My V50 Monza Rebuild

[Psychopasta]

Hey guys,

Sorry for not updating more, but we have been redecorating the house and the  had other plans for m'time.

Anyways, I have hit a snag inserting the exhaust mounting studs. These are nice stainless steel bits

like so:

A little threadlock, insert the blue end, screw in, then add a nut on top and tighten to get the whole way in. And who doesn't like getting the whole way in?

Three of four worked perfectly, but the fourth will only go halfway in. The problem is not the screw, it's the internal thread in the cylinder head.





So, I have removed it and am now thinking how to clean up the internal thread. I can use a tap to clean it up, but I wonder if anyone has experience of this and any suggestions before I get medieval in the cylinder head.

Also, when assembling the cross-pipe onto the exhaust headers, how far is far enough?





When getting the cross-pipe onto the exhaust, should I keep hammering away until the gaps in the crosspipe are completely covered by the stub on the exhaust, so should I be leaving a gap that then gets covered up by the exhaust clamp and optional goo?

All help gratefully received!

- Pasta

[Chuck in Indiana]

A properly sized tap drill and tap will clean it out. Not to worry..
I'd loosely assemble the entire exhaust system, and see where the crossover *needs* to be.

[Psychopasta]

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for that. I don't think the exhaust is going to fit 'loosely' at all. That was my original idea, but the fit is going to be a tight one. hammering the crosspiece on without damaging the exhaust is one concern, but overdoing it and then needing to pull it back out is even harder.

- Pasta

[Chuck in Indiana]

Well, yeah.. loosely means no fasteners tightened.  The toughest job I had on the Aero engine conversion was mating up the Lario exhaust to the aero engine.

[Psychopasta]

Well, the cylinder head stud problem is solved...or at least identified. Some time in the past the stud has broken and left ~10 mm in the threaded hole. If the engine were apart it would be easy enough to have it drilled out, but for now I'll just persevere with a shorter piece of studding.

The crossover pipe actually goes all the way so that the cutouts are covered, and then stops. A little Copaslip on the crossover and stub means it goes in with only a bit of light tapping, rather than mighty thwacks.

Thanks for the help and encouragement!

- Pasta

[SED]

Well, the cylinder head stud problem is solved...or at least identified. Some time in the past the stud has broken and left ~10 mm in the threaded hole. If the engine were apart it would be easy enough to have it drilled out, but for now I'll just persevere with a shorter piece of studding.

Pasta, you might find a left hand drill bit smaller than the hole and try drilling out the broken stud by hand.  Clean the threads, give it a good soak with penetrating oil, center punch (might have to find a skinny punch or grind one down.) and then drill with left hand bit. I've had a couple broken bolts back out just from the drilling.

Good Luck!

[Psychopasta]

Thanks! That's a good idea.

- P

[Psychopasta]

So, I finally got some time to get back into the V50 Monza project. Where does the time go?

Not much to report this time, as I was mainly familiarizing myself with the state of play after about a six-month layoff . Here's how things stand:



Ignition coils are on the BMW supports, mounted by p-clips to the frame:


Stainless brake line goes from LHS caliper to the linked braking pipe:


which is covered in spiral wrap and just cable-tied for now to the frame





From top clockwise: rear master reservoir looks at an odd angle in this pic, horn, 30 A fuse, M-unit and reg/rect all mounted on the rear splashguard:


Jump to other side, stainless hose from rear brake goes to master cylinder with Y-split coupler for the front-linked-brake, brake switch:


Looks tidier from this angle. Turns out wife's hairdryer is not hot enough to shrink the heat-shrink tubing, {sigh}


Front brake line goes through temporary cable stay en route to the front M/C:


Ignition wiring, main wiring loom and linked brake coupler:


Tank fitted to make sure nothing fouls:


and then just a few shots around the bike:




Headlight is on V7 clamps, and is not in final position yet:




A few more all-bike shots:

[twowings]

I'm liking where this is going...thanks for the new pics!

[Steph]

Nice work, Monza are great! (I had two eh eh)

I’m not a big fan of K&N.
I believe  that as they arrive shipped some are already pre-oiled and ready to use. Their colors are still greyish.
From my experience, if they are ‘red-red’ in color, there is too much oil on them. The dripping is also a concern.

[SED]

Beautiful work Pasta - cool!

I�m not a big fan of K&N.

Agree - K&Ns flexed the rubber manifolds too much on my LMIII. Runs better with the stock airbox.  The stock airbox on the v50 was fine - if just a little oily.  The V65 airbox has been great. 

[Psychopasta]

So today was focused on a new rear light cluster I bought from Dime City Cycles, which is in the Lucas mold and was the kind of thing I was looking for. First thing was to start with the existing rear fender, which already had a few holes drilled to support the OEM light cluster and an alternative rear light usit I was looking at but decided against:






I needed to drill two more holes at the bottom, and use a Dremel to enlarge on of the pre-existing holes into a slot. This let me mount the unpainted rear light cluster:








This looks good I think, except that the rest of the fender carries on and looks fugly. I would need to chop the fender off just above the number plate for this to work, I think. As an alternative, I mounted the original license plate holder, which I had painted orange earlier:

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Not sure which I prefer. Thoughts?

I also added m-Unit Blaze pins, which are about the same size as an M8 socket head and are damn bright in use. You can see them in the earlier pictures, but may not have noticed them. Here they are going onto the headlight:







They are almost invisible when not powered on. I like them!

- Pasta

[SED]

Looks great Pasta.  I cut my rear fender and raised the license plate a little. 

[Psychopasta]

Thanks SED. I think I'm going to cut the fender and have the plate hang from the new rear light unit. Your pics are really helpful. It's not on the critical path: I want to get the engine started first!

[FredZeppelin]

Apologies for getting to the party so late, but I also struck the K&N filter interference problem on a Monza motor.   
My solution was to build up the inlet manifolds with weld then machine them 10mm shorter so the carbs sat closer to the head and further from each other.
This took FOREVER, because the manifolds were a bastard to weld due to contamination in the castings.
Fabricating or casting new manifolds is probably a better option if you're determined to use K&N's or similar filters.
Fred

[Psychopasta]

Thanks Fred! 

[Tobit]

Psychopasta,

Any "Before" pics?  I sold my tatty, ratty, basketcase Monza in 2010 while living in Virginia.  Just curious if this might be it.

Nice job!

Tobit

[Psychopasta]

Hey Tobit, check out the earliest posts on http://v50monzarebuild.blogspot.com/ - P