Just picked up a poorly running California

[Tom H]

To set the TPS you only need a multimeter and some wire and some sewing needles or paperclips. Read the link I posted. To balance the TB's, just a single vacuum gauge will do, but two is easier. Again. read the link. Go from complete baseline, or the shortcut I mentioned.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[Parashootist]

To set the TPS you only need a multimeter and some wire and some sewing needles or paperclips. Read the link I posted. To balance the TB's, just a single vacuum gauge will do, but two is easier. Again. read the link. Go from complete baseline, or the shortcut I mentioned.

Hope this helps,
Tom

I'll do it tomorrow! Thanks. I have a multimeter and manometers.

[blackcat]

I'm missing the right saddlebag if anyone happens to have one. Otherwise the left one may go up for sale unless there is a reasonable aftermarket option.

Personally, I wouldn't sell that bag and hold out for another one because that bike looks better with the bags and if resell is in the future it will be easier to sell the bike with the bags or even one bag.

[Parashootist]

Personally, I wouldn't sell that bag and hold out for another one because that bike looks better with the bags and if resell is in the future it will be easier to sell the bike with the bags or even one bag.

I'll keep it in mind. I may have the option to buy a second bag so we'll see. Before I spend unnecessary money i want to get the running dialed in.

[guzzisteve]

Set the idle stop screws up to be 1100rpm, airscrews are at 1/2-3/4 both the same, then go up w/both idle stops to 1100rpm. There is a number in mv where it should be somewhat. You can even give it more a baseline up to 165mv, depending on how lean it is.
Then work on the upper range sync, I do 4-5K rpm others do 3K rpm. Have fun

[Parashootist]

Set the idle stop screws up to be 1100rpm, airscrews are at 1/2-3/4 both the same, then go up w/both idle stops to 1100rpm. There is a number in mv where it should be somewhat. You can even give it more a baseline up to 165mv, depending on how lean it is.
Then work on the upper range sync, I do 4-5K rpm others do 3K rpm. Have fun

I used the how to that Tom H linked a handful of posts back.
https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

I had to go through it twice as I missed the step turning the throttle stop screw back up to 500-525mv somehow.

I got it idling at roughly 1100 and the vacuum gauge was very close.

I think I'm going to call it a success. I also changed the air filter while I was in there. I attempted to check the fuel pump but when I saw how annoying it was going to be to get it out, I tightened it all back up and ignored it haha. I was able to see that the clamps were present and did not see any splits in the hose. Based on how it's running now, I think it's good to go.

I think once I get it buttoned back up it's ready for the maiden voyage.

I really appreciate everyone's help/encouragement. It seems like I might have scored a deal. Still a bit weirded out by how out the valves were but it sounds good after the adjustment.

[Vagrant]

Some people don't know the difference between TDC on the intake stroke and they get set on TDC on the exhaust. Or if the flywheel has letters on it they screw that up too. Also people get several feeler gauges stuck together. 

[Parashootist]

Some people don't know the difference between TDC on the intake stroke and they get set on TDC on the exhaust. Or if the flywheel has letters on it they screw that up too. Also people get several feeler gauges stuck together.

Seems wild to me. They were just so far off unless I somehow messed it up. However it's running a bit too well for me to have been on the wrong stroke so I think I'm good. I think I'll check it again and check the torque on the head bolts after I give it a test ride. I didn't check that while I had the valve covers off.

[Parashootist]

Just wanted to add some pictured I took while working on it. Nothing super exciting but a shot of my freshly cleaned airbox, the 150mv reading, 510mv reading, and a shot of the manometer. According to the manometer it should be pulling more vacuum than it does but I have no idea what's normal for one of these bikes. That reading is at idle.

[Tom H]

Your vacuum is about what I see at idle.

Tom

[Parashootist]

Your vacuum is about what I see at idle.

Tom

Awesome, thanks Tom. Really appreciate all the help.

[Vagrant]

FWIW, I have found those Harbor freight units to be horribly inaccurate.
Leave the head bolts alone. They do not need to be re-torqued.

[Parashootist]

FWIW, I have found those Harbor freight units to be horribly inaccurate.
Leave the head bolts alone. They do not need to be re-torqued.

Yea, one of these days I probably need to buy a Fluke or at least something better.

[kmartin]

Using the volt meter is the correct way to set TPS. The A/D chip is too low resolution to set it with GuzziDiag.  I’ve found GuzziDiag to be of minimal value on my Hydro

[Parashootist]

Using the volt meter is the correct way to set TPS. The A/D chip is too low resolution to set it with GuzziDiag.  I’ve found GuzziDiag to be of minimal value on my Hydro

Cool, maybe I'll hold off on ordering the cable since the bike appears to be running properly. Just need to take it for a test ride today to confirm. The seller did state it ran worse the longer it ran so maybe I'll come to find that it's not fixed. However I'm optimistic that it is.

[Parashootist]

I just went on the first test ride and came back with a to do list, some of them I was aware of, some were identified on the ride.

1) Fairly bad low speed surging/bucking. Also surged a bit at higher speeds but it cruised along between 55 and 65 pretty nicely.
2) Absolutely zero rear brake. Pedal goes right to the floor board
3) Weak front brakes, I assumed this since the fork seals appeared to have been leaking for a long time.
4) Fork seals as mentioned above.
5) Left auxiliary light is out.
6) Clutch lever had zero freeplay - Fixed

So the main concern out of all of these is the surging/bucking at low speeds. To me it seems like either the TPS is still not set quite right or the TPS is bad. I had a TPS go bad on my vstrom years ago and it felt kind of like this. Either that or the mapping is really bad as it's not at all smooth down low.

Overall I'm pretty satisfied with it even with the work left. Not looking forward to the fork seal job but it definitely needs to be done.

