V7ii Main Seal DIY

[Error]

So my 2016 V7ii (North American) Stone looks like the main seal has decided it’s no longer interested in doing its Job.

It’s been showing the same oil leak all this season, whipe it off it comes back. I’m assuming it’s the main seal as it Dosent smell like trans fluid, even after pulling the starter and sniffing around. But I guess I’ll only know for sure once I have it apart.

I’m debating on doing this job myself (my preference) but it would be nice to find someone who has already done this with pictures so I can look at steps and the best way to do it. A step by step clutch job would be the same thing as well.

Anyone have done this deal or a clutch job on a V7i/ii/iii that want to share steps and pics?

[Vagrant]

When you pulled the starter was everything soaked with oil. I wouldn't touch it until the clutch starts slipping. Most Guzzis show that same outside oil; mist.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_technical_training_videos_eng_v750.html

[Error]

When you pulled the starter was everything soaked with oil. I wouldn't touch it until the clutch starts slipping. Most Guzzis show that same outside oil; mist.

Soaked no, but certainly a light a coating that I’m not super happy with in a dry clutch setup. The bike has 36k or so KMs on it. I’d like to sort it.

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_technical_training_videos_eng_v750.html

 These videos are fantastic, I’ve used them before. I was more looking for something to walk me through getting the bike torn down to the point I could address the seal.. It doesn't look all that complicated, but it would be nice to have a walk through to that point.

I suspect best practice is to just start removing parts from the rear wheel forward until I hit clutch lol.

[jrt]

I suspect best practice is to just start removing parts from the rear wheel forward until I hit clutch lol.

That's about right.  I don't know if you need any special tools for the small block clutch (you do for the big block).  i just haven't looked into it.
But- to get to the clutch is not as much hard as it is time consuming.

[Dirk_S]

I’ve been in a V7 II engine a couple times—once to replace the clutch (unnecessarily in hindsight) and also during my engine rebuild when I spun a big end bearing. You can either separate the frame completely from the motor like so (performed on the Lario last year to haul it into my basement):





…or crabbing the frame, making sure to separate all connections between motor and frame, like so, when I thought my clutch may be slipping, but turned out to be—ahem—a dirty fuel filter…<clears throat>:



If you remove the frame completely, you can more easily work on it in your dining room/kitchen like I did when I replaced my V7 II’s top end:



The custom bike-building bloke helping me out with the job in the middle photos had no experience with a Guzzi motor, but because he was once an auto mechanic—and these motors are very much like a car engine—we were able to do the job with no special tools; just a few of the mechanic tricks he had learned (spanner on a bolt to keep the flywheel from rotating when torque’ing down the clutch, using a long bolt to connect the clutch assembly first before resorting back to the standard flywheel bolts, understanding how to properly center things, etc. I also used the training videos and got a little help from a couple folks here.

[Error]

More or less what I expected. Would still love to see a tear down of the bike to this point in video, but I don't think there are any around.

I also ran into this picture, I believe it was on the Guzzi Tech site. This seems like its possible to leave the rear end in one piece, unbolt just the trans side and drop it out. This would be my preferred method I think.

Has anyone does it this way before?

[Tom H]

Your last picture of the trans and rear wheel together is IIRR how Guzzi installs the drive line at the factory. I think I have seen this in the manual??

I have done the seal/clutch crabbing like a Tonti by pulling the whell and then the rear dive/swing arm assy.. Clutch disc centering can be done without the factory tool. You "snug" up the clutch assy. while still being able to move the disc just a bit and then use a drill bit of descending sizes to feel around the clutch plate. Once the drill bit fits perfectly all the way around, the plate is centered.

Tom

[Dirk_S]

Highly recommend using a heat gun to soften the 2-in-1 intake snorkel to pry off the throttle body or manifolds.

[Error]

Highly recommend using a heat gun to soften the 2-in-1 intake snorkel to pry off the throttle body or manifolds.

Good idea. I muscled them off when doing a head gasket, as well as when removing the charcoal box. It was the hardest part of both jobs lol.