Difficulty shifting up from first at stand still

[Flea]

Typically this happens during very hot days, but lately it's been happening more often.

This morning on my ride in, I had a very hard time shifting from first to neutral at a standstill. However, while the bike is on the move, it shifts effortlessly.

By the time I got to work (1hr), the bike completely refused to shift from first even while I am pushing up on the shifter with a ton of force.

Fresh oil was put in about 1000 miles ago. And it only happens when the bike is running hot. Besides a complete tear down, what should I be looking for?

Thanks

[Groover]

Adjust clutch cable?

[guzzisteve]

What model? Try letting clutch out to rotate trans a bit, while preload shifter, should pop in.
Could be cable adj--

[Flea]

2013 v7

Will look at cable adjustment. I've tried rolling the bike a few feet to see if it'll shift, but no dice.

When I shut off the bike, it pops into neutral and 2nd effortlessly.

[sign216]

Adjust clutch cable?

My first answer too.  The factory calls for only 1mm of slack in the cable.

[Chuck in Indiana]

What people are saying is that the clutch is dragging from not being *completely* disengaged. If there is not enough adjustment at the clutch lever, there is another on the transmission itself. It is important, however, to make sure there is some free play in the lever, or the throw out bearing will be constantly rotating and wear out.

[Wayne Orwig]

2013 v7

Will look at cable adjustment. I've tried rolling the bike a few feet to see if it'll shift, but no dice.

When I shut off the bike, it pops into neutral and 2nd effortlessly.

Clutch drag. Working on a similar issue on a Bassa. Broken clutch plate.
Check cables and such.


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[Chuck in Indiana]

well, yeah.  In the worse case scenario, that can be it. Everyone else is assuming a newby from the way he's explaining what is going on..

[Tom]

ehhhhhhhhhhh........

[slowmover]

It's the only complaint about my 2013 Stone.My problem is from neutral to first at a stoplight. I've tried everything suggested ,adjusting the lever, pre-loading the foot lever and trying to find where it"snicks"in ,rolling it forward ect. It's never consistent. Sometimes she goes easy and the next stop she clunks.

[normzone]

Well, then even a tyro such as myself can play the game.

Take a look at your shift linkage and make sure nothing has or is about to fall off.

[Tom]

 :1:  The main bushing on your linkage may not be moving properly for shifting.  You may want to clean and grease it.

[Steph]

Try giving it a bit of throttle moments before shifting to spin the gearbox internals a bit faster. Brutalizing the gear lever with your foot will get you nowhere, well yes, maybe a damaged gearbox fork selector

[normzone]

  Besides a complete tear down, what should I be looking for?

It would be a lot more entertaining if you did a complete teardown first, THEN tried all the other suggestions.

But it's late in the day, and I'm easily entertained. Never mind, follow the instructions as above.

I pulled my transmission once thinking my clutch was done for - it turned out to be the spline gear in the rear wheel hub was worn to where it would engage at low revs but in first gear on the centerstand you could stop the wheel turning with the sole of your boot. Never saw that one coming - the bike ran wonderfully until one day on the freeway I suddenly had five neutrals - well, six if you count the original one.

[Dofin]

Had the same issue with my V7.  It was a simple cable adjustment.  If you have a lot of miles on the bike you might want to check the clutch adjustment clearance at the Tran?

[Guzzi Gal]

It's the only complaint about my 2013 Stone.My problem is from neutral to first at a stoplight. I've tried everything suggested ,adjusting the lever, pre-loading the foot lever and trying to find where it"snicks"in ,rolling it forward ect. It's never consistent. Sometimes she goes easy and the next stop she clunks.

Same here, with a snick, no thunks.  She doesn't like to go into first from neutral most of the time, but if I go into 2nd, then down to 1st, she's good to go. 

[Muzz]

I find that as the Breva warms up it is easier if I knock it in to neutral while still moving. (I don't like holding it in first at the lights). Goes in to first easily though.

[Chet Rugg]

hopefullly waynes t heory is not the problem    I have seen that exact thing happen.
broken piece of clutch plate stacking on top of the other causing unexplainable problems.
adjust  all cables and free play good to go . take out for a ride good to go   next pull of lever everything bad again?
I said hopefully waynes theory is not the problem but wayne knows his stuff from shear experience.

