2012 Moto Guzzi V7, what to look for

[TN Mark]

The bluing on the header pipes is normal- they are twin-walled & it has been known that the spot welds at the muffler end can fail, resulting in a knocking/tapping noise.

I'm used to seeing blue/golden header pipes 4" to maybe 6" from the head. But all the way down to horizontal. I've not seen that and would highly question the fuel map on this bike. It appears, from those head pipes, it's running WAY TOO lean and WAY TOO hot.
I've simply not seen oem header pipes that distorted.

IMHO, find pictures of 10 other 2012 V7's to confirm that level of head pipe discoloration is 'normal'. Otherwise, keep looking and walk away from this particular Guzzi

[Dr. Enzo Toma]

I have no personal experience with this era of V7, but I thought I'd chime in with my opinion and observation that low miles isn't necessarily a big positive on a motorcycle that is now over a decade old. As others mentioned, there are materials that don't age well. If it sat for an extended period of time, that also increases risk for corrosion and pitting around wear/friction surfaces, even internally in the engine & gear box. Ideally you want to know the bike was stored well, maintenance items addressed based on time and not just mileage, and that it was exercised on occasion. There's also potential for manufacturing/assembly issues to be present but to have not yet shown themselves at 6k miles. On my 2022 Moto Guzzi V7 the steering head bearings lacking grease didn't become apparent until 4k miles and the poorly shimmed final drive didn't show symptoms of issue until just over 12k miles. Just some things for your consideration.

[Perazzimx14]

I have no personal experience with this era of V7, but I thought I'd chime in with my opinion and observation that low miles isn't necessarily a big positive on a motorcycle that is now over a decade old. As others mentioned, there are materials that don't age well. If it sat for an extended period of time, that also increases risk for corrosion and pitting around wear/friction surfaces, even internally in the engine & gear box. Ideally you want to know the bike was stored well, maintenance items addressed based on time and not just mileage, and that it was exercised on occasion. There's also potential for manufacturing/assembly issues to be present but to have not yet shown themselves at 6k miles. On my 2022 Moto Guzzi V7 the steering head bearings lacking grease didn't become apparent until 4k miles and the poorly shimmed final drive didn't show symptoms of issue until just over 12k miles. Just some things for your consideration.

A lot of this I believe is internet lore. I have bought older bikes with less mileage and as long as they were not stored on a sandbar in the middle of the ocean they have taken little more than routine maintenance to get them back to being roadworthy. I could care less if there has been zero service done ot it in last decade + as long as it sat undisturbed under decent shelter it'll likely be fine.

My last bike in a similar situation was purchased 3/1/26 and was a 2010 R1200GS with 2,280 miles. Got it home changed the oils, fluids and filters put new fuel in it and it was like new.

[Kev m]

A lot of this I believe is internet lore. I have bought older bikes with less mileage and as long as they were not stored on a sandbar in the middle of the ocean they have taken little more than routine maintenance to get them back to being roadworthy. I could care less if there has been zero service done ot it in last decade + as long as it sat undisturbed under decent shelter it'll likely be fine.

My last bike in a similar situation was purchased 3/1/26 and was a 2010 R1200GS with 2,280 miles. Got it home changed the oils, fluids and filters put new fuel in it and it was like new.

I don't think it's lore, but it is hit or miss.

Severe temperature fluctuations, humid or salty environment, baking in the sun, or even just started and idled here and there can be enough to slowly destroy something. We rarely know for sure what was or was not done on a low mileage used bike that's been around for a while.

[DoubleGuzzi]

..it is hit or miss.

That we can agree on. It's a chance that you take and is often the case when purchasing anything used. Yup, one tries to reduce the risk but there's often nothing to tell whether a previous owner has done something stupid/foolhardy or just plain unsympathetic.

[Perazzimx14]

I don't think it's lore, but it is hit or miss.

Severe temperature fluctuations, humid or salty environment, baking in the sun, or even just started and idled here and there can be enough to slowly destroy something. We rarely know for sure what was or was not done on a low mileage used bike that's been around for a while.

Usually nothing has been done to them especially after the battery dies and why they are such low mileage. They are just forgotten about.

As I mentioned if the bike has set undisturbed in a sheltered environment it has little more if any risk than a bike with higher mileage bike.

[malik]

I thought the headers on Heron head small blocks were single-walled.

