The things you find..

[Chuck in Indiana]

If you use the Tonti style "velocity stacks" or machine the rings off of the original Loop ones, those K&Ns will slip on fine. I would never run them without some sort of stack - incoming air would have to flow over a rather abrupt step and that can have a detrimental effect on performance.

That's what I was thinking. Thanks again, Charlie. All that stuff is water under the bridge, now. Now, I've lost an idiot light for whatever reason.. maybe it's telling me who's the idiot.. and reading about the idiosyncrasies of the loop wiring diagrams. Oh, and comparing that to the bodged electrical system. It really..really needs a new harness and I don't want to do it. I told the guy I would get it running and see what he had. I will do that. It should run now, once it gets fuel. Never have figured out how to set initial timing with the Pertronix system. Those air cleaners that have been on fire give me pause. I'd like the timing to be in the ball park when it's cranked for real. 

[Tom H]

Charlie, you are right. I have heard of using the Toni style stacks. Before the internet and thoughts from others at your fingertips, I did install this filter direct to the carb. Now I'm running the stock stack and a Uni filter set that fits nicely.

Chuck, May I suggest just installing the dist, cap and mark the dist. where the #2 plug contact is. Then rotate the engine until #2 is at TDC with both valves closed and verify that the TDC mark on the pulley lines up with the arrow on the timing cover. If the mark does not liine up, remove and adjust the pulley. Then put the dist. rotor on and see where it lines up in relation to your mark on the dist.. IF it's very close I would give it a try and with a timing light see where your at.

Just my 2 cents,
Tom

[KJDub]

Was there a milk crate strapped on that?

What d'you got against milk crates?  Mine works great...just have to watch out for the KLR riders, they'll steal'em!
KJ

[Chuck in Indiana]

The things you find.. it looks as if the DPO finally gave up after the fire and decided to get rid of it.  He lined the tank to stop the leak (s), and put her on ebay. Of course, that's purely conjecture on my part.. but..
At any rate the liner has it glued together and the vent holes totally plugged. Maybe it would have been a good idea to seal it up when sloshing it with something other than the cap? 
2018-11-23_09-18-24 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
I have the stop watch running when I'm "working.." 26 minutes to get it apart, clean out the holes, put a new gasket on it, and reassemble without damaging the cap. I'll try not to break my arm patting myself on the back. 

Now for the *real* problem.
2018-11-23_11-06-54 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
Obviously, this isn't going to get it.
What I'm wondering is this. I have an antique (naturally) big hunker soldering iron. I'm wondering if I could clean this area well with my die grinder and soft solder all around the boss?
I *could* silver solder it, but that would require all the hassle of totally cleaning and drying the tank for several days, etc.. and.. burn up the DPOs tank liner.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

What a mess.  Soldering it is worth a try, although it looks like someone may have tried that already? I'm sure you'd do a much better job. FWIW, the thread inside the bung is M12-1.00.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Ok, I'll give it a try. I cleaned up the crud out of the threads as best I could by scraping them with a 5/16-24 tap. Of course it's the wrong diameter, but the thread pitch is very close. I'll check at the remaining  hardware store and see if they have a tap.
Thanks again, Charlie.. I appreciate the help. 

[Tom]

Marine Tex would work.  It's like JB Weld but way better for marine applications and works.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Marine Tex would work.  It's like JB Weld but way better for marine applications and works.

Thanks for that, Tom. That will be my backup plan.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Ok, so here was the original problem. The tank had rusted away on this side of the boss. The red you see is the tank liner. There is no choice at this point but to try soft solder. Silver solder would melt the tank liner and contaminate the attempted repair.
2018-11-24_10-44-51 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

Continued with the carbide burr and ate out the rest of the previous soldering job and some kind of epoxy.

[Chuck in Indiana]

If it leaks, I'll always thought it shouldn't have.    I got a pretty good fillet of solder around the boss, and feathered out to good metal on the tank. Hopefully.
There are no M12X1 taps locally. There are M12X1.75, 1.5, and 1.25. Amazon to the rescue again. It'll be here Monday, along with Tom's Marine Tex, just in case.
Another 43 minutes to do this..  but we should be about done. Hopefully..
2018-11-24_11-26-11 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

[Aaron D.]

Marine-Tex is great stuff but I don't know if I'd use it there..not that it matters I suppose. I'd put more faith in solder or better yet brazing.

But I know you want to be shut of the whole thing. At least the sensible part of you.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Marine-Tex is great stuff but I don't know if I'd use it there..not that it matters I suppose. I'd put more faith in solder or better yet brazing.

But I know you want to be shut of the whole thing. At least the sensible part of you.

This ain't my first rodeo on brazing..  the heat involved would melt that tank liner, and contaminate it to the point where it would never tin.

[Muzz]

This is turning in to a very entertaining thread thanks Chuck.

Between you and Canuck, I can see WG'ers entertained throughout your winter.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

If it leaks, I'll always thought it shouldn't have.    I got a pretty good fillet of solder around the boss, and feathered out to good metal on the tank. Hopefully.
There are no M12X1 taps locally. There are M12X1.75, 1.5, and 1.25. Amazon to the rescue again. It'll be here Monday, along with Tom's Marine Tex, just in case.
Another 43 minutes to do this..  but we should be about done. Hopefully..

