Few questions about a cali 1100i?

[lad]

I couldn't find anything by searching the forum, so I might just lump everything in here and see what happens.

I noticed a few blank spots (?) when accelerating, at all gears, like no power for a second or two and then it's back.

I pulled the plugs (they were the wrong plugs, rated as cooler) which were black, dry, sooty, and smelling like petrol. Have the proper ones in now and gapped so that's one issue down.




Checked the air filter and it appears to be brand new, although the airbox itself doesn't seem to mate too well, is this common ?




I wanted to check the fuel filter too, but I don't see it in the manual, so maybe there isn't one? But then what's this canister type thing? Is it just the little strainers on the petcock to check? :




And what's this little thing that looks like a thermostat:




Lastly, what's running through the frame? I see some connections along it, one of which is this chunky pipe that seems split and has me worried, any ideas?




That's it really, any help is appreciated. This is my first guzzi that I've owned, and my first post, the first of many (bikes and posts).

Cheers!

[Kiwi_Roy]

First of all welcome to the forum, you are in the right place. What year is your 1100i?
This is a manual for the early fuel injection systems.
https://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf
Item (3) in the second picture is the fuel pressure regulator, it shows yellow hoses going to the manifold but that is an early idea, usually the regulator is referenced to atmosphere (no hose) and the fuel pressure is kept constant.
Is the ignition cutting out with wide throttle openings? That can be caused by bad high tension leads, a quick check is to measure the resistance from plug cap to chassis, should be the same on both sides and around 6-8K Ohms, sometimes they are fitted with carbon core wire, copper core is the way to go.

[guzzisteve]

Here's a manual that covers what you ask------

https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1100/California1100_Atelier_Compil.pdf

The cannisters are EVAP for gas fumes.
Gas filter is in line with the pressure regulator which is the 4th photo down.
Fuel pump is on frame under L/H cover
Air filer is like that sometimes, make sure it's facing the correct way
Hoses on frame is crankcase vent system, it condenses in frame then drains back in block. Follow the hoses, checkball is on top of bellhousing in vent tube.
Tune the bike up, Throttle body set up makes the difference.

[lad]

First of all welcome to the forum, you are in the right place. What year is your 1100i?
This is a manual for the early fuel injection systems.
https://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf
Item (3) in the second picture is the fuel pressure regulator, it shows yellow hoses going to the manifold but that is an early idea, usually the regulator is referenced to atmosphere (no hose) and the fuel pressure is kept constant.
Is the ignition cutting out with wide throttle openings? That can be caused by bad high tension leads, a quick check is to measure the resistance from plug cap to chassis, should be the same on both sides and around 6-8K Ohms, sometimes they are fitted with carbon core wire, copper core is the way to go.

Thanks a lot!

That's definitely the pressure reg, cheers, although I do have those hoses that go down to the manifold.

I'll check the cap resistance, never thought of it as ignition cutting out. I guess first I'll see was it just bad/wrong plugs, but the rest is good to know for future/current service anyway.

[guzzisteve]

You can just take EVAP cannisters & hoses off. Vent tank hose down to fresh air, install a hose from R/H manifold to L/H one. I will run better.
Slide intake tubes into airbox and clean injector body on each side, set your TPS, bleed airscrews on throttle bodies, then sync and it's tuned.

[John A]

Check that the sidestand switch is either adjusted or disconnected.  I disconnect mine because it caused the bike to die when I rode through a flooded spot on the road and I had to put my feet down. On my way to work at the airbase where they put importance on shiny shoes and pressed trousers. Keep the nut on top of the sidestand pivot tight.

[pehayes]

That last picture is the main crankcase breather hose.  It will purge oil mist and make a right mess of everything.  Change it.
Not sure where the fuel filter is on the 1100i.  For the '98EV it is up in center of the tank tunnel.  Bear to get at.
If the bike is new to you, learn how to set and adjust the Throttle Position Sensor.  Maybe clean it out?  Maybe replace it?

Where are you located?  Your profile doesn't specify.  Maybe somebody local can advise.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Tom]

Cali 1100i '93 - '97.  Your fuel filter is in the tangled mess of wire & hoses.  It's a canister type inline gas filter.  Same size as one for a Porsche.  Anyone can correct me.

[lad]

Cali 1100i '93 - '97.  Your fuel filter is in the tangled mess of wire & hoses.  It's a canister type inline gas filter.  Same size as one for a Porsche.  Anyone can correct me.

Right, according to kiwi-roy and his https://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf, it's the 3rd photo, canister job, although guzzisteve says it's EVAP? But I might trust that PDF first, also this pic from some german parts fiche:




Funny how the book I got with it doesn't mention the filter but Kiwi-roy's PDF says to change it every 6, 200 km. Anyway, I think I'll change it for peace of mind, even though it looks like a pain in the ass to get to

[lad]

Here's a manual that covers what you ask------

https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1100/California1100_Atelier_Compil.pdf

The cannisters are EVAP for gas fumes.
Gas filter is in line with the pressure regulator which is the 4th photo down.
Fuel pump is on frame under L/H cover
Air filer is like that sometimes, make sure it's facing the correct way
Hoses on frame is crankcase vent system, it condenses in frame then drains back in block. Follow the hoses, checkball is on top of bellhousing in vent tube.
Tune the bike up, Throttle body set up makes the difference.