[Chet Rugg]

grease your shift linkage balls

[perter]

Flea, is that related to your other clutch issue post?
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=91765.msg1449802#msg1449802

From my poor experience I would suggest adjusting the clutch cable too, apparently the lock up happens only when the engine is running so the logical conclusion is clutch drag.

On the other hand, your August post could indicate some more serious trouble with the clutch? Has that ever been sorted?

[fossil]

Well, let´s assume the clutch cable is properly adjusted (it´s really no big thing). My 2013 Stone sometimes shows the same. Then I give a little pressure on the shift lever and let the clutch carefully grip a bit. Then it works on my bike.

[pebra]

FWIW:
I had problems with clutching on my Griso, it was getting more and more difficult to change gears, acutely so after 13,000 km
Turned out a pressure bearing was missing.

[Kev m]

My first answer too.  The factory calls for only 1mm of slack in the cable.

I knew it was a V7 too (ok, I guessed well) because every smallblock I ever demo'd from a dealer was not set up properly and I had to adjust the clutch cable in the parking lot or the side of the road.

1mm is not enough, I tend to set it to 2-3 mm and haven't had that problem since, on my 2013 V7 Stone that was almost as poorly setup by FBF as their demo I'd ridden just a month earlier.

[Flea]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! I didn't get to leave work until 7ish last night and by the time I got home (1ish) I was too tired to look at anything.

Since it was alot cooler at night, the bike shifted effortlessly... Going to take a look at the linkage this weekend in good light to make sure there aren't any overly grimey parts.

Anyone in NYC during the week?

[jackpayback]

Hey Flea,

I think you might be having a similar issue to me.  I have difficulty shifting when the bike gets hot and I completely ran out of clutch adjustment at the lever and at the transmission.  It's gotten progressively worse over time.

Hymes Inc. suggested that it is a bad clutch rod and throwout bearing.  Here is the post I made that he replied to.  http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=92653.msg1462965#msg1462965

He linked me to this AF1 Racing article about it: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?326857-V7-Clutch-Rod-and-Throw-Out-Bearing-Replacement

I ordered and received the parts and I'm just waiting to get my bike back from repairs tonight.  Crashed the bike from a bike delivery guy cutting me off on a illegal right turn a few weeks ago.

I'm also in NYC, in Brooklyn.  I'm planning on doing the clutch rod replacement this weekend if I don't have to work.  You're welcome to join.

[Tom]

You with all the crazies in the warehouse??

[malik]

Same here, with a snick, no thunks.  She doesn't like to go into first from neutral most of the time, but if I go into 2nd, then down to 1st, she's good to go.

On that new bike of yours, probably just a cable adjustment at the lever is required. Pull back the rubber, loosen off the large knurled ring lock, wind out the longer, smaller knurled  piece a few turns, check the free play, tighten back the lock nut, pull back the rubber. And try again. Note that the locknut has a distressing tendency to loosen under the rubber if only locked finger tight.

With time & experience, the symptoms become familiar, & you just stop & adjust.

[malik]

There's another thread somewhere on here with a most succinct instruction for adjustment  top & bottom on the V7 by Pete Roper. In the same thread (or perhaps another around the same time) are photos of  a recessed outer body behind the clutch rod (at the gearbox end) indicating the need for a new thrust bearing. It's hard to search it on this tablet, but it's there - I've saved the Roper excerpt dated1Oct 2016 & 23 Apr 2015.

[Guzzi Gal]

On that new bike of yours, probably just a cable adjustment at the lever is required. Pull back the rubber, loosen off the large knurled ring lock, wind out the longer, smaller knurled  piece a few turns, check the free play, tighten back the lock nut, pull back the rubber. And try again. Note that the locknut has a distressing tendency to loosen under the rubber if only locked finger tight.

With time & experience, the symptoms become familiar, & you just stop & adjust.

First she wouldn’t go into neutral for a couple of days, then all was well for a few.  After that, she started complaining about coming out of neutral.  The neutral light will go off, but goes back on when you try to engage the clutch.  So I snuged the cable up a touch, and it a became 50/50 chance of snicking in.  I installed adjustable levers last weekend, but haven’t had the chance to give ‘em a try (catching up on housework  ).  I hope to try them out in a test ride this evening. 

[malik]

You will have loosened off the adjuster right off to get the new lever on, then re-set it. I leave the rubber sheath folded back until I'm happy with the adjustment. It's a bit of a pain, even with a touch of rubber grease. I also re-route the cable so that the 90 degree metal curve is pointing down rather than forward. That seems to help.