Removing cylinder head studs

[ray bear]

Hi all, just gearing up to convert my non filter eldorado to an oil filter  and will have to remove cylinder head studs to get enough clearance on my mill to drill the crankcase as I only have 400mm height and would prefer to not use a drill press if I can help it as the head stem bearing show a little bit of movement intrinsic to chinese manufacture, Ive seen a couple of posts where people have not wanted to removed them and I think lesp was one . have people broken the housing as theres not much metal where they thread in or are they just corroded in there for life, I dont wish to get heavy handed in this area as its the only crankcase I have (gear drive} anyone enlighten me on this matter  thanks Ray

[huub]

i have a tool similar to this
https://www.forcetools-kepmar.eu/FC-818A-Stud-Extractor
you slide it on the stud , and simply turn the stud out
 recommended...

with this tool i had no issue removing and refitting the head studs.

[LesP]

Plenty of pictures here.(fwiw)

https://imageevent.com/time_warp1959/motorcycle/mgmods

I left the studs in when I did that modification but had to clock it up twice being turned 180 degrees on the table. ( I would only remove the studs if you have to)
Double hard wood decking screwed together then fixed to the the block.
The engine case base was then fixed to the table and the wood face milled.
That turned out very accurate when the then inverted case was clocked on the sump face.

It took so long this pic is in NSW.



When I bored the case for the 88mm cylinders I removed the studs.
I had to heat the area around the studs, if you are lucky you can put a alloy horse shoe strip (maybe 2mm thick) around the stud top thread with a nut run down onto it.
Vice grips with the convex jaws (not the flat ones) can then be locked onto the strip and the studs might come out.
The stud removal tool will most likely damage the stud when it locked in.

This pic is in QLD.
It reminds me that I made the quill power feed to do the boring.



With the long series drill I used a collet over the chuck to gain the needed height.



I drilled one of the other holes 9.5mm with a shortened drill. (I think the 10mm is a wrong cross over for 3/8" on TOT)
You will see that when you measure the drillings.

I put studs in like this when I can (non destructive) and with a nut at the top on removal as needed.



Optional but I elected to block the old feed above the oil pump, Loctited and pinned at the front with a 3mm stainless steel grub screw.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Most times they can be removed by "double nutting", but when that fails I have an old Craftsman stud remover of this type.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/59715946

[ray bear]

thanks guys for the great input ,I have stud removers but was more concerned about the cast housing breaking away and it seems by your replies that shouldn't be a big issue.. Its good to get feedback from people that have been there and done it.

[lucky phil]

I have done this a few times on BB cases and Ducati cases. I have always used the double nut technique but the most effective thing is heat and go slowly. Heat the area around the stud well with a propane torch. That is the game changer. CC stud threads always seem to be a tight tolerance class for the engagement length so they are a firm fit all the way.

Ciao 

[Matt Story]

I made a piece of plywood with holes that match the front cover holes.  Bolted that to the front of the motor, then bolted the board to the drill press table.  Turned the table 90.  Placed a piece of window glass (to indicate) on the oil pan surface and trammed the drill press table to the spindle with a dial indicator.  A brand new extended drill bit was used.  Every thing came out nice.

[ray bear]

Thanks Matt that was my next issue as did the drilling run in exact parallel to the front engine face . you have answered my question but will do a check to be sure. With this sort of exercise I like to procrastinate and give my nervous system hell

[jacksonracingcomau]

i have a tool similar to this
https://www.forcetools-kepmar.eu/FC-818A-Stud-Extractor
you slide it on the stud , and simply turn the stud out
 recommended...

with this tool i had no issue removing and refitting the head studs.

:
Worked for me for nearly 40 years, 100’s of studs
Only possible damage to bb case is rh side top right stud
That tool may have kissed case and left a mark
Guilty m’lord, cockpit error, others, take care

[Kiwi_Roy]

I would like to see how/where the filter mounts on the engine when I first assembled my Eldorado I mounted a filter in the rear of the sump next to the relief valve. I eventually decided my piping arrangement was too complicated and went back to having no filter.
Can you post a link to how yours will be done, Inside / outside?
Thanks
Roy

[mtiberio]

I have never given it a second thought. Double nut it, or use a cam lock tool. Lube threads on assembly.