Crimp or solder electrical connections

[Triple Jim]

When in doubt, look at what the oem did and how they did it in similar contexts.

Well, I'm sure you'll agree that the way the manufacturer did it is not always the absolute best possible way, but usually a good compromise of reliability and inexpensive assembly.

[rodekyll]

If their method failed in a context and the method was the reason, then do something different.  :)

Solder for connectivity -- mixed feelings on this.  'lecricity is a surface-dwelling troll.  It only flows along the outside of the wire strands.  A multi-strand cable has more surface area than a single strand cable of the same gauge.  So if you solder multistrand, you're reducing the current path at that point.  In a lot of cases this doesn't matter.  But if the gauge is marginal for the load this can be a point of heat and fatigue (lending to a broken solder joint) or if some sensitive instrument is at the other end measuring current or resistence, you can get funky meter readings.

[Dimples]

On a motorcycle crimp the connections. But you need quality tools!

[canuguzzi]

If you are using the proper gauge wire, there is no need to try and increase conductivity. There are published standards for ampacity for correlate the length of the wire run to the current the wire is expected to conduct. Even if soldering increased the conductivity in some manner, that increase isn't going to make any difference in what load you can draw from the source.

If the solder is going to make a difference, your wire is too small in the first place.

Look at your car's wiring. How much of it is soldered unless it runs to a circuit board?

[wymple]

I did not mean that it increases conductivity. I solder not to lose it when things decide to start deteriorating. I have no problem with good crimping, I just have it in my head that soldering is another measure of help on a connection. I have a laundry basket full of old wiring pulled off mainly motorcycles. There are a lot of crimped only connections, and more than a few soldered as well, factory stuff.

[Wayne Orwig]

  'lecricity is a surface-dwelling troll.  It only flows along the outside of the wire strands. 

Not an real issue for DC. And insignificant for lower frequencies.

'Skin effect' is a high frequency thing.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I've been watching this thread for days, I can't make up my mind.
I use both methods depending on how I feel.
Soldering is not as convenient, running leads, having to insulate later.
I soldered the battery leads because I don't have a crimper large enough.
Soldering takes up less space.
Crimping is quick, I usually dip the wires in petroleum jelly before I crimp, especially in a wet area.

A soldered joint becomes brittle and snaps with any flexing whereas a crimp connection flexes over a longer distance and will withstand flexing 2-3 times as long.

As an apprentice we used to solder all large lugs, welding leads etc. there were no such things as crimp lugs and for the longest time the inspectors made us solder as well.

[SED]

You guys are amazing with your knowledge and experience.  All your info has definitely clarified my understanding.  The results I got with the crimp and shrink tube combo are great an look secure.  With that and your info I'm slowly loosing my prejudice against crimps.

Thanks!

[Arizona Wayne]

You guys are amazing with your knowledge and experience.  All your info has definitely clarified my understanding.  The results I got with the crimp and shrink tube combo are great an look secure.  With that and your info I'm slowly loosing my prejudice against crimps.

Thanks!

There are good & not so good crimps, just like most other things in life.  But I don't see where you have to pay $100 for good crimps here. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

This is one lots of journeyman electricians use, just a very simple pair if pliers, they will last a lifetime.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M

[rodekyll]

This is the style I carry on the bike and what I've used for most of the 200 or so crimps in the half-dozen terminal styles on the trike.  It's a $15-ish dollar item.  Used correctly it will duplicate oem crimps.  It has a pliar nose.  The cutter is in the upper section closest to the pivot.  In the hub is a rivet/screw cutter/gauge index.  It strips from 10ga to 22 ga, and does the double-crimp (contact and strain relief) on insulated and non-insulated terminals.  It also does spark plug wire ends.

http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-electrical-wire-stripper-and-crimper/p-00994108000P?sid=IDx20140425xECNMPTL25

[lrutt]

to splice wires I usually solder, but always crimp end connections.  Forgot to mention that. I suppose I could find a good crimp splicer but I like to solder and heatshrink for the thinnest possible cross section.

Would like to have some of those solder splices we used to use on Mil spec work, was filled with solder and glue so when you hit it with a heat gun it soldered and sealed and heat shrunk all at once. A hell of a nice connection.

I should search those out.

[Dimples]

A $60. ratchet crimper available from McMaster-Carr would be a useful investment and make reliable crimps. You can also order a variety of terminals (uninsulated) and shrink tubing there. The results will look original.

This is just one example from their website:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#69555k63/=xy4yxh

[Chuck in Indiana]

to splice wires I usually solder, but always crimp end connections.  Forgot to mention that. I suppose I could find a good crimp splicer but I like to solder and heatshrink for the thinnest possible cross section.

Would like to have some of those solder splices we used to use on Mil spec work, was filled with solder and glue so when you hit it with a heat gun it soldered and sealed and heat shrunk all at once. A hell of a nice connection.

