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First off it sounds like you think the side has some significance and assume that all chains are on the left. The side is just a function of design and it doesn't have to be left.
Both I believe regardless of side or chain vs shaf the function is to dampen driveline lash, in both on and off throttle input changes.
Sorry, I should’ve said generally on the left side. Every, or nearly every chain-driven bike I’ve ridden or looked at, the chain has been on the left. Regardless, i think I’m still correct in my understanding of their purpose. or maybe I’m simply not observant enough, quite possible.But the left side of a Guzzi small block rear wheel has neither a sprocket nor a final drive acting upon it. The left side cush rubbers press between the inside of the hub and the brake rotor. Seems to me the right side cush rubbers are doing that driveline lash damping—are the left side cush rubbers also in some way?
Maybe I didn't describe it well, but they are all doing driveline lash, both on and off the throttle. And wherever the input comes in, including the sprocket which causes movement/lash between the wheel and feeling as it grabs or releases.
Dirk, I understand what you're asking, when others don't. Perhaps it helps stop a ringing noise from the disc rotor - very unlikely and just speculating. Heck knows what other purpose they could have; I'll take a closer look when I reassemble the rear wheel on my V7C.
How do the left side rubbers provide cushion for drivetrain lash if they’re not directly contacting the drive train? That’s my guess, too. The small block rear hub is big, light, and a bit chasmic in material. I could see them simply used for vibration or sound damping.
What does the drive mechanism look like? It is only driving small round pins that fit in the holes in the red cushions?Picture please.
Wait what? On what application are the rubbers not on the driveline? On my smallblocks they go between the wheel hub and the final drive hub? On the JAPanInc products I am picturing they go between a sprocket hub and wheel hub. What are you showing in those photos?
What are you showing in those photos?
When I replaced the wire-spoked wheels on my v7 with cast wheels, I had to swap the rear brake disc. I noticed that that one wheel type had rubbers on the disc side and the other did not. The disc bolted up the same way in either case.
Wonder why BMW is sans cush drives on their shafties?
Looks like an explanation for the rubber brake rotor isolators from years ago on this forum is to address squeal.
I’m not going to say publicly how long it took me to understand you were using sarcasm.
I was actually serious. Those little square-ish indentations in the red blocks look like they are only 1/8" deep.Obviously they must only look that way in the picture, and are much deeper in reality, right?
This is a great thread. My guess would be to dampen/reduce noise and probably not very effective.
They are there to help absorb the vibration from the engine. Engines don't have perfectly smooth output, each cylinder firing produces a push that kind of dies out at the end of its stroke. Also firings don't come evenly spaced, the rubbers are there to adsorb some of the shocks. As mentioned Harleys use a device called a compensator which is a device with a set of spring loaded ramps that climb up each other to absorb vibration, best I can describe it. Some Harley owners will replace the miserable failure prone compensator with a sprocket. It works but increases wear and possible failures of the transmission. I don't know about current BMW's but Airheads have an elongated ball which fits in a similar socket under pressure from a spring. Under torque and vibration from uneven power strokes, although flat twins are generally quite smooth due to engine design, the ball and socket try to push away from each other absorbing socks and vibration. I have tried to explain it as best I can. BTW Harleys aren't all the same, Big Twins have the drive pulley on the left side and the Sportsters have it on the right side.I don't remember my Sportster doing it much but big twins will clank pretty well if the drive line is left engaged a real low rpm as the ramps come to the end of their range.kk
This is a great thread. ..Unless of course, one is using the wrong gear oil in the final drive.....
He…is…talking…about…the…brake…side.I will suggest they are present to dampen out torque reactions from when ABS kicks in. I don’t have a V7, mine is a V85, but I would ask if the disc carrier engages into those blocks in any way.Other than that, I’m clueless.
I've had the same thought about the rubber isolators on some front sprockets, or the harmonic ring on some rear sprockets the first time I came across those. They seemed like silly little designs, but I learned from trying aftermarket sprockets without them that they are effective and if a bike has them from the factory then they're probably there for a reason that is good enough (noisy enough) to justify their cost.
Nailed it! Speaking of puncture prone tyres..
When the fixed rotor is bolted on, the rubber blocks sit just proud enough that they create a bit of resistance against the disc carrier when torquing down. I’m not sure if they changed the design of the rear hub in 2004, or simply added the pucks—upon cursory search, it doesn’t appear that the rear hub could be purchased separately prior to 2004, but I suspect the pucks were at least a response to that resonance, considering it looks like a large, open drum that could be used to play Ween’s “Bananas and Blow” (steel drum reference for those who missed out on the Boognish wagon: https://youtu.be/IWrYNcv7fPk?si=SPIhAR-TfsvPiK8c)
I'm going with noise dampening for 300 Alex. …The rubber blocks was a cheap easy fix.What did I win Alex?