Oil Pressure Warning - 2018 v7iii Stone

[TN Mark]

I’ve used a garden hose exactly once in the last 20+ years to clean my motorcycles. There’s just no reason to IMHO. Either of these cleaners with a damp and a dry microfiber cloth work fantastic.

[DoubleGuzzi]

You hose averse folks must ride in good weather only, with no country roads, salty winters, horse manure and other such niceties, to tarnish your bikes' finish.  I guess if you only roll 'em on & off your flatbed trucks, then they'll keep pretty clean.

[TN Mark]

Well, no reason to make assumptions.
I don’t know about other ‘hose averse’ folks but, no, we ride rain or shine, hot or cold etc.

IMHO, if you’re intent on using a garden hose: any pressure higher than an open hose with the metal tip cut off is just asking for problems.

You may be surprised at how good dirt and bugs get washed off when riding through a strong rain storm. My Victory CCT at over 101k miles still looks fresh as a daisy. In fact, so does my Victory Hard-Ball at 54k miles. And, well, so does my Eldorado 1400 at just 2k miles.

Some of us just like to ride and we like a beautiful looking motorcycle.

That one time I did use a hose is because I was at a biker event in Indiana on a farm. It must have rained 3” that Saturday. I had so much mud jammed all over and under the bike the hose was the only option. Typically, my off road riding is limited to dirt or gravel roads. Not an open farmer’s field. Then a good ride in the rain and I’m only left washing off road grime.

With continued cleaning using the aerosol products I posted, subsequent cleanings get easier and easier.

No garage or trailer queens here anyway. But, it’s completely possible to have a Go Pony that’s also a Show Pony.

My process:
1. I ‘hose down’ a section with the spray and let it soak it a bit.
2. I dampen a fresh microfiber cloth with the spray and start wiping away the dirt, grime etc.
3. I take a completely dry fresh microfiber cloth and buff out the section I just cleaned
4. Typically by the time I’m 3/4 done, the second fresh dry microfiber cloth turns into the dampened one so I start with a new dry microfiber cloth to wipe and buff.

PS: the sprays work on every surface of the bike. Metal, paint, windshield, rubber etc. as an added benefit, they keep your wire looms and rubber connectors fresh.

[73 sport]

      Gee, TNMark, those sprays you use sound fantastic. What brands do you recommend ?

[TN Mark]

Scroll up, I posted a picture.
I spent decades using Simple Green or S100 type cleaners. Each and everyone strips the plasticizers from every surface of the bike they come in contact with.
The cleaning/polishing sprays condition the plastic and rubber parts with each application.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Well, that's a comprehensive reply, TN Mark! 
I sit here surprised, gotta say. I can only assume that you go through a lot of expense/spray to keep 'em "shiny".
I reckon I'd be riding a rust bucket and/or even more penniless for fuel, if I went with that approach. I can only envisage stripping parts off regularly for a thorough clean.
My garage is full of partly used potions, lotions, waxes and other chemicals just to try to thwart the ravages of time. Come to think of it, that kinda treatment doesn't work on me either. 

Meanwhile, one wonders how the oil issue is progressing..

[TN Mark]

My local Honda dealer, Southern Honda Powersports sells the spray cans for about $8.00. One can does my big bike about 4 times. So, yes, effective, efficient and economical.
Most other Honda dealers charge double for a can.

Most cleaners dry out rubber, plastics and vinyls. This stuff preserves them.

[kballowe]

I sometimes run mine thru the carwash and I have cleaned them quite often with the garden hose.

A clean motorbike is a happy motorbike.

[kingoffleece]

If I rode year round in the UK I'd treat my bike(s) to the ACF 50 treatment.

I used that stuff for years on our snowplows when I lived in NY (almost 55 years) and it works a wonder, or treat as our UK friends say.  No matter WHAT anyone does on a motorcycle ride9s), there is NOTHING to compare with the constant salt and salt spray provided by the NY DOT.  Throw in a bit of magnesium chloride and theb some Calcium Chloride used on private parking lots and you can almost watch untreated metal rust.

