2012 Moto Guzzi V7, what to look for

[sdcr]

Interested in a black, 2012 V7. Realizing that these small blocks have evolved over the last 14 years, please share your experience, issues etc.
This is a low mileage example. Anything to look out for?

[Dirk_S]

Look out for a 6th gear, traction control, and ABS light indicators ;)

[DoubleGuzzi]

Look out for a 6th gear, traction control, and ABS light indicators ;)

On a 2012? It may be a Mark I, with none of the above.

Check the rear of the engine, to see if anyone has been paying attention there - is it clean or covered in crud? Does the clutch operate smoothly and the bike move in and out of neutral easily, with engine running? When was the last time the air filter was changed? Did the last oil change include gearbox and rear drive? Does the bike idle consistently and rev cleanly from idle?

[kingoffleece]

I guess once again I'll be "that" guy.
2012?  All rubber needs to be inspected and/or replaced.  All fluids.  While the forks ore off I'd install Gold Valves.  Inexpensive and SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better than as delivered.  I'd expect to need new rear shocks.  Stock were pretty bad and they are old now anyway.  Full fuel system clean and expectation.

[DoubleGuzzi]

..it was still only good for ~ 3hours before my a$$ was hurting.

I'd be delighted to get 2 hours without feeling some pain. 

[Dirk_S]

On a 2012? It may be a Mark I, with none of the above.

That was the point—it wouldn’t be a 2012 if it had that stuff. I’ve / we’ve seen enough folks here and elsewhere who swear they have a certain model year when it turns out to not be the case based off simple canceling factors. I once tried to give a friendly clarification to a seller on the model he was selling, and the person got mad at me, swearing up and down he knew what he had (spoiler: he didn’t). So, buyer beware :)

[DoubleGuzzi]

I guess once again I'll be "that" guy.

That's 'cos you're rich and don't mind throwing money at things. 
Alternatively, just bung a seat cover on it and ride. 

That was the point..

That was too subtle for me - maybe it's the flu that I've got, that prevents me reading between the lines or appreciate satire. 

[Perazzimx14]

What to look for.

- Clean/clear title in the seller name.
- Priced right
- Look for any excessive damage like is the left side ground off from sliding down the highway or are the fork folded back because the seler ran into a brick wall. Scuff and scrapes are going to happen if you want a bike without them buy new.
- Turn the key to on stab the starter and if the motor roars to life, idles decently and is not puking oil out on the ground
- Go for a short ride and if the wheels don't fall off or the engine seized hne you get back pay the seller and load tth ebike up.

Probably the last 15 to 20 bikes I have bought I haven't even test rode. Just hit the starter listen to the engine for 20 seconds and then move onto the financial aspect of the deal. I have not been surprised or disappointed with any of them once I got them home and went through them. As much as we want to believe our motorcycles are delicate little flowers that need constant excessive care, they are not.

Buy, ride, enjoy!

[kingoffleece]

No.  Not rich.  I just like my stuff to work, and work correctly.  There's nothing noble about getting 150 out on something you just got and waiting 5 hours to !0 get home 2) get truck and trailer 3) go retrieve.

No thanks.  I'll stick with what I know over the past 60 years of owning motorcycles.  Maintenance matters.  I'll use the professional SCUBA mixed gas instructor card I have to say that preventative maintenance matters a LOT.

[Cam3512]

That was a transition year.  I believe first year with a metal tank (good).  Might still have dual throttle bodies, went to single in ‘13.  I’m sure Kev will be along shortly with more deets.

[Anomaly]

That was a transition year.  I believe first year with a metal tank (good).  Might still have dual throttle bodies,  Went to single in ‘13.  I’m sure Kev will be along shortly with more deets.

Correct, on both counts. I had one (2012, black!). Loved it, sold it for funds to buy a T3 California...

[Kev m]

What Cam said!

A 2012 in North America should be a DUAL THROTTLE BODY model, but it at least should have the larger metal tank of the MKI Single Throttle Body which didn't arrive here except as a 2013 model (even though mine arrived in Nov of 2012).

I'm NOT positive if the dual throttle body models had the overcharging regulator problem of the MKI Singles of 2013-14. But it isn't a bad idea to check that the charging voltage is below 15V when running.

and KOF is of course correct about at least inspecting anything rubber and expecting some decay. Especially in a low mileage version which means things like seals didn't get splashed with fresh oil on one side as often as might be nice.

