrees. Ride the bike for a few miles then come in and once the mufflers cool down enough so you don't burn yourself do your oil change.

[Ncdan]

I use full synthetic so my oil changes are once a year or 5k and the yearly always wins out. Therefore it’s never an issue for me.Having two  bikes helps with this issue.

[geoff in almonte]

One of my favorite Roperisms.....

"Oil is good.  Put some in."

G

[Cam3512]

Personally I would wait until Spring and then change it.

[kballowe]

Change it when it warms up enough for you to change it. 

 

[Kev m]

The only sure answer is to sample and send it to a lab and check.

As someone who spent ~30 years in PA (Lehigh, Delaware, and Chester Counties) and who routinely rode in winter, and who used synthetic fluids with extended intervals, I'll say wait till spring.

At least assuming you garage it.

I have literally never changed the oil just cause winter was approaching. I've not only never had an oil related failure, as I've worked as a tech I've never even seen one.

Now that I think about it, how many complaints so you read about breakdowns on forums all over the net? And when was the last time you heard about one the was caused by acid etching from oil changes that weren't frequent enough.

Crap the worst I ever saw was this accountant who opened a beer brewing supply store and leased an Acura. Shortly before the lease was up he asked me to check his oil. I was surprised that nothing was on the dipstick. Seemed that after 3 years and no oil changes or adding any it was not showing. There was definitely sludge in the motor, and we didn't disassemble to the point of bearing caps. But once we cleaned out as best we could there was no obvious damage.

I don't think we should plan to fail like that, but I do think we often err on the side of paranoia.

[ratguzzi]

day time. Easier to see....

[PhilB]

If you change it about once a year, I'd say do it before the winter storage.  That just helps keep the acids from sitting in it all winter.  My longterm bike was a Ducati Monster, and I generally rode it between 10K and 14K per year, so I changed the oil twice a year.  It called for 20w/50 normally, so I would change to that in the spring, once the weather had warmed a bit, run that through normal riding season, then change to 10w/40 once the temps got below 40 most of the time.  I'd use it with the 10w/40 for a month or two, say October and as much of November until the snow starts sticking to the ground, store for the winter, get it out in March or April when the snow has melted, change back to 20w/50 in May or so.  I put 265K on that bike, over 24 years, that way, so I'd say that worked well enough.

PhilB

[Sasquatch Jim]

Another sneaky oil thread.

[Lannis]

Change it at whatever you normal change interval is (I used 5,000 miles out of convenience). Doesn't matter if it -15 or 110 degrees. Ride the bike for a few miles then come in and once the mufflers cool down enough so you don't burn yourself do your oil change.

I've often wondered about the "change when warm" oil-change thing, whether it's maybe like the "don't swim for 30 minutes after you've eaten".

I drain my old oil into a drip pan.   I then empty the drip pan into my recycle tank, turning it upside down over it.   On a hot day with hot oil, the drip pan will be as oil-free as it's going to get in an hour.   On a cold day with cold oil, it takes most of the day, but it still all comes out.

If the bike isn't going anywhere and you're not in a hurry, is it really that important for it to be warm?   If you pull the plug, put a big "NO OIL" ribbon on the key, and let it go a day or two, I think it'll drain just as thoroughly as if it's warm.   Of course, if you're trying to do the whole thing in 30 minutes, it would make a difference, but that's not always the case.

Lannis

[Perazzimx14]

I've often wondered about the "change when warm" oil-change thing, whether it's maybe like the "don't swim for 30 minutes after you've eaten".

I drain my old oil into a drip pan.   I then empty the drip pan into my recycle tank, turning it upside down over it.   On a hot day with hot oil, the drip pan will be as oil-free as it's going to get in an hour.   On a cold day with cold oil, it takes most of the day, but it still all comes out.

If the bike isn't going anywhere and you're not in a hurry, is it really that important for it to be warm?   If you pull the plug, put a big "NO OIL" ribbon on the key, and let it go a day or two, I think it'll drain just as thoroughly as if it's warm.   Of course, if you're trying to do the whole thing in 30 minutes, it would make a difference, but that's not always the case.

Lannis

Warm oil drains faster. Thats the only reason I warm the oil 1st.

[Kev m]

Point of order on the "acids staying in all winter".

There either are acids (and the oil additive package is used up and damage is occurring) or there aren't acids and there's nothing to save the engine from.