I prefer the OBS product, which is the original Honda product before it was reformulated, or so they say, but either will do a fine job.

[Dirk_S]

@kingoffleece, thanks for reminding me that I have a whole bottle of ACF-50 sitting in my basement. Been avoiding it since reading some of the negative reviews about it, and instead continuing to stick with that Water Displacement Formula Attempt #40. I’m curious how long ACF-50 remains on a hot motor. The WD-40 quickly cooks off the cylinders and headers, but through two winters now, it’s been keeping the rest of the bike from rusting, including the BMW’s bare metal tank (provided I remember to spray it every few days).

Dirt and gravel can cling to WD-40, but should at least wash away; Fluid Film is similar but so thick that I don’t think it’s worth drenching the whole bike in it. Still, I think I read somewhere that it’s a little easier to wash FF away come spring than ACF-50.

All that’s to say, I rarely bother to use water on my bikes in winter, but I admit I probably don’t rack up the miles that some of you other winter riders do, and  I’m not remotely trying to keep the bikes looking spotless.

It’s a bummer that folks here are putting someone down for wanting to commute on a Guzzi V7. A little porky, sure. There’s always “a better bike for the purpose.” But a V7 isn’t bad. Won’t be curb-hopping and threading the needle at speed too easily, but maybe the OP has more patience ;)

[kingoffleece]

I've read features in UK BIKE mags about the ACF 50 shops there.  They mask off the brakes and a few other parts and coat the entire bike with a large spray wand.
Perhaps our UK members can pipe in, but the feature was detailed and had plenty of pics.

Like I said, on plow components there is nothing we ever found that was better.  It is thick like Fluid Film, which I know some others think is superior.

[DoubleGuzzi]

I've been using ACF-50 on my Street Twin and now on "the Shiny". Gave the Breva a quick squirt before storing at the back of the garage.
I give the discs a quick wipe of brake cleaner, just in case of over-spray.

[slopokes]

Now back to the original oil section—- if I can remember rite in the bmw airhead news letter to get the condensation out of the oil 12-14 highway miles is needed— much more on the oilhead…

[LibrarianFuture]

Hi all. Apologies for reviving my older post, it's just i've finally taken delivery of a new oil pressure sensor.

Whilst i'm sure it's not the issue, it was cheap enough to check off the list.

I've never replaced a pressure sensor before, and I can't really find any advice online. Does anyone have a general process they'd go through to replace it on a v7iii? For example, it does look kind of accessible, but I wondered if it was a tank off job.

Much appreciated everyone!

[guzzisteve]

I like lots of room & a good view so I take tank off & some smallblocks I take out the front of airbox. Haven't done a late one.

[Bulldog9]

Well, no reason to make assumptions.
I don’t know about other ‘hose averse’ folks but, no, we ride rain or shine, hot or cold etc.

IMHO, if you’re intent on using a garden hose: any pressure higher than an open hose with the metal tip cut off is just asking for problems.

You may be surprised at how good dirt and bugs get washed off when riding through a strong rain storm. My Victory CCT at over 101k miles still looks fresh as a daisy. In fact, so does my Victory Hard-Ball at 54k miles. And, well, so does my Eldorado 1400 at just 2k miles.

Some of us just like to ride and we like a beautiful looking motorcycle.

That one time I did use a hose is because I was at a biker event in Indiana on a farm. It must have rained 3” that Saturday. I had so much mud jammed all over and under the bike the hose was the only option. Typically, my off road riding is limited to dirt or gravel roads. Not an open farmer’s field. Then a good ride in the rain and I’m only left washing off road grime.

With continued cleaning using the aerosol products I posted, subsequent cleanings get easier and easier.

No garage or trailer queens here anyway. But, it’s completely possible to have a Go Pony that’s also a Show Pony.

My process:
1. I ‘hose down’ a section with the spray and let it soak it a bit.
2. I dampen a fresh microfiber cloth with the spray and start wiping away the dirt, grime etc.
3. I take a completely dry fresh microfiber cloth and buff out the section I just cleaned
4. Typically by the time I’m 3/4 done, the second fresh dry microfiber cloth turns into the dampened one so I start with a new dry microfiber cloth to wipe and buff.

