Posi-Lock Connectors

[sign216]

Are Posi-Lock connectors really the best?  The internet reviews are outstanding, so I bought a selection.  In truth they don't seem any better than the old reliable solder and crimp connectors.

This is for the electrical work on a '65 Gilera I'm doing.

http://www.posi-products.com/

[RinkRat II]

 They are great and reliable for quick repairs but I still prefer a good mechanical,then soldered and shrink-tubed connection for longevity.


     Paul :BEER:

[pehayes]

Might wish to correct the embedded hyperlink.  It generates a "mail to" instead of a web search function.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[rodekyll]

I can't make the link work or I'd take a look.  I'm with RR though -- it would take something really special to make me move away from his technique.

[sign216]

How's this link?   http://www.posi-products.com/

But link aside, no one uses these?  On the internet they are the rage.

[Arizona Wayne]

I plan on getting some because they can be used again if you so wish and they will make a good electrical connection.   Found out about them @ webBikeworld.com where they sell you 10 for $10 delivered and show you what they look like when used.   :)  Soldering them is a PIA at least for me.

[Wayne Orwig]

I carry a number of them for repairs.
I might be OK with using them permanently for low current connections.
But.
They are not water tight, and the wire is pressed in place by plastic. As in, if the wire gets warm, the plastic will deform. The resistance will increase. The plastic will deform. Etc. And there is no strain relief on the insulation, just the plastic ring screwed against the wire.
I would generally prefer a metal surround crimp.

[dilligaf]

When I updated the charging system of the SP they were provided with the kit.  They do work but I wasn't all that impressed and found them difficult to install.  :BEER:
Matt

[rodekyll]

The bulk per wire is tremendous.  Glorified skotch-locs.  And a buck a piece?  Why not use household wire nuts?  Wire nuts on a bike look just as professional and have a metal liner.

An admittedly cynical $0.02

[oldbike54]

The bulk per wire is tremendous.  Glorified skotch-locs.  And a buck a piece?  Why not use household wire nuts?  Wire nuts on a bike look just as professional and have a metal liner.

An admittedly cynical $0.02

You laugh , but I've seen more than one MC wired with nuts .

 Dusty


Sent from a submarine in Oklahoma .

[Arizona Wayne]

The bulk per wire is tremendous.  Glorified skotch-locs.  And a buck a piece?  Why not use household wire nuts?  Wire nuts on a bike look just as professional and have a metal liner.

An admittedly cynical $0.02

If you go to webbikeworld you will see the actual connection of these posi-lock are plastic/metal connections,  but much better looking and solid than wire nuts, + they have 1 for holding fuses too.  Before you pooh pooh these find out what they really are.   ;) 

[Triple Jim]

After making zillions of wire connections over 50 or so years, I've settled on solder and heat shrink tubing.  If the connection will be exposed to moisture, like motorcycle wiring is, I use shrink tubing with sealer in it, like Raychem makes.  Every boat trailer I've bought, which is quite a few, has had some sort of crimp connectors in the harness, and I have always had to remove them and do it right, to get reliable lights.

[groundhog105]

I have used these connectors and found them not to be a good long term connection. The connection failed after about six months and left me stranded twice. I removed them and went back to a solder connection.  The should work great for a temporary connection.

[56Pan]

http://www.skygeek.com/military-standard-m81824-1-2-terminal-splice-crimp-butt-cu-20-16-wire-blue-insulator.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=military-standard-m81824-1-2-terminal-splice-crimp-butt-cu-20-16-wire-blue-insulator&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=CPzp_Lv9v8MCFZMkgQodKW8AHA

These aviation environmental splices are expensive, but completely watertight.  If you use the right crimp tool, the connection is every bit as good as solder.  Or you could solder anyhow and then slide the plastic sleeve over.  The thickness at each end of the sleeve gets heated by a heat gun, (or cig. lighter), and melts/seals each end of the crimp barrel.  Used probably several thousand over the years and they're very good. If you need to bus together more than two wires, just go up to the next size with a bigger barrel.