Other than that I'm not as familiar with any pattern problems on the late dual throttle body V7C bikes. Service is a little more fiddly and they hadn't made whatever changes to piston and crankcase vent design that seems to have solved the sudden and unexplained oil consumption issues. Those changes occurred with the MKI Singles.

Personally the improvements were enough for me to delay my purchase back in the day for the 2013 I wound up with an still enjoy to this day.

So maybe the BIGGEST thing to look out for is a ROCK BOTTOM price.

[Perazzimx14]

Interested in a black, 2012 V7. Realizing that these small blocks have evolved ov the last 14 years, please share your experience, issues etc.
This is a low mileage example. Anything to look out for?

The small block has been evolving for 48 years since they were released in 1978 as the V35/V50

[sdcr]

I haven’t seen it in person, as I am out of state now. Seller says he has clean title, and says never dropped. 6000 miles, and new tire(s).
These pics are from the ad.

[mhershon]

Listen to Cam and listen to Kev. Cam owned my V7 for 15,000 miles and sold it to me with all the imperfections perfected. Kev is his friend. Betw them, there is almost nothing they do not know about those bikes. My bike is a '14, so it has just one throttle body, no mystery. It needed and got an improved voltage regulator. It got a long-term reliable fuel filter. If you have seen your prospective bike in the flesh, and it appears to have been stored indoors and not crashed, if the owner seems at all mechanically aware and owns his/her own metric tools, and you would not mind spending a few winter evenings in your garage bringing your V7 up to snuff, you could have a fine mount by spring...and for many springs in the future.
If it is NOT a nice, clean, cared-for motorcycle, as Kev suggests: Look for a later model. PS Just saw the photos! Nice bike!

[Cam3512]

Listen to Cam and listen to Kev. Cam owned my V7 for 15,000 miles and sold it to me with all the imperfections perfected. Kev is his friend. Betw them, there is almost nothing they do not know about those bikes. My bike is a '14, so it has just one throttle body, no mystery. It needed and got an improved voltage regulator. It got a long-term reliable fuel filter. If you have seen your prospective bike in the flesh, and it appears to have been stored indoors and not crashed, if the owner seems at all mechanically aware and owns his/her own metric tools, and you would not mind spending a few winter evenings in your garage bringing your V7 up to snuff, you could have a fine mount by spring...and for many springs in the future.
If it is NOT a nice, clean, cared-for motorcycle, as Kev suggests: Look for a later model. PS Just saw the photos! Nice bike!

I'd be remiss if I didn't add you did a fly and ride, and rode it all the way back to Denver from NJ!  Hard core.

[DoubleGuzzi]

That's my favourite paint scheme for the V7 Classic and that one looks to be in considerably better condition than the one I bought, for just over the equivalent of $2200.
Metal tank will be a bonus as well as the previously mentioned (internal) fuel filter check//change.
Carefully check wheel and steering bearings for play (you'll need assistance to balance on the side stand), as grease is not overly applied in the factory.
Be aware of any paint flaking on wheel hubs and rear drive, plus rusty spoke nipples and chrome rims.
The extensive blueing of the header pipes might suggest a tune up/Guzzdiag check is advisable, though many people actually like the colour change. Nothing that a bit of Yoshimura Stain Magic won't wipe off, should you wish.
Front indicators should be chrome backed like the rear; why were they changed?
 
Personally, if price is sensible then I'd have put down a deposit already!!! 

[Perazzimx14]

I haven’t seen it in person, as I am out of state now. Seller says he has clean title, and says never dropped. 6000 miles, and new tire(s).
These pics are from the ad.

Please do not take this as anything more than a question but are you panic buying an Guzzi......any Guzzi. 2 weeks ago it was the Norge this week iths the V7.  Do you want a V7 or a Norge or do you really want something else but out of convenience these bikes are potential purchases.

I've found buying out of convenience leads to selling quicklys as it not what I really wanted. Its a buyers market if there is a specific bike that really gets your heart pounding, look for it not something/anything else just because it close or priced right.

[DoubleGuzzi]

^ Makes a good point. Considerably different bikes, especially if you are in the region of 6' tall. The V7 Classic is light and low, compared to a Norge.

[sdcr]

“…. but are you panic buying an Guzzi.….”

That’s funny. I’ve bought lots of motorbikes, but don’t recall buying in a panic.