PS: the sprays work on every surface of the bike. Metal, paint, windshield, rubber etc. as an added benefit, they keep your wire looms and rubber connectors fresh.

I feel like a heathen............ .. I keep my seat, fenders, tank and gauges/screen clean, but never touch the rest of my bikes unless I am changing tires or other mechanical issue. I'll give the whole wheel/fork/brake/swingarm assemblies a full cleaning when I do the tires, and usually swap out the brake pads and fluid every 2nd set of tires just because. They are cheap, and keep everything moving well. I also will disconnect, treat and replug every electrical connector I can get to and go over the bike.

Back in the day when I only had 2 bikes, I would do a full tear down/clean/polish and reassemble 1X a year.  Not ideal, and with 6 bikes on the road ends up being every 3-4 years, but it is what it is.

FWIW, when cleaning up into the engine/TB/Carb areas, or frame, I will just lightly spray with Ballistol then wipe with microfiber towel, once to get most of the wet and grime, then follow with a clean dry one.

As for Combustion Mayo, it's common in any cold/cool/humid area. Some make lots, some little, but the answer is ALWAYS to get the motor oil and engine hot enough to burn nit all out. Same principle for exhaust system condensation. Burn that out!

Back on Topic, Did the OP ever report back on the findings?

[Bulldog9]

Hi all. Apologies for reviving my older post, it's just i've finally taken delivery of a new oil pressure sensor.

Whilst i'm sure it's not the issue, it was cheap enough to check off the list.

I've never replaced a pressure sensor before, and I can't really find any advice online. Does anyone have a general process they'd go through to replace it on a v7iii? For example, it does look kind of accessible, but I wondered if it was a tank off job.

Much appreciated everyone!

Pull the tank, should be easy to find, it is in the valley. Can't remember the small block off the top of my head, but on the Big Block CARC bikes it is closer to the left jug and a bit forward of center. Make sure the connection is solid and you treat it. I like to use deoxit it. I use the little nail polish bottle and brush and coat both. connector and tang. Some will use vaseline or the much hated dielectric gel. Main goal is to prevent corrosion on the connector.

[Bulldog9]

I sometimes run mine thru the carwash and I have cleaned them quite often with the garden hose.

A clean motorbike is a happy motorbike.

Put me on the waiting list for that Red Eldo............. 

I am waiting for at least 3 people to get tired of theirs. lol

[LibrarianFuture]

Regarding the frequent washing, you aren’t using a forced water nozzle are you? Hard spraying can disturb quite a few thing's, electrical and mechanical, like bearings and connectors ...my shop guy just wipes things down with a clean slightly oiled shop rag, which has the extra benefit of repelling water…just a dribble works for a rinse if you’re using soap and water..followed by a leaf blower to drive away residual moisture …good luck!

…I do have to admit that yes, my general regime is snowfoam via pressure washer, and then a rinse on its most gentle setting.

I can absolutely understand now that this is a bad idea… but if you ride year round in the Welsh hills, I cannot begin to tell you how much crud can build up on your bike. It gets to places which a sponge and brush just will not reach.

I totally understand it’s the wrong bike to ride year round btw. It’s just my circumstances have ended up that way. When I can, I’ll buy a proper run around.

The new oil pressure sensor has arrived today. Fingers crossed that’s the issue!

[LibrarianFuture]

Pull the tank, should be easy to find, it is in the valley. Can't remember the small block off the top of my head, but on the Big Block CARC bikes it is closer to the left jug and a bit forward of center. Make sure the connection is solid and you treat it. I like to use deoxit it. I use the little nail polish bottle and brush and coat both. connector and tang. Some will use vaseline or the much hated dielectric gel. Main goal is to prevent corrosion on the connector.

Much appreciated Bulldog, thankyou. I do only have some Vaseline available so I’ll use that.

The sensor is centre - rear on this one. I’ve



 attached a diagram for it.

