Few questions about a cali 1100i?

[lad]

The TPS screws on my '04 are Torx T-20. I looked at your picture, yes the paint is there, but not in the hole.  You need to give the screws a good wire brushing to be sure if Torx or not.

They were a bit clogged with paint but I'm slowly getting a T-20 to catch them i'll try get it to .4 then, thanks.

[Tom H]

No not necessary.......Onc e properly set, it stays set.

When I do get to go to a Guzzi get together, I bring my Win tablet and my cables in case a FI bike needs some attention. This cable just makes it easier to hook up my meter.

Tom

[lad]

No not necessary.......Onc e properly set, it stays set.

When I do get to go to a Guzzi get together, I bring my Win tablet and my cables in case a FI bike needs some attention. This cable just makes it easier to hook up my meter.

Tom

I getcha....sounds like a heavenly scenario

[lad]

How do you change out the ignition leads? ? there's a serious lack of wiggle-room on this bike...

Is it easier to drop down the coils?

Can't imagine getting the new ones on will be fun either?

If I could just take the centre frame off it'd be grand

[lad]

Just to throw another spanner in among the multimeters...

Going through the manual GuzziSteve sent me way back when, (https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1100/California1100_Atelier_Compil.pdf)

It lists the reading at .150, on a PF09...

Relevant? Who knows...

[Tom H]

The .150 is when the idle stop screw is fully unscrewed. I would not do this for the time being. Just try to get .400 without messing with the TB idle screw. Again, we want to see if adjusting the TPS solves your flat spots.

If your spark plug wires are bad. Removing the fuel tank would probably be the easiest option. Check your spark plug caps (they should unscrew from the wire) and as mentioned before,  if you have enough wire to trim off about 8-12mm from the end, give that try and test the wire again.

Tom

[ejs]

 

[Tom]

Throwing this in.  The California 1100i's last year was in 1997.  1998 the model was changed to the California EV.  While most components are the same throughout the California, never assume that your bike is identical to other Californias even in the same year of production.  Moto Guzzi has a habit of using different components even in the same year of production to get the bikes out to the dealers.  They could care less about continuity of the production line.  Reference by part number and for the same year of manufacture.  Just a bit of advice when you end up with a head scratching moment. 

Degrease the outside of your TPS.   

[Tom H]

A quick warning about removing the tank.

I believe you should have 2 sets of wires under the tank. One S/B for the fuel level and the other for the petcock. DO NOT MIX THESE UP. Label them to get them back together correctly.

Tom

[Tom]

Y'ep. 

[lad]

A quick warning about removing the tank.

I believe you should have 2 sets of wires under the tank. One S/B for the fuel level and the other for the petcock. DO NOT MIX THESE UP. Label them to get them back together correctly.

Tom

thanks Tom, only 1 set there, on the left, little clip thing beside petcock

[Tom H]

Sounds like you have a manual petcock rather than an electric. There still S/B another set of wires under the tank tucked somewhere.

Tom

[lad]

 

interesting, a simple rheostat? Easy see how a bit of crud can mess it up. I remember there was one in the fuel tank of a nighthawk I had and it gave me a lot of trouble

[lad]

Sounds like you have a manual petcock rather than an electric. There still S/B another set of wires under the tank tucked somewhere.

Tom

Yeah two little levers, electric sounds handy, just opens when you turn the key?

[lad]

The .150 is when the idle stop screw is fully unscrewed. I would not do this for the time being. Just try to get .400 without messing with the TB idle screw. Again, we want to see if adjusting the TPS solves your flat spots.

If your spark plug wires are bad. Removing the fuel tank would probably be the easiest option. Check your spark plug caps (they should unscrew from the wire) and as mentioned before,  if you have enough wire to trim off about 8-12mm from the end, give that try and test the wire again.

Tom

I see. It doesn't say much in that manual so maybe they just left out the pertinent stuff for the laugh.

Tank is off, but the coils are up under the frame and behind the cylinder head, hard to get a twist on them. I read their resistance from wire to a chassis bolt at 3k each, but I want to switch to copper core anyway, to get it all from 13k to 10k (which is apparently better.....?)

[Tom H]

If you are reading the wire only, not including the spark plug cap, 3k ohm would be right and your plug wires are acceptable provided they don't put on  light show at night.

If you want to do up the plug wires, also get NGK plug caps. LB05? 5 is the resistance and then the last digit depends on if you want the style that goes over the screw on bit on the spark plug or just slides on the plug stud without the screw on bit.

Your getting there!
Tom

[John A]

I got a reading alright, it was connected, just disconnect for the picture.

Is reading the TPS that common that you'd need this tool?

No you don’t need it, just nice to have. Less fooling around. TPS is set and forget unless it wears and changes or it goes kaput, both of which can happen but it’s not common and it won’t stop you on the side of the road.

[lad]

Ok, sorry to be flogging the horse here now but...before I go at it I'm just reading back over to make sure I'm doing it right, I have some conflicting info from Kiwi_Roy and Tom H, I think, maybe one can clear it up?

You don't adjust the TPS to get 400 you adjust the idle stop to get 400 which just happens to be about right for idle, I remember that step confused me when I was learning.

then...

Just try to get .400 without messing with the TB idle screw. Again, we want to see if adjusting the TPS solves your flat spots.

Which do you think is best to do? TB or TPS?

thanks guys

[lad]

just to clear up an earlier question for current/future readers.

The ignition coils were easy get to , just two hex screws holding each one inside a metal rail, the whole thing just drops down. The wires don't screw out either, they have a crimped connection that pops in. I'll have to look at finding these somewhere, surely common enough.

