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As a general rule, Guzzis have good cornering clearance. Very different from most Harleys. A 45 degree lean angle corresponds to 1.0g of cornering force, which is pretty dang good for a street machine with regular tires on a non-track surface. Empirical testing from the 1920s establishes that most people feel psychologically “safe” when experiencing a g force of 0.2 while cornering in a car. So most roads and speed limits are designed loosely around that standard (lots of exceptions for mountain roads).I’ve read that humans are instinctively fearful of a “lean angle” greater than 22 degrees. That the sort of slope where human feet often slip, or the upright body falls down, so we are programmed to be leery past 22 degrees. That’s likely why maybe riders crash in curves that their bike and tires could have negotiated—their brains told them not to be leaning more than 22 degrees. They make a gizmo you can mount on the handlebars to determine g forces and lean angles. I had one once on my V7, which I usually ride pretty conservatively. It spent most of its life reporting lean angles of 20 to 25 degrees. To get into the 30s you needed curvy mountain roads ridden considerably above the advisory speed limits. In the 30s you feel like you are definitely leaning and working the bike. It felt like “spirited riding,” but essentially safe and controlled. At least for me, getting into the low 40s felt like pushing too far on a public road. I think I was approaching a limit, but I didn’t crash or slide, so maybe there was more margin. You would have to be a pretty aggressive rider to routinely ride in the 40shttp://ridewithtech.com/tech-gadgets/the-leanometer/
It will be different in motion as opposed to static.When moving in a circular path, the force acting down through the machine compresses the suspension. Also there is the variation in the load, both of these combine to “squash” the bike towards the contact patch.In a 45 degree banked turn, the bike and rider combination weigh 1.4 times normal.The lean “angle” is not altered by the mass, but the compressing of the suspension effectively reduces the ground clearance, so the first part of the substructure will touch down earlier.
European or African?......are you suggesting that coconuts migrate?
Well maybe , there is the problem of finding someone fleet of foot who owns a large protractor . Dusty
ummmmm...i kinda expect more ground clearance in a corner if I’m “throttle on” in a curveTo me, what you’ve described is going from straight up, then into a curve w no additional throttle, and a loss of speed, while cornering forces pushes you down onto the forks and shocks.Adding throttle in a corner adds some clearance, given the same lean angle. Adding brake in a corner takes away clearance, given the same lean angle Leaning more is similar to picking a smaller rear cog on your ten speed. (Visualize the gear cluster from the rear..cogs get smaller on the outside..motorcycle tires get smaller on the outside). One of two things happen ...you slow down or you have to pedal harderBack to motorcycles..Leaning more w a steady throttle only, slows you down and compresses the suspension, putting the bike into a decreasing radius turnLeaning more w a slight increase in throttle keeps a steady speed/pace, reduces the compression on the suspension, putting the bike into a perfect radius turn, a circle if you willLeaning w a harder increase in throttle than slightly, increases speed, standing up off the suspension less so, putting the bike into an increasing radius turn...Oh it’s all too complicated I quit ..i so like thinking this shiite while riding
With your carpentry skills, no problem.....
Yes you are correct to a point. Getting on the throttle will increase ground clearance on just about every properly set up/designed motorcycle due to chain pull. As you open the throttle the chain pull extends the rear suspension
Just a question on that one Phil..If the chain runs above the swingarm pivot (which it does), wouldn’t the tension tend to compress the shocks?If you removed the rear shocks and started the bike on the centrestand then put it into gear and released the clutch, do you think it would move the wheel up into the guard or down towards the ground ? When is the last time you saw a drag bike lift it’s arse when the rider dumps the clutch and heads off down the strip....
If the swingarm had no droop it would. As a general principle when the axle is below the swingarm pivot point the chain pull will extend the suspension under power. The amount is dependent on the relationship between the countershaft and rear sprocket sizes the swingarm droop and the swingarm pivot centreline to the countershaft sprocket centreline. The combined relationship determines either squat or the opposite. It's what complicates final drive gearing changes for race teams and they just dont thrown on a smaller or bigger rear sprocket to fine tune the gearing or it upsets the handling on the throttle. It's also partly why modern GP bikes have adjustable swingarm pivot points, to tune the anti squat for different final drive combinations. Drag strip squat? depends if its a bike set up for the strip or a modern sports bike or track bike that's set up well. A modern sports bike wont squat on the launch unless its been modified to do so. Thats why they want to wheelie off the line all the time and are difficult to get a good 60 foot time. A dedicated drag bike wont have any or little swing arm droop so the chain pull doesn't oppose the squat. Look at race starts for a modern WSB without mechanical launch control. They don't squat at all because the chain pull is overriding it so they tend to wheelie a lot so the rider and/or the electronic launch and anti wheelie control need to pull torque out or the rider uses rear brake. It's part of what a modern mechanical launch control does, lowers the rear suspension to lower the c of g and also help reduce the chain pull anti squat. Ciao
That’s well worth considering.I do understand and accept that it’s the direct line from the countershaft sprocket to the rear sprocket that determines whether the suspension extends or squats.It’s a two minute job to take the shocks off the CT110. I’m interested to see what happens to the rear swingarm if I do that and pop it into gear then touch the throttle, like any half decently designed bike, the front sprocket, swingarm pivot and rear axle are very close to in line under load, there’ll be very few that aren’t.Our earlier poster, suggested that it was a foregone conclusion that he would gain ground clearance under application of throttle due to torque reaction and on earlier shafties that’s more than likely.My old XS750 Yamaha triple was a bastard for it.However that will only be the case if at all, under acceleration, once the new speed is reached the suspension will have settled again.I’ll leave that there for now..
I was just watching that on netflix this morning BRING OUT YOUR DEAD.........clang!!!!
Thanks for all the technical!...great stuff Huzo, rereading your post, I noticed how you put the bike on a BANKED curve..i was describing a flat horizontal landscape. I agree w you on the banking compressing the suspension there..Ciao indeed! Here is the visual i have of adding throttle in a curve...front forks extended, up on the rear.