Total cost to replace front and rear tire on V7II Stone?

[DaSwami]

Michelin Pilot Activ front and rear


$500 total installed price at the dealer


How bad is that?

Thanks

[Triple Jim]

Sounds pretty high.  I think I could buy a pair for less than $250 delivered to my house.

[jdgretz]

Michelin Pilot Activ front and rear


$500 total installed price at the dealer


How bad is that?

Thanks

At my local tire guy (CT Motorcycle Tires in Reseda, CA - shameless plug for a good guy), the tires should have been about 110 for the front and 126 or so for the rear.  His charge to change the tires on the bike is $35 each and another $5 each for the balance beads.  California adds $2/tire disposal/recycle fee and then 9% tax, so it would have been $352.41 if my math is right.

jdg

[boatdetective]

I would agree. They aren't big tires. If you get them on sale- maybe $250 delivered. I've got a guy locally who mounts them for $25 each if i bring him the wheels. Of course, iyouyo just want to drop off the bike and have it all done- that's some labor.

[organfixsing]

Sounds high to me too, but as Jim says, $250 is to do it yourself. To get the shop do it on wheels you take in, I think, still too high.
For the shop to do the whole job, $250 maybe closer to the mark as the back wheel removal and particularly replacement is a prick of a job, quite time consuming.
The problem with rear wheel replacment is the cush rubbers in the hub/wheel interface which are difficult to keep in place while replacing the wheel.
Some people have used dobs of grease to try to hold the rubbers in place, others have used RTV paste.

As far as the grease goes, I would think that the grease may attack the rubber after a while.
An idea came to me while thinking about this problem.
Why not use double sided sticky tape, the thin variety intended for sticking sheet of paper/cardboard together.
It could be stuck to the rubber first, then the rubber stuck into the hub.
It would be able to be removed with acetone (if required) at the next rear wheel change.

Cheers
Brian 

[fotoguzzi]

that is normal "Dealer" price, find someone on CL to change them and buy tires on line.. Denniskirk.com been good to me..

[DaSwami]

Thanks folks, $300 for the tires and the rest for labor parts and tax

The backstory is that there was nothing wrong with the Pirelli's, they only have 2100 miles on them, but the bike was in for warranty service and they called to say a nail was through the rear tire.  I am struggling with this because I check the bike over before every ride.

At any rate, they don't carry the Sport Demons but do recommend the Pilot Activs and didn't want to change just the rear

[Triple Jim]

I wouldn't be surprised if that nail doesn't go through to the inside.  In that case, pull it out and don't worry about it.  Of course ignore what I'm saying because it's dangerous and could result in injury or death!

[Bravo Sierra]

Yep this is exactly why I bought a tire changer. I don’t have a problem with a shop charging a reasonable amount to change a tire but when it cost as much for the tires as it does to mount and balance them I have a problem. Changing your own tires is not for everybody but at that price you can pay for a NoMar tire changer and associated stuff in maybe 4 tire changes. Think of all the frustration you can have learning how to do it! Seriously I think you should be able to find some to do it for at least $100 less. 

Also you get to try any tire that will fit 

Bob

[Scud]

I'm calling bullshit. You probably don't need a new front tire. I think you should just get a new rear and move on. In fact, with your new rear, the front (with 2100 miles) and the new rear should wear out at about the same time.

That nail doesn't appear to have many miles on it...  but I would assume that you just happened to pick it up on the way there. I got one sort of like that on my Scura recently. However, it was clearly only through the tread so I pulled it and didn't give it another though. The tire performed normally for the balance of its life. However, your nail is sticking out the sidewall, so even if it doesn't cause an air leak, it still seems worthwhile to replace it.

[redhawk47]

I'm calling bullshit. You probably don't need a new front tire. I think you should just get a new rear and move on. In fact, with your new rear, the front (with 2100 miles) and the new rear should wear out at about the same time.

That nail doesn't appear to have many miles on it...  but I would assume that you just happened to pick it up on the way there. I got one sort of like that on my Scura recently. However, it was clearly only through the tread so I pulled it and didn't give it another though. The tire performed normally for the balance of its life. However, your nail is sticking out the sidewall, so even if it doesn't cause an air leak, it still seems worthwhile to replace it.

Agreed, you don't need a new front.
Agreed, that nail looks fresh. Edit: I zoomed in on your photo and could see where the nail had abraded the edge of the sipe. It has been there a little while.

[Muzz]

My gut feeling would be to pull the nail. If air comes out I guess then look at tire replacement, if it doesn't I would ride it. You still have a lot of tread left there, shame to waste it.