But, to answer your question, the Norge is about 7 miles from my house, so I was wondering whether it was actually a good bike. What I found, was a bike that too  heavy, and as far as condition, see my write up in the 800 mile Norge thread.

I have always liked the V7 series, and this black one appears to be in very good shape. The members here have been more than helpful, in educating me on some of the nuances with the 2012 iteration.

I hope that this answers your questions…

[Perazzimx14]

FWIW I had a 2012 Vr& that I bought new. It was the 1st of the metal tanks and still had dual throttle bodies. Ran fine in stock trim but when added Mistrals I ended up getting the ECU reflashed because it sounded like I lit a pack of Black Cats every time I let off the throttle.

My biggest no go with any of the V7 series bikes is the spoke wheels are tube type. Even on my V7R I ended up sourcing Breva 750 wheels and retrofitting them so I could go tubeless.

[malik]

Looks a beauty - pristine condition from the photos - not really run in yet (my 2010 loosened up at 15,000km, then again at 30 000) - the twin throttle body engine is sweet, idles at 1100rpm ( the 1TB is busier at 1340rpm), has a well developed, stable & flexible ECU.

With only 6,000 miles on the clock, there should be no wear to speak of - later in life the chrome on the rims can show early rust in the valleys so needs early care. The only known model-specific problems were the rare disappearing oil for no known reason, and the burning out of the connector for the 2 yellow wires from the alternator to the reg/rec (this connector lives under the front of the tank on the RHS of the headstock & if by chance is does occur, it's an easy fix).

The breather hoses are a type of rubber & do perish in time - the ones that seem to go first are the 2 from the rear of the rocker covers to the breather box, & usually first at the hose clamp under the rocker cover. About the same time the fuel overflow drain tube splits where it joins the fuel tank underneath.

The fuel filter is likely to be the half plastic/half metal affair inside the fuel tank which can separate - some do, some don't - but best to have a spare in stock, just in case.

IMPORTANT - check that the sacred screw on the throttle body on the LHS still has its yellow paint on it. It should never be messed with.

If the valve cover gaskets are the green cardboard affair, they will likely need replacing with the newer black springy ones the first time you check the tappets.

No matter was the manual says, the tyre pressures should be set at 36 & 36psi & 38/38 with pillion &/or luggage. (Note: for me, Avon Roadrider AM26 are the superior tyre on this bike).

The bluing on the header pipes is normal- they are twin-walled & it has been known that the spot welds at the muffler end can fail, resulting in a knocking/tapping noise.

Check to see if the toolbag under the seat has a short section of 14mm hex rod, which with the 14mm spanner you will need to undo the front axle. This did not come in the toolbag on my 2014 V7. Awkward. The rear axle nut is 24mm,  which is much more common.

I noticed the rear indicators are the round chrome-like versions on hard grey plastic stalks. The front ones are usually the same. It doesn't take much to break them. The bike in the photo looks to have the Breva indicators on the front. A better substitute are those from the later 1TB V7 with bendy rubber stalks.

The sidecover grommets get hard (from the factory) and fall out when pushed with the prongs when you're putting the cover back on. Keep any eye on that & substitute with new afternarket ones (from just about anywhere).

If you're likely to hold onto this bike for the long term, keep in mind that the engine, gearbox, final drive, swingarm, headlight & more are shared with the Breva 750 & the Nevada, so there are more sources of second hand spare parts. This has proven to come in handy along the way.

That's about all I can think of at the moment, though I will say that I prefer the twin throttle body Classic to the first of the 1TB bikes, and I have test ridden the V7 850 - assessed that, for me at least, it wasn't so significantly better to be worth the cost of changing over.

Best of luck - I hope you grab it.

[Dirk_S]

…The bluing on the header pipes is normal- they are twin-walled & it has been known that the spot welds at the muffler end can fail, resulting in a knocking/tapping noise…

I thought the headers on Heron head small blocks were single-walled.

[DoubleGuzzi]

I thought the headers on Heron head small blocks were single-walled.

..and that's why they blue.

[sdcr]

Looks a beauty - pristine condition from the photos - not really run in yet (my 2010 loosened up at 15,000km, then again at 30 000) - the twin throttle body engine is sweet, idles at 1100rpm ( the 1TB is busier at 1340rpm), has a well developed, stable & flexible ECU.