My V7C definitely had double walled headers, one of which lost its tac welds at the bottom & so rattled along with the revs. Instead of the usual fix - drilling a couple of small holes through the outer wall & applying fresh taps, I opted for the stainless Agostini headers. Worked well, and I thought the larger pipe improved the running, but that could well have been a function of their cost. After I had bought these, Agostini was also selling these headers in titanium, which would have been nicer - titanium produces a different, more attractive bluing.

[DoubleGuzzi]

My V7C definitely had double walled headers..

Strange. 
For my 1st Breva, I bought used replacement headers, that were in better condition. The ones that I removed subsequently got fitted to my V7C. My current Breva has the same header pipes. All single-walled and showing varying amounts of gold/blue discolouration.

[malik]

I'm used to seeing blue/golden header pipes 4" to maybe 6" from the head. But all the way down to horizontal. I've not seen that and would highly question the fuel map on this bike. It appears, from those head pipes, it's running WAY TOO lean and WAY TOO hot.
I've simply not seen oem header pipes that distorted.

IMHO, find pictures of 10 other 2012 V7's to confirm that level of head pipe discoloration is 'normal'. Otherwise, keep looking and walk away from this particular Guzzi

The uneven bluing is a concern, but a tappet job & throttle body balance should fix that. Should you feel a need for a new map, Beetle has one & because the 15RC ECU needed such minimal improvement he was making it available free of charge, I don't know if that has changed.

I like to use the computer & Guzzudiag during the throttle body balance because the digital rpm field seems to be more accurate than the tachometer, & you also can easily keep an eye on the engine temperature as well as easily reset the TPS.

Should you buy the bike, you should definitely remove the fuel pump & change the filter as well as the hoses. I found over here it was cheaper (significantly) to buy the fuel submersible hose by the meter (or whatever is normal over in your part of the world) rather than by the 12in piece. If you don't use oetiker clamps, you'll need stainless hose clamps for fuel hose - these have rounded edges to avoid cutting the hose.

You'll also need to check the manifold hoses for leaks - awkward to get at & unlikely to be split - they are thick, heavy and resistant but will take a lot of violent abuse with aplomb. Heat them slightly to get a tad more flexibility. You can do this after you get it, I don't see how you properly check them before you buy.

One other thing you can check - remove the rubber bung on the RHS of the bell housing (a flat blade screwdriver should do it) & stick a finger in & wiggle it around, it should be dry in there. If wet, there's an oil leak - either from the engine or from the gearbox. Either will require disassembly of the bike to fix which adds a significant cost to prospective ownership & thus a factor in the price you pay. Unlikely, but possible & an easy check. You'll also look as if you know what you are doing.

[sdcr]

The uneven bluing is a concern, but a tappet job & throttle body balance should fix that. Should you feel a need for a new map, Beetle has one & because the 15RC ECU needed such minimal improvement he was making it available free of charge, I don't know if that has changed.

I like to use the computer & Guzzudiag during the throttle body balance because the digital rpm field seems to be more accurate than the tachometer, & you also can easily keep an eye on the engine temperature as well as easily reset the TPS.

Should you buy the bike, you should definitely remove the fuel pump & change the filter as well as the hoses. I found over here it was cheaper (significantly) to buy the fuel submersible hose by the meter (or whatever is normal over in your part of the world) rather than by the 12in piece. If you don't use oetiker clamps, you'll need stainless hose clamps for fuel hose - these have rounded edges to avoid cutting the hose.

You'll also need to check the manifold hoses for leaks - awkward to get at & unlikely to be split - they are thick, heavy and resistant but will take a lot of violent abuse with aplomb. Heat them slightly to get a tad more flexibility. You can do this after you get it, I don't see how you properly check them before you buy.

One other thing you can check - remove the rubber bung on the RHS of the bell housing (a flat blade screwdriver should do it) & stick a finger in & wiggle it around, it should be dry in there. If wet, there's an oil leak - either from the engine or from the gearbox. Either will require disassembly of the bike to fix which adds a significant cost to prospective ownership & thus a factor in the price you pay. Unlikely, but possible & an easy check. You'll also look as if you know what you are doing.

👍

[Cam3512]

Then there are some that are just professional tire kickers…

[Tom]

I must have missed it.  What is the owner's asking price?  Is it based in reality? 

[sdcr]

I must have missed it.  What is the owner's asking price?  Is it based in reality?

$3500.

[Vagrant]

Pipe dream!

[Dirk_S]

If it were a V7 Racer in reeally good condition, I’d at least consider $3500.

[DoubleGuzzi]

USA price expectations are quite a bit different to UK and possibly Europe, by the looks of things. It's either that or you're a mean bunch. 