The wires had 0 resistance, the 3k i was getting was from coil to chassis.

One job down

[Tom H]

On the plug wires. You should be able to buy just the metal crimped on end at an auto parts store. There is a nice tool for crimping it, but a classic slip joint pliers will do the job.

We have all given you correct info on the TPS setting. There are different ways to get the same result.

Kiwi.....His info is when you want to start from scratch and follow from step #1 any of the instructions listed for a complete job of TPS and TB balancing. Very good idea!!! This makes sure everything is correctly set. But, it takes time.

My way.... I think your TPS is bad?? I could be completely wrong?? Your voltage for idle is way low. So at the very least, it is not adjusted properly. Provided that the TB adjustment screws, including idle screw, have not been messed with and the bike is idling acceptably, I would just rotate the TPS (we are talking 1-2mm at a time watching your meter, doesn't take much) and adjust it to get .400V. Then take it for a ride.

Ride it on the same streets that you were having issues with flat spots and see if there is any change. See if it feels peppier, or feels lack of power with the new TPS setting. Heck, it could even start billowing out black smoke from being too rich with the new TPS setting???? Hope not!!!

With my quick way, you still may need to do the complete TPS and TB adjustment. Again, with the numbers you provided, adjusting the TPS could solve the problem????? OR.....do nothing at all.

And again, with the numbers you provided, I don't understand why at full throttle, the numbers start falling. IT "Should" just hold the high number.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[lad]

And again, with the numbers you provided, I don't understand why at full throttle, the numbers start falling. IT "Should" just hold the high number.

woah woah woah, hold it up there, they don't start falling, that's me rolling off the throttle after it peaks at 4.78! Sorry, should've mention that.

Still though it's the low end we're worried about.

I can feel those bloody torx screws starting to strip...precarious position now 

[Tom H]

OK got it, thought that was holding at W/O. My bad.

On the screws. If they won't budge, I think you can grab them with vice grip pliers. You "should" be able to get replacement Torx screws at a auto or hardware store. I think Torx may be it's own thread, so a Torx is a Torx. Never really looking into Torx to know for sure.

Tom

[lad]

Well I got it off, smells a lot like petrol and looks wet inside, normal? Sounds like that's a deeper problem if not.

did i read somewhere about swapping out those TPS torx for a stainless steel alternative? Hard to get the right angle on the one above the starter motor, so medium stripping-risk...I found

[Tom H]

Don't know what you were using, something like these are a great help. Prices vary so search around:





https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11212-10-Piece-Driver/dp/B00SQ4FN1I/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2MOYVHU6CP7H1&dchild=1&keywords=bit+wrench+ratchet&qid=1611598319&sprefix=bit+wr%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-18

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=sr_1_19?crid=2MOYVHU6CP7H1&dchild=1&keywords=bit+wrench+ratchet&qid=1611598319&sprefix=bit+wr%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-19

Tom

[pehayes]

Well I got it off, smells a lot like petrol and looks wet inside, normal? Sounds like that's a deeper problem if not.

No, its not normal.  It is excess liquid fuel draining down the throttle body shaft and dripping into the TPS.  (Why didn't they just put the TPS on top?)  The dirty/faulty sweeper connections inside may be contributing to the excess fuel.  Poor state of tune could be contributing to the excess fuel.  Many slow, short trips without fully heating the engine could be contributing to the excess fuel.

I would start by drilling and cleaning with tuner spray and compressed air.  (I posted a location to drill up above.  Drill gently and stop as soon as you pass through the plastic body.)  Reset to proper spec and see how it runs.  Worst case you buy another one.

I don't think Torx screws use anything other than standard threading so you should be able to substitute if you strip a head.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[lad]

No, its not normal.  It is excess liquid fuel draining down the throttle body shaft and dripping into the TPS.  (Why didn't they just put the TPS on top?)  The dirty/faulty sweeper connections inside may be contributing to the excess fuel.  Poor state of tune could be contributing to the excess fuel.  Many slow, short trips without fully heating the engine could be contributing to the excess fuel.

I would start by drilling and cleaning with tuner spray and compressed air.  (I posted a location to drill up above.  Drill gently and stop as soon as you pass through the plastic body.)  Reset to proper spec and see how it runs.  Worst case you buy another one.

I don't think Torx screws use anything other than standard threading so you should be able to substitute if you strip a head.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Ok, thanks Patrick. I suppose clean it all up and see if it happens again...will try it on the weekend, or whenever replacements come it. It's really dirt, i wiped down inside and it's black/brown residue.

Anyone know how to read the emissions? All the instructions have that in it, is it through the Guzzidiag?

[lad]

Don't know what you were using, something like these are a great help. Prices vary so search around:





Tom

Using a lidl ratchet set.

They look great! Never heard of them, thanks

[Tom H]

If you have the little torx bits, a small vice grips help to get in to tight spots.

I do not know if they emissions test motorcycles where you live. If not, then you just get the bike running right and be done with it. A sensor setup can be bought, I won't spend that much.

Tom

[lad]

I do not know if they emissions test motorcycles where you live.

...they don't even do non-emissions tests

[lad]

Small update to this:

I soaked the TPS in isopropyl for a few days, I figured if excess fuel could trickle down and gunk it up then there's no need to drill it.

When I put it back on I managed to get it set to .400mv, and when back probed it still went up to a 4.8 peak.

Maybe that'll help, maybe not. I'm waiting on the new plug caps to arrive, so I'll give it a spin next week and see.

Cheers