V7 III Stone schedule maintenance

[scagliog]

Hello,

proud new owner of a V7III Stone. Got back into bikes after a long break -- just in love with this bike.
I am supposed to do the 900 miles scheduled service in about 300 miles..
The Guzzi dealer where I bought the bike is almost 1 hr away, so I was thinking of taking the bike to a local Ducati shop, which has very high ratings.

I was wondering however if for warranty purposes is recommended ( it is not mandatory in the warranty document ) to only go to the official Guzzi dealers for the first 2 years.

Anybody had experience with warranties and the Piaggio group USA ?

Thank you in advance!
Giuseppe

[MacGlennon]

I'm thinking that this service needs to be done by an official MG dealer (for warranty purposes).

[Guzzi Gal]

I did my Anni's first service at 600, using this as my guide https://www.motointernational.com/service/engine-break-in-and-first-service-on-a-v7 , with the next oil change around 3000.

My mechanic said with oil changes every 2500ish miles our beauties should be nearly bulletproof.  He is "factory trained", but works out of his home, so I'm not sure if he qualifies as an official warranty provider.  That said, he came HIGHLY recommended, so I'm not worried.   

[scagliog]

Thanks for the replies...
I have other ~500 miles to think about it :)

I think I am going to chat with the local Ducati mechanic and see if he would have all the tools to do a Guzzi. The official warranty docs say it is not required to have the service done at a Guzzi Authorized service center but just recommended ..

Cheers,
Giuseppe

[pete roper]

Does it use the same instrument binnacle as the V9? If so there is a special cable required for PADS to turn off the service icon. Unless that's been sorted by the aftermarket now? I haven't seen a V9 or a V7-III yet so I have no idea.

Pete

[Kev m]

In the US the federal warranty act (Magnuson-Moss) basically protects the consumer from having to return to an OEM dealer for service.

It does however allow that a manufacturer can require that service is properly performed in order to keep the warranty applicable for a related failure.

So if you perform it yourself or someone else who has the knowledge (service manual, and ability), then Piaggio should not deny a claim.

In all cases other than maybe racing, Piaggio cannot summarily dismiss the entire warranty. They can't claim you changed your oil improperly so they won't cover your ECU, or front fork, or headlight.

They can however blame say a burnt valve on improper valve lash.

I haven't had a warranty claim on my three new Guzzis so I can't say specifically from dealing with Piaggio, though I've never had a problem with a warranty claim from any other manufacturer (motorcycle or automotive).

I will say that in the unlikely event that you do need to make a warranty claim I would think it would be good to have some sort of relationship with your dealer so if you do all the services yourself it might not hurt to at least buy some fluids and filters from them or the like.

But no you don't HAVE TO bring it back to dealer.

[scagliog]

Hello,

thanks that makes a lot of sense.

I am mostly worried that a non Guzzi mechanic will not have the tools to lookup a code or reset a code, rather than voiding the warranty ...

Giuseppe

[rider33]

while there is no warenty-related reason to take it to the dealer in the US it is the one service on any bike that I always try to have the dealer perform.  Basically, it's a check that set up was correct and that it is performing property.  Should you have a problem down the line that's a good baseline to have.  Also, any bike tends to have a few things that are unique to that model,  having someone that sees a lot of them can be useful.  'Not a must-do but generally speaking a good idea, even if you tend to do all your maintence yourself.

[rodekyll]

My opinion is that if you're going to spend money on your first service, it ought to be done by a Guzzi shop.  They're more model-aware.  They'll have eyes more trained to trouble and parts/consumables/service bulletins ready.  A non-guzzi shop won't.  If anything out of the ordinary is discovered at a non-guzzi shop it might take a while for the parts to arrive, and little things that a proper shop might be able to give away right away, a non-guzzi shop might have to source, with necessary delays and charges. 

If you're not going to have it done by a guzzi shop, you might as well start collecting the tools and books and jump in your own self.  Spend the $$ the shop would have gotten on tooling and education.  It doesn't take that much of either to keep a Guzzi on the road.  Just remember to keep good service records with pics and receipts.  For warranty purposes it's not what you did to maintain the bike that matters, it's what you can prove you did.

But this is an excellent time of ownership to decide if you want to be the rider/mechanic or just the rider.  No shame either way. 

[Vagrant]

If a shop doesn't have the tools to work on a V7III then they sure couldn't work on a Ducati.
unless there is a running problem or code showing up you don't need to hook it to a computer. all info is in the shop manual and owner's book. Including how to reset the shift light and the traction control if desired.
real question is what to set the valves at for the V7III. the shop guide says 4 & 6 and the decal on the bike says 6 & 8. I did the 4 & 6. also it doesn't need the heads retorqued like older V7's. then there is the fact that the 6 speed takes 1/2 liter of oil 75-90# not the full one like the 5 speeds and the rear end needs 5.6 Oz of oil 75/140. all very confusing even for authorised dealers.
this is also the time to sit on your butt with a cold one and check every nut bolt and screw for tightness. I doubt you will find a loose one on a III but you won't find a tight one on a earlier V7.
best to do it yourself if competent and with an experienced person who might just volunteer to help if we just knew where you lived.