I should search those out.

Try Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.

[father guzzi obrian]

I did not read the two pages of inputs, but as an Aerospace gent who is IPC 610 trained as well as the J Standard, I can assure you that very few solders can create stress risers as mentioned in the op. Only specialty solders designed for specific, usually high temp environments are even close to hard enough to stress fracture.  Solder is your friend, it is encompasses each strand linking them, crimping smashes the strands together and initially does the same thing, but solder by its nature provides more likelihood that corrosion will not creep in like it can in a crimp joint. I use crimps, and I use solder, they use em both on the most complex aircraft flying, they just use the appropriate solution for the situation

[Dimples]

to splice wires I usually solder, but always crimp end connections.  Forgot to mention that. I suppose I could find a good crimp splicer but I like to solder and heatshrink for the thinnest possible cross section.

Would like to have some of those solder splices we used to use on Mil spec work, was filled with solder and glue so when you hit it with a heat gun it soldered and sealed and heat shrunk all at once. A hell of a nice connection.

I should search those out.

Like these?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9895k13/=xy59z7

[Tobit]

I was always told to make the connection mechanically secure first, like twisting wires together, then solder it.

Correct.  Solder is not to be used as a mechanical connection other than component leads on circuit boards.  Wire to wire, use a Western Union splice then solder and cover with heat shrink.

With crimp on connectors, after crimping, solder the front if open and the wire is exposed as on a spade or terminal strip connector, then seal the back with RTV then heat shrink.

Never had a rain related problem and I used to enjoy riding in the rain tremendously. 

Tobit

[Triple Jim]

...then seal the back with RTV then heat shrink.

Specifically electrical grade RTV like Dow Corning 738, which does not have acid in it that corrodes conductors and contacts.

[Rough Edge racing]

 A proper crimp also requires good quality terminals.Many of the split barrel designs fail to hold the wire securely after the crimp..And the endless discussion among electricians is which way does the tool face on the crimp terminal......

[Wayne Orwig]

then seal the back with RTV then heat shrink.

I've gotten where I use a bit of hot melt glue in my heat shrink tubing. It makes for a very solid and waterproof connection. And you don't need to worry about the RTV corroding the wiring. It may make it too stiff in some cases though if you need it to flex some.

[amamet]

http://vintageconnections.com
got a kit from them.  top notch, period
allen

[jas67]

If their method failed in a context and the method was the reason, then do something different.  :)

Solder for connectivity -- mixed feelings on this.  'lecricity is a surface-dwelling troll.  It only flows along the outside of the wire strands.  A multi-strand cable has more surface area than a single strand cable of the same gauge.  So if you solder multistrand, you're reducing the current path at that point.  In a lot of cases this doesn't matter.  But if the gauge is marginal for the load this can be a point of heat and fatigue (lending to a broken solder joint) or if some sensitive instrument is at the other end measuring current or resistence, you can get funky meter readings.

FALSE.     That is only true for high frequencies (think RF).    DC, and low frequency AC ( ignition coil primary is pulsed DC, which is DC with an AC component) flow through the entire cross section of the conductor.

Just to put my post in context, I am an electrical engineer with 25 years of experience.

[Wayne Orwig]

That is only true for high frequencies (think RF).   

Already covered it.
There is a reason it is fine to use solid core at 60Hz.

Only 25 years.... You need 15 more to catch up..

[Groover]

Good thread. I never thought of the vibration factor when it comes to solder over crimping. Musical instruments (amps, volume knobs, etc.) are all soldered. I think it's to reduce crackling, buzzing and other static type noises. Anything automotive seems to be crimped, and now I know why.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Already covered it.
There is a reason it is fine to use solid core at 60Hz.

Only 25 years.... You need 15 more to catch up..

Just a mere beginner

[Testarossa]

his is one lots of journeyman electricians use, just a very simple pair if pliers, they will last a lifetime.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M

I've been using this tool for a few years and am quite happy with the results.

[Rough Edge racing]

I've been using this tool for a few years and am quite happy with the results.

 After reading all of this it's my opinion as retired licensed master electrician and contractor that some of you are getting carried away with details. It's like a convention of gov't workers "how can we design complication into a simple job?"I used the tool above to stake on thousands of termination is all sorts of conditions,some quite nasty and nothing failed. I've made up many wire harness for vibration prone motorcycles and none fell apart....Buy the tool, use De Ox grease , shrink tubing to help support the wire, get good quality terminals and leave a bit of slack in the wire. It's all in your hands....

[HardAspie]

Another issue; if you are actually installing a new run of wire be certain to get automotive grade. The alloys used are more vibration tolerant than household stuff.

[Farmer Dan]

Every connection is a good quality crimp connector with insulator.  Only solder joints are in the handle bar switches and the LED's that I put in the instrument panel.  All is good so far (knock on wood).

[HardAspie]

That looks purty purty purty!