The price you got for the two tires sounds high, in fact higher than out here even. A guy who used to be on the site and who did a lot of long distance miles on his 750 Breva went with the Pilot Activ on the rear where he got far higher mileage than the Demon with only a slight dropoff in grip, but stayed with the Demon on the front. He reckoned he got about the best of both worlds. The front Demon lasts far longer than the rear.

I am hoping to be able to do the same with my next rear tire, but the Pilot Active supply out here appears to be quite erratic.

[DaSwami]

Thanks for all the help and advice.  I'm just gonna go with a new rear and then replace both when the rear wears out.  Also, good eye on the nail. You can see it had been there awhile, wow, must of gotten in there my last ride.

Merry Christmas to all

Scott

[Kev m]

I know you got it sorted, but just to add to the sentiment, I ran my front Sport Demon to about 12k miles with a Michelin Pilot Activ on the back for half of them, no worries.

[Cam3512]

If you're going to have a shop mount and balance the tires, you should buy them there.  It's a tough business, and the support helps.  Alot of internet vendors will sell you old "new" tires at a discount.

With our asses riding at high speeds on two pieces of rubber, I can't understand those that cheap out on ANYTHING tire related.

[Scud]

Progression of motorcycle tire changing:

1 - Take the bike to the shop and wait while they do everything... say ouch when you pay the bill, but feel good knowing that you are helping to support your local shop/economy.
2 - Take the wheels off and take them to the shop and pay for tires, labor, and disposal... feel good about saving a little money - and take the time to clean and inspect everything while the wheels are off.
3 - Buy tires online (ideally avoiding sales tax) and take them to the shop with your wheels... be surprised when you learn that your shop charges more when you bring your own tires. Like a corkage fee when you bring your own wine to a restaurant.
4 - Invest in tire changing and balancing equipment... realize that you can change your own tires in less time than it took to go to the shop and wait... that it's not only about the money you are saving money... and that you can do tires at night when the shop is closed anyway... and that you kind of like having a beer, listening to Hendrix, and changing tires... and that there's a tire store somewhere near you that will accept and recycle your old tires.

And FWIW - I just put tires on my Scura.  I'm going to try the Pirelli Angel GT on the back, and the ST on the front. My theory is that the softer ST up front will give me more grip, but wear faster than the front GT did. And... maybe, just maybe, the tires will wear at about the same rate. I tend to change both tires at the same time, because by the time the rear is done, the front has about 30% life remaining and I just love having 2 new tires - and I'm not gonna try to save $100 every 10,000 miles by keeping to a "3-Rears : 2-Fronts" ratio.

Anyway - I'm glad the community could help you get your bike back for less than the original estimate.

[sib]

Last year I replaced the OEM Pirelli Sport Demons on my V7II Stone with more Sport Demons, the rear one at 8100 mi, the front at 10,100 mi.  The 2 tires cost me $225.92 including shipping, from Bike Bandit (no, they weren't old stock, they had fresh dates).  I took each wheel off and brought it to a local bike shop for removal and disposal of the old tire, installation of the new one, and checking the balance.  They charged be $20 for the 1st (rear) one and 35 for the 2nd (front) one.  No explanation for the different charges except the shop was pretty idle the first time and busy the second time.  Anyway, the total cost came to $280.92.  Pretty good.

Ah, but that doesn't include the added cost of my fu##ing up the installation of the rear wheel, when I got the brake rotor positioned between the back of the inside pad and the caliper instead of between the pads, and then rode the bike that way for about 100 mi.  New caliper ($160.39), rotor ($83.59), banjo bolt crush washers ($6.14), and brake fluid (~$5.00) came to $255.12, the added cost of doing it myself.   I'm not including the cost of the vacuum brake line bleeder I needed to get all of the air out of the new caliper ($42.79), because that's a tool.  I'm not complaining, I learned how to be more careful, and I doubt I'll make that mistake again.

[nbags]

i think 500 is not too bad for complete job,its also good to develop a relationship with the dealer your working with.Did they make money of course but that is what they need to do to keep the doors open.Support your dealers that way they can still provide us with bikes and parts close by.

[Perazzimx14]

You can buy these tires online both for $207 shipped to your door through Motorcycle Superstore. That is why I bought a NoMar tire machine. No more screwin's from the local shops. If you lived close I'd change them for $40 + a case of Yuengling pounders and include tire disposal. $500 is crazy.

[Waltr]

  As a matter of record those tires at our dealership would cost you $404 plus tax and $4 disposal fee. It is actually easier to change tires on a CARC bike than a V7. 