[dilligaf]

The bulk per wire is tremendous.  Glorified skotch-locs.  And a buck a piece?  Why not use household wire nuts?  Wire nuts on a bike look just as professional and have a metal liner.

An admittedly cynical $0.02

You laugh , but I've seen more than one MC wired with nuts .

 Dusty


Sent from a submarine in Oklahoma .

http://www.skygeek.com/military-standard-m81824-1-2-terminal-splice-crimp-butt-cu-20-16-wire-blue-insulator.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=military-standard-m81824-1-2-terminal-splice-crimp-butt-cu-20-16-wire-blue-insulator&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=CPzp_Lv9v8MCFZMkgQodKW8AHA

These aviation environmental splices are expensive, but completely watertight.  If you use the right crimp tool, the connection is every bit as good as solder.  Or you could solder anyhow and then slide the plastic sleeve over.  The thickness at each end of the sleeve gets heated by a heat gun, (or cig. lighter), and melts/seals each end of the crimp barrel.  Used probably several thousand over the years and they're very good. If you need to bus together more than two wires, just go up to the next size with a bigger barrel.

These quotes sum Posi-Lock connectors quite well.  When I first saw them in my alternator kit my first reaction was WOW, these are neat.  Then I attempted to use them.  I was able to make them work but what a PIA compared to a crimp connection.  They may be acceptable for a quick fix and can be reused but for a quick fix a crimp connector crimped with pliers should do.  Back at the shop you can do the job properly.   ;D

I associate aviation with reliability and with the level of reliability required by the aviation industry comes $$$$.  I used heat shrink with an adhesive inside that may be purchased at your local hardware store or electrical supply that will work quit well on our motorcycles .     :BEER:
Matt

[Perazzimx14]

You laugh , but I've seen more than one MC wired with nuts .

 Dusty


Sent from a submarine in Oklahoma .

My current T3 project had about 15 of them on the left handlebar switch ;-T

[sign216]

I have used these connectors and found them not to be a good long term connection. The connection failed after about six months and left me stranded twice. I removed them and went back to a solder connection.  The should work great for a temporary connection.

Thanks Groundhog.

I'm testing an ignition coil and condenser in a '65 Gilera, which are normally soldered on in a cramped location.  Performance is degrading when the bike gets hot, and I'd to change to posi-lock so I can disconnect the coil easily, and test it.

Seem like the best course is to rely on solder.  And "test" the coil by simply replacing it with a new unit.

Joe

[sib]

The T-type Posi-Lock connectors are very handy when you want to tap into an existing wire without breaking the wire or exposing the conductor.  They were supplied with the Flash2Pass garage door opener transmitter that I installed ion my V7 Stone more than a year ago.  The connections seem to be reliable.  If I ever want to remove the Flash2Pass unit, I can simply unscrew the T connectors and the former splice site will be pretty much invisible.

[jackson]

I've used them for a variety of projects over the last 8-9 years and never had a problem with any of them.  I need to order some more of the smaller red ones as I'm almost out.  No complaints from me.

[charlie b]

I have also used them a lot for semi-permanent work.  During my recent wiring harness work I removed 6 of them that have been in use for more than a couple of years without problem.  They were not used in high current circuits, 4A or less.

For permanent work I use crimped and/or soldered connections.  Molex stuff is crimped and soldered.  Blade and bullet connectors are just crimped unless it is a high current load, then it is crimped and soldered.  FYI, the factory harness uses only crimped connectors.  Use a GOOD crimping tool, not one of those electrician multi-tools.

[Greg Field]

How's this link?   http://www.posi-products.com/

But link aside, no one uses these?  On the internet they are the rage.

I have used dozens of them. I use them only for temporary fixes but they are very quick to use for such fixes and have gotten me and my riding group home many times, from as far away as Hyder, Alaska.