With only 6,000 miles on the clock, there should be no wear to speak of - later in life the chrome on the rims can show early rust in the valleys so needs early care. The only known model-specific problems were the rare disappearing oil for no known reason, and the burning out of the connector for the 2 yellow wires from the alternator to the reg/rec (this connector lives under the front of the tank on the RHS of the headstock & if by chance is does occur, it's an easy fix).

The breather hoses are a type of rubber & do perish in time - the ones that seem to go first are the 2 from the rear of the rocker covers to the breather box, & usually first at the hose clamp under the rocker cover. About the same time the fuel overflow drain tube splits where it joins the fuel tank underneath.

The fuel filter is likely to be the half plastic/half metal affair inside the fuel tank which can separate - some do, some don't - but best to have a spare in stock, just in case.

IMPORTANT - check that the sacred screw on the throttle body on the LHS still has its yellow paint on it. It should never be messed with.

If the valve cover gaskets are the green cardboard affair, they will likely need replacing with the newer black springy ones the first time you check the tappets.

No matter was the manual says, the tyre pressures should be set at 36 & 36psi & 38/38 with pillion &/or luggage. (Note: for me, Avon Roadrider AM26 are the superior tyre on this bike).

The bluing on the header pipes is normal- they are twin-walled & it has been known that the spot welds at the muffler end can fail, resulting in a knocking/tapping noise.

Check to see if the toolbag under the seat has a short section of 14mm hex rod, which with the 14mm spanner you will need to undo the front axle. This did not come in the toolbag on my 2014 V7. Awkward. The rear axle nut is 24mm,  which is much more common.

I noticed the rear indicators are the round chrome-like versions on hard grey plastic stalks. The front ones are usually the same. It doesn't take much to break them. The bike in the photo looks to have the Breva indicators on the front. A better substitute are those from the later 1TB V7 with bendy rubber stalks.

The sidecover grommets get hard (from the factory) and fall out when pushed with the prongs when you're putting the cover back on. Keep any eye on that & substitute with new afternarket ones (from just about anywhere).

If you're likely to hold onto this bike for the long term, keep in mind that the engine, gearbox, final drive, swingarm, headlight & more are shared with the Breva 750 & the Nevada, so there are more sources of second hand spare parts. This has proven to come in handy along the way.

That's about all I can think of at the moment, though I will say that I prefer the twin throttle body Classic to the first of the 1TB bikes, and I have test ridden the V7 850 - assessed that, for me at least, it wasn't so significantly better to be worth the cost of changing over.

Best of luck - I hope you grab it.

Thanks for this info. I think it looks very good in pics too.

The owner, who bought it  from the original owner, has been candid about the bike. He isn’t sure if the fuel filter has been changed yet. He did put new tires recently.
Unfortunately, I won’t be able to see it until early next week, as I am out of state now.

With just 6000 miles, new Michelin tires, what would be a fair price?

[Kev m]

I shyte you not, but $2k.

I don't think I'd go $3k.

And I vehemently disagree, I would rather pay double for a MkI single throttle body than half for a 2TB.

BUT that's why there are different flavors I guess.

[DoubleGuzzi]

He isn’t sure if the fuel filter has been changed yet. ..
With just 6000 miles, new Michelin tires, what would be a fair price?

Fuel filter is an easy enough item to change, if somewhat time consuming. Consider budgeting for new submersible fuel hose and up to four pinch/single-ear clamps. You'll likely get away with the original fuel pump plate gasket, as I did on my 2008 Breva. The fuel hose ups the budget a good bit and certainly in the U.K. costs as much as/more than the filter itself!

Assuming it looks as good in the flesh, I'd be "happy as Larry" if purchased for circa $2500 
(There's a dstealer in the UK looking for £4000 for one!)

[Edit]
I have a vacuum gauge so don't mind the dual body injection, though admittedly it does add to the maintenance side of things.

[Kev m]

[Edit]
I have a vacuum gauge so don't mind the dual body injection, though admittedly it does add to the maintenance side of things.

And the air cleaner is much harder to get to.

And the wheels are heavier (than either the later cast or spoke).

And the oil consumption issue should you be one of the unlucky ones.

I have the press release somewhere, there were way more changes than most people realized. I think it was something like 70% of the internal engine parts were new/redesigned.

[sdcr]

Kev, Double Goose,
Thanks, good info.

[Perazzimx14]

I have to agree with the 2K valuation. There is a very small market for these bikes in an already abysmal motorcycle market.