[pyoungbl]

I have a NoMar machine, love it.  I tend to do longer distance trips, between 1K and 6K.  It's always a challenge when I go out to the bike and try to decide if the tire on the rear will last the distance.  I hate to have to buy a tire mid trip.  You take what is available and pay a premium price both for tire and labor.  That's fair since the shop has to drop something else to work on your walk-in business.  I understand.  With my own machine I can take a 50% tire off and put a 100% one on for the trip, then wear both down on shorter trips as necessary.  Without the machine I would never have that flexibility.  With all that said, there are still times when I have to take a tire to a dealer because the sidewall is so stiff I just cannot get the darn thing over the rim.  That happened recently with my RX3 and I was happy to pay the shop $35 to do the job.  If you have the room, look into getting your own tire changing machine.

Peter Y.

[Chuck in Indiana]

There are some tricks to changing tires, but once the learning curve is over you'll wonder why you haven't had a tire machine for years. 

[redrider]

Good Grief! What is their hourly rate? Both should have taken about 45 minutes if the tech is worth his salt.

[Perazzimx14]

  As a matter of record those tires at our dealership would cost you $404 plus tax and $4 disposal fee. It is actually easier to change tires on a CARC bike than a V7.

Does that include mounting and balancing as well or just the tires?

[Scud]

To you guys who got the No-Mar changer: Which model did you get?

I was just looking at the classic, which is on sale right now. It also has a hitch-mount adapter, which I think seems like a good idea - so I could do it on the truck and put it away when not in use.

I have a Harbor Freight machine now, which I upgraded with the Mojo-Blocks. While I can use it use it effectively, it's not the type of tool that makes me appreciate how well-made it is. Thinking to maybe upgrade to No-Mar and sell the HF on Craigslist. 

Any words of wisdom?

[bad Chad]

There is no way I would want to change m/c tires even if I had a machine.  I have watched it done several times, and its still a good deal out of my pay grade.

I don't think the OP was done wrong, as long as the shop did a professional job.   I don't know what labor charges are common in FL, but around Chicago, really good shops, and I mean the  very few that I would trust my life with, approach $100 an hour.

[Chuck in Indiana]

To you guys who got the No-Mar changer: Which model did you get?

I was just looking at the classic, which is on sale right now. It also has a hitch-mount adapter, which I think seems like a good idea - so I could do it on the truck and put it away when not in use.

I have a Harbor Freight machine now, which I upgraded with the Mojo-Blocks. While I can use it use it effectively, it's not the type of tool that makes me appreciate how well-made it is. Thinking to maybe upgrade to No-Mar and sell the HF on Craigslist. 

Any words of wisdom?

I'll have mine bolted to the floor, please. The hitch mount sounds good, but it is pretty wobbly (technical term) and you lose the option of walking around the whole periphery.
I've seen one like that in use, and I'll take you on with my HF, homemade Mojo blocks and Mojo lever. Naturally, I looked at a picture of the Mojo lever and made my own because I can..but.. I highly recommend it.

[Perazzimx14]

To you guys who got the No-Mar changer: Which model did you get?

I was just looking at the classic, which is on sale right now. It also has a hitch-mount adapter, which I think seems like a good idea - so I could do it on the truck and put it away when not in use.

I have a Harbor Freight machine now, which I upgraded with the Mojo-Blocks. While I can use it use it effectively, it's not the type of tool that makes me appreciate how well-made it is. Thinking to maybe upgrade to No-Mar and sell the HF on Craigslist. 

Any words of wisdom?

I have the classic and the only accessory I have is the yellow thingy. I have changed tubed, tubeless, cast and spoke wheels with no issue. I was going to buy the bobbin blocks for spoke wheels but found I do not need them. I have changed easily over 200 tires on mine and works just as well as the day I bough it. Mine is bolted to the floor in the basement so its warm in the winter and cool in the summer. If you have a dedicated space bolt it to the floor put a small table/shelf beside it to hold tire lube, rags, and other assorted stuff you'll collect to assist in changing tires. For tire disposal I take them to a local Mr. Tire, Sears Automotive or a local garage. Pay them $2 per tire to cover the disposal fee a away you go.   

[Guzzidad]

     I just replaced the tires on the Norge I bought from Waltr. I paid $360 to a local bike shop for Michelin PR4's. Spooned them off and on with 8" tire spoons I bought a long time ago from Riders Warehouse. Easy-peezy. Less than two hours for both front and rear. And I'm slow. I'm 64 yrs old, retired, and don't care how long it takes.

[Scud]

Thanks for the tire-changer advice (and apologies for the thread-drift).  I also got the Mojo Lever and I've been doing pretty well with it. I only have it mounted to a pallet though - and that makes it wobbly. My home has a post-tension slab and there is no drilling allowed. It makes a great rack when not in use...