[geodoc]

I have used these connectors and found them not to be a good long term connection. The connection failed after about six months and left me stranded twice. I removed them and went back to a solder connection.  The should work great for a temporary connection.

A caution on soldered connections. When soldering a terminal on to a wire, it is a fiddly, difficult operation to not get solder wicked up the conductor past where the terminal crimps. When this happens and the connection is subjected to vibration, over time the soldered joint will fracture. This is the reason why for aerospace applications (and anything subject to vibration), terminals or connector pins are crimped only.

Here's a great place to find all manner of crimp terminals and connectors with various crimping, installation & extraction tools.

http://cycleterminal.com/
.
.
.
.
.

[pyoungbl]

Posi-lock is OK for a temporary connection but I'd never want to count on one for a long term fix.  http://www.delcity.net/ offers some great options for crimp connectors with built in shrink tube.  They have professional grade crimping tools, not cheap but you get what you pay for.  You can also find weather proof connections on their web site.  Once again, not cheap but worth the price...IMHO.

Peter Y.

[hammick]

I just started using the Posi-taps in the past few months and like them a lot.  When I sell I bike I usually remove all my electrical farkles and the posi-taps don't cut into the wiring like a scotch lock does.

[creaky99]

     Why not use household wire nuts?  Wire nuts on a bike look just as professional and have a metal liner.

This. I use wire nuts frequently for temporary repairs and lots of times it becomes a permanent repair. Twist it on, fill the hollow with RTV, presto, watertight connection.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Soldering is best as Triple Jim suggests but as Geodoc points out the wire will snap at a solder joint if it gets any flexing.
If you look at a schematic where you see a black dot
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif
chances are there's a factory soldered splice covered with heat shrink.

I use a lot of insulated crimp links and lugs but dip the wires in Vaseline or grease before crimping to prevent corrosion.

[Triple Jim]

This. I use wire nuts frequently for temporary repairs and lots of times it becomes a permanent repair. Twist it on, fill the hollow with RTV, presto, watertight connection.

I'll share a tip here, despite no one asking, and the fact that it's probably been posted before.   :D    Use an electrical grade RTV for this, and any other application that requires sealing electrical connections.  The usual type has acid in it, and it corrodes wiring and connections.  Maybe not severely, but it oxidizes the surface and makes electrical connections iffy, and future soldering difficult.  Dow Corning 738 is one electrical grade RTV that I've had very good service from for a couple decades.

[Chuck in Indiana]

The FAA is fussy about electrical connections, with good reason.
FAA 4313, the mechanics bible, sez
i. Terminations should be made using
terminals of the proper size and the appropriate
terminal crimping tools.
That means no solder to me..
Further on, highlight mine..
11-103. JUNCTIONS. Ensure that only aircraft
manufacturer approved devices, such as
solderless type terminals, terminal blocks,
connectors, disconnect splices, permanent
splices, and feed-through bushings are used for
cable junctions. Inspect for the provisions
outlined below:
snipped,

So. As an EAA tech counselor, I've always told people no soldered connections. They *do* tend to break from vibration from the solder wicking into the wire. YMMV of course, but I don't solder any connection on aircraft or automotive applications.

[Kentktk]

A couple videos showing how they work.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motorcycle-products/posi-lock/

http://www.webbikeworld.com/sale/posi-locks-for-sale.htm#posi-lock-video

[nikwax]

i've used solder, crimp on, and Posi-Locks. Mostly I like crimp on, I've not had any issues with it (and my BMW had plenty of factory crimp on wiring, so it's not as low class as some would think). One thing to point out about Posi-Taps is that you end up with wires connecting at 90 degrees rather than in line. Thinking about the space limitation of a motorcycle, that's a bit impractical.


Other benefits to crimp on: you can buy a tool and a butt load of connectors for about $15. The Posi-Locks are expensive and I tend to not have the one I need on hand. Also, crimp on isolates dissimilar metals, if you happen to run into that situation.


It may be worthwhile to have a handful of Posi-Locks on board for emergency repairs.