 

[beardog]

Fascinating and enlightening WOW I wish I knew half of what you know.  Thank god for you and this forum.

[Chuck in Indiana]

This is turning in to a very entertaining thread thanks Chuck.

Between you and Canuck, I can see WG'ers entertained throughout your winter.

Throughout the Winter??  I hope not.  I have 17:02 "billable" hours in it now. *Assuming* the tank doesn't leak, another hour or so should get it running down the road to see if the transmission transmits, the rear drive drives, the generator generates, etc.    I still wonder about the Distinguished Previous Owner saying the clutch needs "adjusted." This bike hasn't run for years. How would he know? Everything else is working.
Theoretically, this is a low mileage Eldo. That's why I was blindsided by the tank. And the bodged wiring.  I should have known better. I've seen some real (ahem) turds (Mark's definition) at MG Classics over the years. Back in the busy days there, he'd occasionally give me one to get running when I was out in SoCal, bored, and needed something to do. 

[Muzz]

Well Chuck, I am pleased that you get bored and need something to do.

[larrys]

Chuck,
You're a good friend. That's a project that keeps on giving... Lots o' entertainment value.
Larry

[huub]

i've had good results soldering on petrol tap bosses.
if i cant find the original weird tap from a rebuild, i simply grind the old off.
 i make a brass boss for the normal guzzi tap , and solder it in place.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chuck,
You're a good friend. That's a project that keeps on giving... Lots o' entertainment value.
Larry

Thanks. I've been entertained and learned many things about loops all week.   
But wait! There's more! Lots more, but a guy has to draw the line somewhere..

Speaking about learning about loops, this one came with no breather or transmission breather hoses. I've figured out where the engine breather hose goes, but haven't seen any pix of the stock setup for the transmission breather. I'm thinking of just zip tying it vertically to the frame tube.. is there a better idea?

[John A]

Thanks. I've been entertained and learned many things about loops all week.   
But wait! There's more! Lots more, but a guy has to draw the line somewhere..

Speaking about learning about loops, this one came with no breather or transmission breather hoses. I've figured out where the engine breather hose goes, but haven't seen any pix of the stock setup for the transmission breather. I'm thinking of just zip tying it vertically to the frame tube.. is there a better idea?

It just goes vertical for four to six inches then points down. Nice work on the solder, I can only do it if I strip it all down to clean metal. You should open a radiator shop!

[Chuck in Indiana]

It just goes vertical for four to six inches then points down. Nice work on the solder, I can only do it if I strip it all down to clean metal. You should open a radiator shop!

Thanks, John. Had a job. Don't want another one.. 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Thanks. I've been entertained and learned many things about loops all week.   
But wait! There's more! Lots more, but a guy has to draw the line somewhere..

Speaking about learning about loops, this one came with no breather or transmission breather hoses. I've figured out where the engine breather hose goes, but haven't seen any pix of the stock setup for the transmission breather. I'm thinking of just zip tying it vertically to the frame tube.. is there a better idea?

I run the trans. breather hose vertically as far as possible. I usually terminate it in the "u-channel" of the frame.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I run the trans. breather hose vertically as far as possible. I usually terminate it in the "u-channel" of the frame.

Will do. Thanks again, Charlie.. 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Crap. It's still leaking. Put fuel in, looked ok. Came back a half hour later, and the petcock was wet.  Can't tell where it originates. Aircraft fuel has dye in it to make fuel leaks show up. Maybe I'll try some avgas..
I wonder if the baby powder trick like you use to find oil leaks would work? Anyone have any experience?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Crap. It's still leaking. Put fuel in, looked ok. Came back a half hour later, and the petcock was wet.  Can't tell where it originates. Aircraft fuel has dye in it to make fuel leaks show up. Maybe I'll try some avgas..
I wonder if the baby powder trick like you use to find oil leaks would work? Anyone have any experience?

  The spray on foot powder? Should work, any type of fluid would leave a track.

[Tom]

Bummer. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

If it leaks, I'll always thought it shouldn't have.    I got a pretty good fillet of solder around the boss, and feathered out to good metal on the tank. Hopefully.
There are no M12X1 taps locally. There are M12X1.75, 1.5, and 1.25. Amazon to the rescue again. It'll be here Monday, along with Tom's Marine Tex, just in case.
Another 43 minutes to do this..  but we should be about done. Hopefully..
[

Nice Job, just a thought though, the wiping metal used for joining lead sheathed cable or body filling might have been easier to use it has a wider temperature range and is easily formed wiping with a Moleskin.

[Chuck in Indiana]

<sigh> There's a pin hole all right. See it to the left of the soldered area?
2018-11-27_11-02-36 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
My best guess is that whole area is rusted almost to the point of rusting through. The red at the bottom is the tank liner and whatever kind of goo on the outside failing. 
I'm thinking the only viable repair would be to cut out the bottom of the tank and weld all new metal in there. Of course, that would involve getting the old liner out of there, the repair, and repaint of the tank. The other side should get some attention, too, at this point. Certainly not cost effective to pay someone to do it. I have a spot blaster, and could maybe blast all these areas and put Tom's Marine tex on it..
Anyone have a good Eldo tank? 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Just had another thought.. I've lined a couple of tanks with Caswell epoxy that turned out beautifully. That might be cost effective..