2012 Norge swingarm bearing

[toolittletime]

I am in the process of winter maintenance, and would like to do the swing arm bearing (check for grease). I have located the tutorial done by leafman60
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=66579.0

It looks like a lot of the procedure is similar once you get to it. Looks like the bracket for the footrest is in the way. does anyone have any info on removing the footrest brackets...looks like brake pedal too.
2012 Norge 8v

Thanks.........Tim

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes it will be similar to my Griso
You have to remove the left hand side bracket to access the pivot bolt.
The RH side can stay where it is, nothing under there.
Nothing very tricky just watch you don't lose any of the little needle rollers out of the 4 pivot bearings.
If you don't have a lift to support the bike when you pull the swing arm I have a design you can make from wood go about $10, lifts the bike from the ground without a jack.


Sent from my shoe phone!

[guzzisteve]

A few bolts to get them loose, brake lever and all go w/it. Put it back how you take it apart, make notes.  Look in your parts book!!
http://www.guzzitek.org/gb/pl_us_uk/1200/Norge1200_8V_2010-2013_112013_PL(GB).pdf

[toolittletime]

I did find this tip over at the other place:

Some tips:
Start by removing the RH footpeg plate while bike is on the side stand. Disconnect the brake switch wire block connector and gas tank dump tube. Leave everything on the plate, remove the rear caliper and it all comes off as a unit. Replace center stand/bottom plate bolts.

Place bike on centerstand. Disconnect the shift linkage - no need to remove the shift lever. You'll need a thin 5mm box wrench to hold the ball joint while removing the nylok nut. As Kevin said - replace the center stand bolts after removing the footpeg plate.

Tells you to reinstall the bottom bolts that are on the foot peg mounts, so the center stand does not rotate up and collapse the bike onto yourself.
So if I am reading this correctly as long as you re insert the bottom bolts on each side, you can remove everything while on the center stand, without any other aids.........correc t?????

Thanks

[pete roper]

I'd recommend against trying o arse about with the centrestand. Too easy to have it collapse.

Just support the bike under the sump and tie it down at the front. Once the wheel, bevelbox and brake/ABS gubbins is out the way drop off both side plates, (Disconnect the gear linkage at a ball joint. If you don't want to mess about disconnecting the brake light switch at the back just hang the plate off the bar with a bungee cord being careful not to stretch anything.)

Snip the two cable ties that hold the boot on between the gearbox and swingarm, remove the bevelbox, disconnect the shock linkage and loosen the swingarm pinch bolts before undoing the castellated preload nut and then the swingarm spindle. Pull swingarm rearwards down over the driveshaft. You can then hook the bearings out with your finger.

I think from memory the exhaust colostomy bag can stay in place but the muffler needs to come off to get the LH plate off.

Pete

[Kiwi_Roy]

I did find this tip over at the other place:

Some tips:
Start by removing the RH footpeg plate while bike is on the side stand. Disconnect the brake switch wire block connector and gas tank dump tube. Leave everything on the plate, remove the rear caliper and it all comes off as a unit. Replace center stand/bottom plate bolts.

Place bike on centerstand. Disconnect the shift linkage - no need to remove the shift lever. You'll need a thin 5mm box wrench to hold the ball joint while removing the nylok nut. As Kevin said - replace the center stand bolts after removing the footpeg plate.

Tells you to reinstall the bottom bolts that are on the foot peg mounts, so the center stand does not rotate up and collapse the bike onto yourself.
So if I am reading this correctly as long as you re insert the bottom bolts on each side, you can remove everything while on the center stand, without any other aids.........correc t?????

Thanks

This doesn't apply to a Griso for sure, on it you just remove the LH footpeg plate and you have to leave it off to access the swing-arm pivot bolt and pinch bolts behind it.

Without knowing how the centerstand mounts on the bike I don't know if you can use it or not. I built a shop stand to use the Luigi hole through the frame.

[Huzo]

Or.....
I left mine on the centrestand, and fed a fabric truckies ratchet strap thru' the rear grab rail and up into the over head beam, this took up 90% of the load, leaving the centrestand to fundamentally steady the whole shooting match.
No it didn't break.. (2,500 kg rating)
The front wheel was also clamped in the front of the scissor lift.
Solid as a brick shithouse !!!

[toolittletime]

Thanks gang, for all of the comments and suggestions. I managed to get the chore completed today.

I did as some suggested and strapped down the front end and did put a block under the engine. On the right side I did remove the foot brake pedal, since it obscures one on the bottom bolts. As suggested, I used a couple of bungee cords to hold the footpeg bracket back out of the way.
 




I then inserted one of the bottom bolts back into the centerstand bracket .

On the left side I removed the shifter, although some had suggested taking the linkage apart. Once the pinch bolt is removed, it just slides out the back.
It gave me an opportunity to grease the bushing on the shifter and on the brake pedal.



After removing the 4 bolts that hold the footpeg bracket on, I inserted a short bolt into the centerstand bracket from my supply, since the bolts on the footpeg mount were too long.

After this the removal and bearing check was pretty straightforward using leafmans post from earlier.
 
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=66579.0 

I used an adjustable hook wrench, to remove the preload bushing, and it was just a little more than hand tight. I don' t really think it is necessary to buy a special tool for this. The shaft is removed with a 14mm allen wrench, which I was lucky to have.
The bearing were dry (bike has 18,000 miles) as expected, so I greased and re installed, also greased the drive shaft splines with moly before re installing. I also greased the needle bearings on the bracket that links the shock and swingarm together. Everything went back together in reverse.

Yesterday I had done an oil and filter change, and changed the tranny and rear end fluids, so I should be good to go for a while.
Time to complete the swingarm was about 5 hours, including cleaning everything up as I went....not too bad a job!

Thanks for all the help...........Tim

[Huzo]

You do learn a lot doing it yourself and the added satisfaction of knowing it was done damn right, can't be overstated.
Just why the bloody hell they won't grease things is perplexing.
Fair dinkum, you shoulda' seen how mine came out when I first checked them.
They were so dry, the rollers had rusted to the point where they were no longer round in profile, absolutely disgraceful !
Put a new set in and packed them solid with Moly grease.
Just as an aside, did you have any trouble with the "seal" on the right hand (brake) side, when sliding the pivot shaft back in ?
If you did, I can give you a solution, but you sound like you have it sussed.

[Kiwi_Roy]

You do learn a lot doing it yourself and the added satisfaction of knowing it was done damn right, can't be overstated.
Just why the bloody hell they won't grease things is perplexing.
Fair dinkum, you shoulda' seen how mine came out when I first checked them.
They were so dry, the rollers had rusted to the point where they were no longer round in profile, absolutely disgraceful !
Put a new set in and packed them solid with Moly grease.
Just as an aside, did you have any trouble with the "seal" on the right hand (brake) side, when sliding the pivot shaft back in ?
If you did, I can give you a solution, but you sound like you have it sussed.

I was told and it makes sense any grease you see is just the shipping grease that came from the bearing factory.

[Kiwi_Roy]

For future wheel off jobs consider making this

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=93217.0

It takes me less than 30 seconds to get the bike lifted off the deck without any aid.

[toolittletime]

Yea...they were dry, but to my untrained eye they looked like they had suffered no damage. This is a good winter time job for me ....did a coolant flush last week in the wife's Goldwing. Takes half a day to get the tupperware off.  Norge is easy compared to the Wing.

For future wheel off jobs consider making this

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=93217.0

It takes me less than 30 seconds to get the bike lifted off the deck without any aid.

Good idea ....great  instructions...

Tim