Don’t suppose you know of any other gotchas whilst doing something like this? It looks fairly straightforward which makes me think I’m missing something 

[Dirk_S]

…
I totally understand it’s the wrong bike to ride year round btw…
…

“Bollocks!” the lone voice shouted from the back row of the balcony.

[Dirk_S]

Don’t suppose you know of any other gotchas whilst doing something like this? It looks fairly straightforward which makes me think I’m missing something 

Prepare yourself for a good 10 minutes of straight cussing over the fuel “quick disconnect” when trying to remove the tank. Hopefully you’ve done a similar one in the past and know how much a pain in the patootie it can be if you don’t have the technique down just right. You can do a Google / YouTube search for the procedure.

[LibrarianFuture]

“Bollocks!” the lone voice shouted from the back row of the balcony.

😂 I do have to agree with you to honest! I’ve not half put this v7 through some grief during my ownership, and I’m delighted with how it’s managed the last 70k with an idiot like me on it.

[LibrarianFuture]

Prepare yourself for a good 10 minutes of straight cussing over the fuel “quick disconnect” when trying to remove the tank. Hopefully you’ve done a similar one in the past and know how much a pain in the patootie it can be if you don’t have the technique down just right. You can do a Google / YouTube search for the procedure.

… I cannot find a video on my end. I’m guessing it’ll be a lovely surprise?

[Dirk_S]

… I cannot find a video on my end. I’m guessing it’ll be a lovely surprise?

Not the same bike, but the same fitting. The instructions in the description are spot on. I can’t recall if the angel who posted this video (and a similar one) resides on this forum or not, but they deserve the best rhubarb pie in town as a token of gratitude.

https://youtu.be/4SYAS5xsUlo?si=YFdOVFJGFlns42LN

[LibrarianFuture]

Not the same bike, but the same fitting. The instructions in the description are spot on. I can’t recall if the angel who posted this video (and a similar one) resides on this forum or not, but they deserve the best rhubarb pie in town as a token of gratitude.

https://youtu.be/4SYAS5xsUlo?si=YFdOVFJGFlns42LN

That’s hugely useful. Thankyou Dirk.

[Bulldog9]

Prepare yourself for a good 10 minutes of straight cussing over the fuel “quick disconnect” when trying to remove the tank. Hopefully you’ve done a similar one in the past and know how much a pain in the patootie it can be if you don’t have the technique down just right. You can do a Google / YouTube search for the procedure.

For whatever reason, I've never had much of a problem with that. Is definitely NOT easy, and I don't relish it, but I always get it on the 2nd-3rd try.

1. Lift and prop up the back of the tank, ensure it is clean and grease free and hands are dry.
2. With right hand position hand so your index and thumb are on the ring and hand is under the line (palm facing up).
3. Squeeze the line TIGHT in your middle/ring/pinky finger and push & pull the hose back and forth firmly, but not to break the plastic elbow.
4. Squeeze line tight and push it towards the elbow/connector and at the same time squeeze the ring between index and thumb and pull it back towards your hand (or if the button type, press the button) and push the whole thing slightly back and forth.

It should pop off..... That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. Have done it dozens of times.  Norge, Griso, 1200 Sport, V7ii and multiple other bikes for friends.

Glad I didn't know it was such a PIT@, I would have been more nervous the first time.

[Kev m]

Just because no one explicitly said it yet

Before attempting to disconnect the fuel line, release any fuel pressure.

This is done by unplugging the fuel pump connector and cranking the motor a few times so the injectors bleed down the fuel line pressure.

[Bulldog9]

Just because no one explicitly said it yet

Before attempting to disconnect the fuel line, release any fuel pressure.

This is done by unplugging the fuel pump connector and cranking the motor a few times so the injectors bleed down the fuel line pressure.

Absolutely!  I missed that CRITICAL part. Makes it much easier when the pressure is released.

[Dirk_S]

Just because no one explicitly said it yet

Before attempting to disconnect the fuel line, release any fuel pressure.

This is done by unplugging the fuel pump connector and cranking the motor a few times so the injectors bleed down the fuel line pressure.

It’s shown and described in the YouTube video that I linked to. I claim grandfathering!