Any other specific tips on dealing with the powder coater? They have done quite a few bikes so they know their way around - but sometimes overconfidence gets in the way (or unfamiliarity with Guzzis) and things that shouldn't be coated get buried. I kinda don't want to take the steering head lock out (I do have the key), maybe that's a fools errand it should come out anyway?
The steering lock comes out easily, so for me it's a "no brainer" on removing it. You either use a thin blade of some sort to pry under the cover near the rivet, or sometimes tap it loose with a long drift (it you can find a good angle). Then use the key to remove the lock.
I ask the powdercoater to tape over where the lock cover, steering head and swingarm pivot bearings go, the front and rear of the driveshaft tunnel and point out where all of the threaded holes are in hopes that they'll plug them.
Personally, I would never consider to strip a fully functional final drive unless you A) want to learn how they go together or B) want to be absolutely certain it is well within spec. Or both. I have never considered either A or B as the risk of doing something wrong is too great for comfort. For me. Plus, should one fail, they can be found cheap secondhand.
Rear drives aren't rocket science if you're just going in to replace the seals. It's always nice for gear lube to stay inside, fresh seals are a way of helping to insure that. As long as one uses the same number of gaskets (normally 2 - one on either side of the large shim), there not much of a chance of messing things up. There's no seals in the pinion carrier assembly, so no need to disassemble that. "Cheap secondhand"
Maybe for Hondas and Yamahas, but not a good one for an 850-T - expect to pay $400 and up.
