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Don't torque them from where they are, that wouldn't be accurate anyway.Work on one at a time breaking it just loose from it's current position (yeah like 1/8-1/4 turn) and then tighten it from there before moving onto the next fastener until they have all been loosened and retorqued.I'm not near my desk so I don't have access to the manuals for specs, but download one and look it up or maybe someone else will do that for you.
Head bolts should be backed off 1/8-1/4 turn before re-torque, and I go to 33ftlbs on the 4 big ones and 23ftlbs. When you back them off you may hear them pop a bit, that is normal. I have seen them leak at 30-32ftlbs.
My question's are:- Do I loosen all the fasteners first and then start the process or loosen one of them, and then tighten it to spec?- What order (or criss cross pattern) do I do?- Do I pre-tighten the 2 and 5 bolt first and then start on a criss cross pattern with 2 and 5 then getting the 31 lb/ft or, do I do the full criss cross pattern and pre-tighten the 2 and 5 bolt to 18.5lb/ft and then once the entire process is done, go back and re-torque those two at the 31lb/ft?ThanksJames
- Do I pre-tighten the 2 and 5 bolt first and then start on a criss cross pattern with 2 and 5 then getting the 31 lb/ft or, do I do the full criss cross pattern and pre-tighten the 2 and 5 bolt to 18.5lb/ft and then once the entire process is done, go back and re-torque those two at the 31lb/ft?
I answered all this earlier, but failed to say the notes that I posted were the advice of TWO Guzzi mechanics (GuzziSteve and Roper).So AGAIN - Work on each one individually - crack it off 1/8 - 1/4, then tighten it to its value, then move to the next one.In this way pattern and order don't matter because you've never fully released tension from the head.But if it makes you happy I'd go in a crossing pattern, and do the 4 large fasteners first and the lower torque value smaller one last.I don't know what manual you're looking at but the Engine V770IE manual published by Piaggio in 2012 as an update for the MKI motors (2012+ in EU/world markets, 2013+ in the US) only gives me the two values (other than the pre-tightening):The FOUR large nuts are final value of 30.98 ft. lbs. (GuzziSteve goes to 33 as I mentioned earlier)The ONE small nut value is 20.65 ft. lbs. (again GuzziSteve goes to 23).that's all there is. Don't overthink it just for a retorque.Let me know if you need me to email you a copy of this service manual or if you have further questions.
I don’t know why I was thinking this...
Thanks Kev,I wonder if they updated the manual as this is pulled from the 2013 Engine Service Manual where is shows 3 different torque specs for the 3 different types of fasteners (not including the 4th pre-tightening rating)Numbers 4,5 and 6 on the diagram are the ones being referred to with the single small nut (#6) being at the 20.65 ft.lbs, the two large nuts (#4) being at 30.98 ft.lbs and then the two other large nuts (#5) having a much lower rating at 18.44 ft.lbs. Any thoughts on the #5 nuts being such a low torque value compared to previous manuals that show the 30.98 rating?
OH SHIT - it's been too long. I just rechecked a bunch of the parts and service manuals and finally saw a photo that set me straight.I should have looked closer. YOU'RE RIGHT - and I don't know why my notes were off too but forget what I said earlier about the torque values cause I'M WRONG!. YES THREE different types of fasteners.The one top center is a smaller nut - tighten it to 20.65 ft. lbs.The two on the bottom "Column Nuts" are like cap screws though I think the parts diagrams are still partially outdated from the Breva 750* - YES YOU ARE RIGHT - tighten them to 18.44 ft. lbs.The two on top of the rocker assembly studs (M10 x 1.5) - tighten them to 30.98 ft. lbs.Otherwise same advice.I actually would be tempted to work from lowest to highest torque, but either way touch one fastener at a time - break loose, tighten to spec, move on to next fastener. But I'm almost certain it doesn't matter if you're only loosening/tightening one at a time.*Note: On the 2TB motors those two column nuts were exposed all the time outboard of the smaller valve cover so they had caps installed in them. But the 1TB motors use a larger head and larger valve cover where those column nuts are inside bores and covered by the valve cover so I'm pretty sure they don't use the caps anymore.
Thanks for confirming Kev. I'm starting to feel more comfortable with this procedure now that you have reviewed everything.I think this is the last question I have.....what are your thoughts on the 2 bolts (the big ones on the rocker assembly) that require a "pre tighten" to 18.5 ft.lbs and then a final tighten to 31 ft.lbs.You think I tighten those first to 18.5, then do the rest of the bolts and then finish off with them at 31 or am I making this too complicated and I should just torque them to 31 ft.lbs right off the bat and be done with it?
No need to go as low as the pre torque. That's when installing new gaskets and making sure everything is compressing evenly. With cracking and retightening one at a time you never fully release the clamp load and just ensure it's fully snugged by the end.
I did all of the big ones to 33#, I'm sure the 18# is a misprint except on the small dia. one. Look at a 2015 or 16 book. Same set up and the last year for it.
I called the local Guzzi dealer today and they haven't done a re-torque on a V7-I in a few years, but spoke with the mechanic who looked it up in his files and he suggested there are 3 different ratings which aligns with the manual I have.NOw I just need to figure out the right valve clearances and I'm good to go
One of the reasons they haven't done one was the need ended with the end of the Heron Head so it's been almost a decade.