New Moto Guzzi Door Mats Available Now
The Norge and Breva don't have a choke?
I could dig in and correct every connection in the wire circuit in an effort to improve voltage sensing, but what if the false voltage reading is originating inside the ECU? I chose the easier route of adding the momentary starter bypass and live with the bikes foibles.Patrick HayesFremont CA
We added a relay, tapped the yellow wire from the ignition relay and the orange fused line from the battery (the one from the startus interuptus fix) at the ignition relay without disturbing the original relay so theoretically the handlebar button can still work if the ECU sees enough voltage.
I'll call this SI v2.0. I did the SI v1.0 by tapping in to the yellow wire in the small starter relay with a direct fused connection to batt+. After that I got the solenoid Clunk. The orange wire on the starter relay (next to the yellow wire) is connected to the solenoid. It is only powered for a few seconds when the Clunk happens. Where did you say you picked up the keyed hot wire to power your new momentary switch? I think it makes sense to have a keyed + if I can find one easily. Otherwise I'll just come from the battery at the yellow wire from SI v1.0.
Don’t mount your switch where I did at first. I kept bumping it when pedaling the bike around in the garage.
That is essentially what the Startus Interruptus modification does. You can buy a kit from MPH in Texas or you can build your own as you have done.However, for some of us, not even that will solve the CLUNK issue. Some models (Breva 11) have an auto crank feature (puhleez). Touch the handlebar button and the motor cranks for several seconds on its own. You don't need to hold the button to continue the cranking. Problem is that somewhere in the wiring or connector blocks or the ECU software something intercedes to abruptly cut off the several second cranking feature. After a few milliseconds you no longer have a 12v cranking signal in the solenoid spade wire. Zero volts. So, it doesn't matter that you have installed an SI relay. Even that relay drops when the trigger wire signal is cut. In these rare circumstances, you have to come up with some bypass alternative directly from battery to solenoid without utilizing the original crank trigger wire at all. The easiest roadside emergency alternative is to carry 3' of jumper wire, remove your seat, and short the battery directly to the solenoid spade to begin cranking. Quite a nuisance. If the problem persists, build in a momentary switch as I have done above and you have an instant, functional alternative to the failed Guzzi cranking.Patrick HayesFremont CA
As an owner of an 07 Norge manufactured in 2006 with now 49,000+ Miles on it - i am acutely interested in following this thread. PE Hayes you have distilled it down to what should be a sticky feature for all CARC owners of same and near vintage. Good on-ya.
Why is the term “momentary switch” used ?
Technical terminology. That's what you need for a starter circuit. Mostly there are two kinds of electrical switches. A typical push button ON/OFF button will click on and stay on. You don't need to hold it. If you want it OFF you have to push it again to click off. The same thing as a lever toggle switch but in button format.A momentary switch is spring-loaded. You push ON but you have to hold it. As soon as you release pressure it goes back to OFF. Hence, it is called 'momentary' because it only connects for the moment you wish. That is the kind of button you need in a starter circuit. (It is also possible to buy a momentary OFF switch which would stay ON until you push and hold it for a momentary OFF disconnect. Not a practical application here.). Your horn button is also a typical momentary switch.Patrick HayesFremont CA
If this is the case, is clearly not a key-immobilizer issue, likely 'starter interuptus' Lots of thread on that. BLUF: Stock wiring doesn't deliver enough current to starter to engage and turn the engine over.