[Kev m]

I was going to say that no computer is needed unless:

* Someone wants to install a factory map.
* There's a trouble-code present so the Check Engine light is on and diagnostics are warranted.
* OR if there's no way to reset the service light.

I can't speak to the last one on the V7 III Stone - since the dash is different from the previous dashes. And it sounded like Pete knew that the new dash in the V9 required using a scan tool.

But Vagrant, do you have a V7III Stone (EDIT, no I see you have the special) or have seen the procedure that applies specifically to the Stone? Just curious for both the OP and my own knowledge base. I could sure see adding a V7III Stone to the fleet someday!

[Lcarlson]

Hello,

proud new owner of a V7III Stone. Got back into bikes after a long break -- just in love with this bike.
I am supposed to do the 900 miles scheduled service in about 300 miles..
The Guzzi dealer where I bought the bike is almost 1 hr away, so I was thinking of taking the bike to a local Ducati shop, which has very high ratings

Thank you in advance!
Giuseppe

If your dealer is less than an hour away, I suspect most people on this list are envious. I don’t see why you would consider taking it anyplace else.

[pyoungbl]

Golly, it's great to support the 'local' dealer.  With that said, the service on a V7 III should be pretty darn simple.  There is only one throttle body so nothing to balance.  The valves are super easy to check/adjust.  Changing the oil is a snap...in the engine and rear drive.  I'd probably have to suck the oil out of the tranny but I have a tool for that.  Everything else is common sense checking for loose fasteners.  If this first service comes to $500 as I would expect I'd find that a hard pill to swallow knowing how simple it is.

Peter Y.

[Gliderjohn]

Still have to watch a dealer. After buying my 8V Norge I noticed on the service ticket from my break in service that they used 10-40 dino oil. Took synthetic 10-60 to them and had them change it out. Have heard of other dealers doing that. Would think that would not help support the warranty.
GliderJohn

[malik]

My opinion is that if you're going to spend money on your first service, it ought to be done by a Guzzi shop.  They're more model-aware.  They'll have eyes more trained to trouble and parts/consumables/service bulletins ready.  A non-guzzi shop won't.  If anything out of the ordinary is discovered at a non-guzzi shop it might take a while for the parts to arrive, and little things that a proper shop might be able to give away right away, a non-guzzi shop might have to source, with necessary delays and charges. 

If you're not going to have it done by a guzzi shop, you might as well start collecting the tools and books and jump in your own self.  Spend the $$ the shop would have gotten on tooling and education.  It doesn't take that much of either to keep a Guzzi on the road.  Just remember to keep good service records with pics and receipts.  For warranty purposes it's not what you did to maintain the bike that matters, it's what you can prove you did.

But this is an excellent time of ownership to decide if you want to be the rider/mechanic or just the rider.  No shame either way.

The definitive advice - an hour's trip is a slight on the V7 - my early morning "constitutional" is an hour & a half each way & is pretty much a doddle. If you've a job to go to, it may be somewhat inconvenient, but phone and make arrangements with your dealer for the day you're free. Do get the first service done by the shop, and check if you can arrange to watch. All the rest of the services are easy enough done at home. While you are there at the dealers, pick up a set of filters, the crush washers & a couple of rocker cover gaskets for the next time.

[Vagrant]

I was going to say that no computer is needed unless:

* Someone wants to install a factory map.
* There's a trouble-code present so the Check Engine light is on and diagnostics are warranted.
* OR if there's no way to reset the service light.

I can't speak to the last one on the V7 III Stone - since the dash is different from the previous dashes. And it sounded like Pete knew that the new dash in the V9 required using a scan tool.

But Vagrant, do you have a V7III Stone (EDIT, no I see you have the special) or have seen the procedure that applies specifically to the Stone? Just curious for both the OP and my own knowledge base. I could sure see adding a V7III Stone to the fleet someday!

no, I missed the fact that the 17 stone might be different from the special. ever wonder how much they really saved by losing the tach?
my 2015 is a stone the 17 a special just because "I HATE BLACKED OUT BIKES" real motorcycles should have chrome pipes and shinny red gas tanks.  Are you listening designers.

FYI, you don't need rocker gaskets on the III they should be lifetime.

[Kev m]

my 2015 is a stone the 17 a special just because "I HATE BLACKED OUT BIKES" real motorcycles should have chrome pipes and shinny red gas tanks.  Are you listening designers.

FYI, you don't need rocker gaskets on the III they should be lifetime.

I hope they are not listening cause I f'n hate CHROME....

[malik]

I hope they are not listening cause I f'n hate CHROME....

I like the matt chrome on the III Racer. Though not a fan of the red of its frame.

[Vagrant]

This should start a real discussion!
Drive through a Cadillac dealership and 50% of the cars will be bright red with lots of chrome.
Not a matte black in the bunch.
I really want to say it's the only way they can sell them but I won't. OOPS!

[Kev m]

This should start a real discussion!
Drive through a Cadillac dealership and 50% of the cars will be bright red with lots of chrome.
Not a matte black in the bunch.
I really want to say it's the only way they can sell them but I won't. OOPS!