[Note: the Racer is a private sale and a dealer wants another grand for one with 7k miles.]

[Vagrant]

Double that price and I bet Cadre has a brand new one with your name on it.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Double that price and I bet Cadre has a brand new one with your name on it.

Not by the time all your 'murican 'hidden' extras are added! 

[TN Mark]

No ‘hidden extras’ with the professionals at places like Cadre Cycle. OTD (Out The Door) pricing is what professional shops use.

[sdcr]

Then there are some that are just professional tire kickers…

If looking at a neglected Norge that was discussed at length, in another thread, https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=125431.0, and then asking about the Pros and Cons of a V7 small block, constitutes a “professional tire kicker”,  then I guess I am guilty.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Having done a couple of 300 miles round trips, to view and not end up buying: eagerly awaiting the outcome.
 

[Perazzimx14]

Not by the time all your 'murican 'hidden' extras are added! 

Telling the dealership you'll only entertain the OTD number takes care of this.   

[sdcr]

Having done a couple of 300 miles round trips, to view and not end up buying: eagerly awaiting the outcome.
 

Double,

After hearing, and heeding the commentary about the good, the bad, and whatever regarding this black 2012 V7, I decided to pass. So, I won’t be taking a look.

[DoubleGuzzi]

.. I decided to pass. So, I won’t be taking a look.

Boo. I was looking forward to your "adventures" with it.
I placed a small deposit before traveling the ~100miles, to view/purchase my current Breva. 


[Side note: does OTD include license plate and other sundries? We use the term OTR - On The Road, which includes registration (plate) and often 6/12months vehicle tax, plus some fuel. Delivery is usually extra, though does vary. Various levels of breakdown cover and limited warranty is often included. Unscrupulous dealers charge an admin fee though that is normally/always stated up front. Just curious; no answer required.]

[sdcr]

Boo. I was looking forward to your "adventures" with it.
I placed a small deposit before traveling the ~100miles, to view/purchase my current Breva. 


[Side note: does OTD include license plate and other sundries? We use the term OTR - On The Road, which includes registration (plate) and often 6/12months vehicle tax, plus some fuel. Delivery is usually extra, though does vary. Various levels of breakdown cover and limited warranty is often included. Unscrupulous dealers charge an admin fee though that is normally/always stated up front. Just curious; no answer required.]

Full disclosure, the black V7 was only about 20 miles away. I see that his CL ad is no longer active, so assuming ho sold it.
I will keep my eyes open for another bkie, as the two BMW’s I have, are 44 and 27 years old.

[SIR REAL ED]

I shyte you not, but $2k.

I don't think I'd go $3k.

And I vehemently disagree, I would rather pay double for a MkI single throttle body than half for a 2TB.

BUT that's why there are different flavors I guess.

Kev m,

Why do you prefer the single throttle body bikes?  Less headaches?  Are they better sorted out?

Enquiring minds want to know!

[TN Mark]

Full disclosure, the black V7 was only about 20 miles away. I see that his CL ad is no longer active, so assuming ho sold it.
I will keep my eyes open for another bkie, as the two BMW’s I have, are 44 and 27 years old.

Here you go;
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=125444.0

[DoubleGuzzi]

Here you go;
..

More bucks, more performance, more size, more weight. 

[Kev m]

Here you go;
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=125444.0

I think I listed a bunch of the reasons earlier in this that but I'm happy to go over it again. But yes it basically boils down to fewer hassles. Though I'm obviously not afraid of wrenching, I'm very much a practical turn the key and go kinda guy and want to minimize that in my life since it was pretty much my career and all I thought about 5-6 days a week 8-10 hours a day, for over 30 years.

The 1tb smallblock immediately addressed a number of little niggling things I didn't love about the Guzzi smallblock. The simplified linkage and throttle body completely removed any need for periodic checks and adjustments. The air cleaner is under the seat and not tucked under the tank. Other than that one final run of the V7C most of the 2tb models had smaller plastic fuel tanks, the 1tb all came with 5.5g metal tanks.

And when the 1tb debuted they listed a ton of changes to the motor and chassis from revised pistons to lighter wheels. So there are a ton of advantages.

It was enough for me to finally make the move and I'm will happy with the bike almost 14 years later now.

[sdcr]

Kev,
 Thanks for the insights regarding the differences between, 1tb versions, and 2tb V7 small blocks. It was this type of info, that I was looking for, as I haven’t kept up with these “modern”Guzzi’s.