[scra99tch]

Check for any kinks in fuel line or maybe run it and check for hissing sound when opening gas tank.  Meaning run it then stop and check if gas tank lid is hard to pull off. 

TPS good place to start for baseline check but would be a surge or stumble if there were any dead spots in the sweep of the TPS.

[scra99tch]

Check plug wires and caps.

Maybe even pull the cam sensor check for grit.  This will leak if its not already, Clean and reapply some rtv sealent.

Where you located?

[scra99tch]

It should read 150mv baseline with the linkage arm off and the screw backed out all the way.  If I remember correctly.

There is one screw you should not mess with though.

The idea here is the set that throttle body baseline then with vacuum balance both.  I'll have to read through the procedure again, but there are several steps using the idle screws painted in yellow and the air bleeds. 

[Parashootist]

It should read 150mv baseline with the linkage arm off and the screw backed out all the way.  If I remember correctly.

There is one screw you should not mess with though.

The idea here is the set that throttle body baseline then with vacuum balance both.  I'll have to read through the procedure again, but there are several steps using the idle screws painted in yellow and the air bleeds.

I've already done the TPS procedure and throttle body sync. The bike did come with one old sensor and one new sensor. I haven't looked at them to see what they are.

I had the tank off, I don't believe the fuel line is kinked. I didn't try running with the fuel cap off, I assume you're wondering if the tank is not venting properly. When I've had that on other bikes it mostly affected higher speed running versus low speed.

I'm in Idaho.

[Parashootist]

Well I got the rear brake working a little bit. I need to remove the caliper so I can bleed it properly but it does work somewhat.

Auxiliary light has a burn bulb so that's an easy fix.

Progress.

[aklawok]

 The factory fuel mapping was poor back in 07'. Caused hesitation in the low range and in midrange during acceleration, with occasional hiccups. Guzzidiag and cable are necessary to read and reflash the map. There are improved ones available, and can be tailored if you choose to modify your intake or exhaust. I have a "beetle map" for stock setup in my CalVin and it was a definite improvement. I might even be able to give it to you if I find it.
Just did the fork seals on mine this year, was not too bad. The adjustable forks do not require anything special.
Remember that the rear brakes are linked, I have found that overwinter it softens and needs rebleeeding.

[Parashootist]

The factory fuel mapping was poor back in 07'. Caused hesitation in the low range and in midrange during acceleration, with occasional hiccups. Guzzidiag and cable are necessary to read and reflash the map. There are improved ones available, and can be tailored if you choose to modify your intake or exhaust. I have a "beetle map" for stock setup in my CalVin and it was a definite improvement. I might even be able to give it to you if I find it.
Just did the fork seals on mine this year, was not too bad. The adjustable forks do not require anything special.
Remember that the rear brakes are linked, I have found that overwinter it softens and needs rebleeeding.

I was reading up on the brake bleeding after I attempted it with my MityVac. I'll give it another go now that I have more information.

I ordered the cable today so hopefully I'll be able to connect to the bike soon. The low speed issue feels like more than just bad mapping. I can't imagine them releasing the map that way. I'd certainly be interested in the upgraded map if you find it though!

I've ordered replacement 35w bulbs for the auxiliary lights and will order fork seals as well.

Thanks

[Tom H]

You might check your throttle cables. If they are too tight, they could cause some jerkiness at low speeds. As mentioned the map could be the issue.

Linked brakes. Pedal is LH front and rear. Hand lever is RH front. Rear caliper, invert so the bleeder is facing up. Use a block of wood or the like between the pads to keep from popping the pistons out. Do the rear first, then the front. Tried the front first and it did not go well, at least when using the pedal to pump with.

Weak front brake. Could be pads. EBC HH or Semi Sintered work great.

Check you plug wires and caps. Caps are 5 K ohms and the coils IIRR are 3K ohms.

Tom

[Parashootist]

You might check your throttle cables. If they are too tight, they could cause some jerkiness at low speeds. As mentioned the map could be the issue.

Linked brakes. Pedal is LH front and rear. Hand lever is RH front. Rear caliper, invert so the bleeder is facing up. Use a block of wood or the like between the pads to keep from popping the pistons out. Do the rear first, then the front. Tried the front first and it did not go well, at least when using the pedal to pump with.

Weak front brake. Could be pads. EBC HH or Semi Sintered work great.

Check you plug wires and caps. Caps are 5 K ohms and the coils IIRR are 3K ohms.

Tom

Thanks Tom, I'll get the rear brake inverted to bleed it properly. It makes sense that the front brake is a bit weak since the lever is only doing one caliper. The pedal was doing nothing at all before so essentially I only had 1 out if 3 calipers working at all. The pedal now works a little. I provides some stopping power and then goes soft again once it gets past the firm portion of the travel.

I'll check the caps and wires.

[guzzisteve]

For integral brake bleed to get all air out, there is a bleeder at highest point on the splitter. Better than older models.

Never seen anything in print from Mfg on what the vacuum is supposed to be at manifolds, just make them equal.

[Parashootist]

For integral brake bleed to get all air out, there is a bleeder at highest point on the splitter. Better than older models.

Never seen anything in print from Mfg on what the vacuum is supposed to be at manifolds, just make them equal.

I took the caliper off and inverted it. I also bled the proportioning valve. I now have a nicely working rear break with fresh fluid. Thanks!

[Parashootist]

Took it for another spin down the road, I now have working brakes.

I'm tempted to order a TPS, based on the part number, this appears to be the correct one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352802908767

[guzzisteve]

This one is better quality, comes w/test readout.

https://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c.html

[Parashootist]

This one is better quality, comes w/test readout.

https://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c.html

I was considering that one, although I was also considering seeing if I could save 40 bucks haha. I'll have to think it over.