Changing oil by time or mileage is a guessing game of staying ahead of the end of the additive package.

In the hot vs cold thing I don't think it's a big deal either way. It obviously flows better warm and supposedly carries away more contaminants, perhaps because of that.

I think we overthink both of these.

[Bulldog9]

I try to change at the end of the season if the bike is going to over winter so fresh oil sits, and the acid and varnish and particulates dont harden.

Been doing this for over 30 years, and you can pull the valve covers and drop the pan, and will find zero sludge or build up.

But if I am riding, even infrequently year round, I will change at the suggested interval, with filters every other change.

[DaveJT]

The only sure answer is to sample and send it to a lab and check.

As someone who spent ~30 years in PA (Lehigh, Delaware, and Chester Counties) and who routinely rode in winter, and who used synthetic fluids with extended intervals, I'll say wait till spring.

At least assuming you garage it.

I have literally never changed the oil just cause winter eat approaching. I've not only never had an oil related failure, as I've worked as a tech I've never even seen one.

Now that I think about it, how many complaints so you read about breakdowns on forums all over the net? And when was the last time you heard about one the was caused by acid etching from oil changes that weren't frequent enough.

Crap the worst I ever saw was this accountant who opened a beer brewing supply store and rented a Acura  Shortly before the lease was up he asked me to check his oil. I was surprised that nothing was on the dipstick. Seemed that after 3 years and no oil changes or adding any it was not showing. There was definitely sludge in the motor, and we didn't disassemble to the point of bearing caps. But once we cleaned out as best we could there was no obvious damage.

I don't think we should plan to fail like that, but I do think we often erw on the side of paranoia.

I agree with Kev 100%. That said. Just wait till spring. It’ll be all right.

[Andy1]

What’s the best time to change the oil?   
About 7.30pm.
Then it can drain over night while I drink a beer

AndyB

[twowheeladdict]

I don't know about your particular bike, but the manuals for my air cooled bikes say to change the oil more frequently when riding in cold weather.

Personally, I would change the oil before a time of infrequent riding than after.

If I kept the bikes in a humidity and temperature controlled environment my thought might change. 

[Perazzimx14]

Point of order on the "acids staying in all winter".

There either are acids (and the oil additive package is used up and damage is occurring) or there aren't acids and there's nothing to save the engine from.

Changing oil by time or mileage is a guessing game of staying ahead of the end of the additive package.

In the hot vs cold thing I don't think it's a big deal either way. It obviously flows better warm and supposedly carries away more contaminants, perhaps because of that.

I think we overthink both of these.

We do over thing this. While oil analysis is the only really way of knowing for sure what the state of the additives package is it is cost prohibitive in a lot of instances. Why do a $30 oil analysis an oil change can be done for around the same money. The nice thing is with modern oils they are good for a long time and 4,000 or 6,000 mile change interval is conservatives under normal use.

[Lannis]

What’s the best time to change the oil?   
About 7.30pm.
Then it can drain over night while I drink a beer

AndyB

Then after you've had a beer or two and slept it off in the morning, you can go out, forget you were in the middle of an oil change, start the bike up to move it outside, and ....

Lannis

[Brand X]

Yesterday, but mostly to get the 7100 Motul out of the system. (Wrong color)  Change the oil when warm, and don't start the bike until spring,unless you are riding it enough time to warm the oil up..

[bad Chad]

When it’s dirty?

[DaveJT]

Yesterday, but mostly to get the 7100 Motul out of the system. (Wrong color)  Change the oil when warm, and don't start the bike until spring,unless you are riding it enough time to warm the oil up..

Yup. I can’t worry about acids AND zddp. Mayonnaise is your enemy in the cold. So if you start it during the winter, ride it till it comes up to temp. 

[sdcr]

Whenever I am draining the oil, I put a small note attached by the key, saying “no oil”. Even a dummy like me can read that before I start the machine. The note hasn’t fail me yet.

Then after you've had a beer or two and slept it off in the morning, you can go out, forget you were in the middle of an oil change, start the bike up to move it outside, and ....

Lannis

[Tom H]

Whenever I am draining the oil, I put a small note attached by the key, saying “no oil”. Even a dummy like me can read that before I start the machine. The note hasn’t fail me yet.

Your not the only one that does that. Works for me as well!

Tom

[SIR REAL ED]

Daytime for sure.  It's easier to find the filler cap when you drop it.