?!?

* Cadillac is still a relevant brand?

* You are talking about driving through a Cadillac dealership a decade or two ago right?!?

* Maybe they know their audience (really old people with no taste)?

* Chrome WHAT? Seriously since when does the modern automotive industry use chrome anything? Bezels?

[Guzzi Gal]

I've love chrome, as evidenced by my choice of bike, but I also like the murdered out stealth trend.  I dig the Racer's red frame, and I'm more than a little tempted to get a set of the '18 V7 III red head covers when they become available.  Then I may just have to upholster a gel seat in red to match.  Yeah, I'm a freak, but at least I'm a Guzzi riding one.

[TimmyTheHog]

I hope they are not listening cause I f'n hate CHROME....

lol...I don't F'n hate Chrome, but I do prefer without it...

as shiny as they are, oh god they are pain in the ass to keep clean...and I like my toys clean...off road or not lol

[Kev m]

lol...I don't F'n hate Chrome, but I do prefer without it...

as shiny as they are, oh god they are pain in the ass to keep clean...and I like my toys clean...off road or not lol

I hate chrome so much the then already classic 1970 muscle car I had in college had painted bumpers!!!

[DaSwami]

No re-torquing the heads on the V7III?   That's kind of a big deal, as there is definitely a procedure in doing it right and not all dealers get it.  The less a dealer has to to the better. 

My next Guzzi I'm doing all the fluids myself and finding someone to do the valves for break-in.

That is confusing, if the shop manual and sticker on the bike say to set the lash at two different numbers...

[scagliog]

WoW ! Thanks for the great advice -- I am taking it to the Guzzi dealer for at least the first 2 or 3 checks!!
I found out that a coworker passes by it every day so he can actually drop me off to pick it up when it is done...

Now -- maybe I should change the thread Subject.

Bike has 400 miles now ( loving the California Jannary 63 degrees weather right now ), and I am driving it below 4500 RPM (well it is set to give me the red ligth over that ). I am doing nice hills and change of speeds, also taking my wife with me a few times ( she is becoming becoming more addicted than me! )

I started noticing like a rattle coming from the left cylinder when accellerating from 2d to 3d or 1st to 2d and do getting close to the 4500 RPM. It kind of comes and goes.. a deepr rattle...only with the faster accellerations.

Also, when the bike is idling I can hear the transmission kind of clanking and rattling... and all gets quite as soon as I pull the clutch. That was not there when I bought the bike.

Do you think that the transmission noise that goes away when pulling the clutch is normal as the bike gets looser?
For sure something to do with the clutch ..but again I am totally new with this transmission and it could be normal.

I am wondering if I should anticipate my trip to the dealer and the first service maintanence ..


Thank you again,
Giuseppe

[twowings]

Never forget no one loves and cares for your bike quite like you can...

[malik]

The rattle at idle until the clutch lever is pulled is normal - at least it is in the older V7s.

About the rattles on acceleration - first check that the headlight is not loose in the bucket, that the horns are bolted on tightly, that all the exhaust connections & bolts are tight and run your hand over all the other fasteners. The vibrations from the engine can loosen fasteners, especially when new. Although it may sound dire, with any luck it may only be something that's worked itself loose.

If the rattle continues, raise the query again.

Luck, Mal.

[pete roper]

No re-torquing the heads on the V7III?   That's kind of a big deal, as there is definitely a procedure in doing it right and not all dealers get it.  The less a dealer has to to the better. 

My next Guzzi I'm doing all the fluids myself and finding someone to do the valves for break-in.

That is confusing, if the shop manual and sticker on the bike say to set the lash at two different numbers...

Head gaskets are almost certainly coated steel laminates, effectively incompressible so no need to re-torque. As for valve clearances? I can see absolutely no reason why they should need to be bigger than four and six thou. If you set them to that, if there are any issues the bike will tell you before it does any permanent damage by stalling when hot. If it does that? Open them up a couple of thou.

One of the big advantages of any of the models that use the MUIG-3 is that they are very difficult for Harry Hometune to bugger up. As long as you leave the throttle body alone there isn't much that can be screwed up!

Pete

[jbell]

I will say that in the unlikely event that you do need to make a warranty claim I would think it would be good to have some sort of relationship with your dealer so if you do all the services yourself it might not hurt to at least buy some fluids and filters from them or the like.

But no you don't HAVE TO bring it back to dealer.
[/quote

 :1:
Yeah, if you are going to pay someone, pay the one that will do you the most good.
That dry clutch rattle has been going on since the first V7 in 1968.  Not to worry unless it gets really loud.

[egschade]

I started noticing like a rattle coming from the left cylinder when accelerating from 2d to 3d or 1st to 2d and do getting close to the 4500 RPM. It kind of comes and goes.. a deeper rattle...only with the faster accelerations.

Also check the torque on your exhaust. A loose header can make a rattly sound much like a valve tick. Further down the exhaust the muffler clamps can loosen. Mine were making some noise and needed tightening at 300 mi.