Thanks GuzziSteve, that manual has no English, and it doesn't actually cover my model, but maybe there's some common info that I can translate out of it.
I think the canister is the fuel filter ?
Air filter fins are facing up, as per photos...




"checkball is on top of bellhousing in vent tube"...not sure what you mean by this? Figured it was breather, must change it out, even though it also looks like a pain to get to.

I have the diagnostic cables ordered and GuzziDiag on standby so I'll look at the TPS when they come through. Another bramble to navigate no doubt...

cheers

[Tom]

It's #1.  You can back flush with carb spray cleaner.  Spray a lot of it into both ends to dislodge debris.  Blow air into the outlet side to reverse flow.  Confirm no blockage by blowing from inlet side.  If restricted repeat.  Check fuel lines for cracks etc.  You might have either bolt on or clamps.

[lad]

That last picture is the main crankcase breather hose.  It will purge oil mist and make a right mess of everything.  Change it.
Not sure where the fuel filter is on the 1100i.  For the '98EV it is up in center of the tank tunnel.  Bear to get at.
If the bike is new to you, learn how to set and adjust the Throttle Position Sensor.  Maybe clean it out?  Maybe replace it?

Where are you located?  Your profile doesn't specify.  Maybe somebody local can advise.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

I'm in Ireland, probably not too many Cali's over here...but hey. I'll look into the TPS now once the diagnostic cables come in. Does it need replacing often? Think I've found the fuel filter anyway. Still unsure if there's two tube-screen filters in the tank...? Will find out when I pull them anyway

[lad]

It's #1.  You can back flush with carb spray cleaner.  Spray a lot of it into both ends to dislodge debris.  Blow air into the outlet side to reverse flow.  Confirm no blockage by blowing from inlet side.  If restricted repeat.  Check fuel lines for cracks etc.  You might have either bolt on or clamps.

It's not #1, that's the pump, it's #12

[lad]

It's #1.  You can back flush with carb spray cleaner.  Spray a lot of it into both ends to dislodge debris.  Blow air into the outlet side to reverse flow.  Confirm no blockage by blowing from inlet side.  If restricted repeat.  Check fuel lines for cracks etc.  You might have either bolt on or clamps.

Are you talking about back-flushing the pump or the filter?

For the record, I didn't ask about the pump at all, GuzziSteve also mentioned it. There's no trouble with the pump, I know where it is and it seems to be working. If my blank spots in acceleration are a pump fault then fine, I'll eat my hat

[Tom]

It's not #1, that's the pump, it's #12

You're right.  I didn't put the 2 in.  Flushing the fuel filter.  You can test without removing.  Disconnect line from filter on the outlet side.  Turn ignition on.  Have a cup available.

[chuck peterson]

Welcome!

Not shifting at 3k are we and adding a chunk of throttle? That would do the plugs that way..With redline above 8k i love 5k to 6k without speeding. Italian tune up time? Great bike..cleanup here and there should make it a monster

I’m really not diagnosing just pointing my nose where no one has. My apologies if its not likely a problem

[Tom H]

You say blank spots. You mean like your holding the throttle and then want to speed up just a touch and the bike just holds speed or cuts out. Or your rolling on the throttle and it feels like the bike won't go and then does.

That "could" be the TPS. It's easy enough to test with a multimeter. Here are two more places to read about the tune up for EFI Guzzi. EFIMAN as suggested is great, but kinda technical. Read the part about testing the TPS, but for the moment don't worry about the numbers you need to know what ECU you have for that. Hook the multimeter per the instructions and slowly twist the throttle. Your looking for areas where the voltage does not change while twisting the throttle. I think it suggest to use  2 paperclips to insert into the TPS connector, if not, they work well or even sewing needles or pins.

https://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html

https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

Tom

[Tom]

Cruise at 4K rpm's and above.  Shift at 5K rpm's.  Chuck's right.  Try that first.  You'll hardly ever use 5th gear.  1st and 2nd gear around town.  3rd on most country roads.  4th gear on highways.  5th gear when they're no police around.

[lad]

Welcome!

Not shifting at 3k are we and adding a chunk of throttle? That would do the plugs that way..With redline above 8k i love 5k to 6k without speeding. Italian tune up time? Great bike..cleanup here and there should make it a monster

I’m really not diagnosing just pointing my nose where no one has. My apologies if its not likely a problem

....eh.....what's the diagnosis here? ?

[Tom H]

Check here for the English manual and parts diagram for your model.

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti.html

Tom

[Tom]

....eh.....what's the diagnosis here? ?

Don't ride it like a Harley.

[lad]

Check here for the English manual and parts diagram for your model.

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_tonti.html

Tom

Thanks Tom H, this is an OK manual, but it is only 50 pages and doesn't really cover that much. For example, it doesn't mention the fuel filter at all, I had looked at that before I posted this. There is an exploded diagram of the fuel system but nothing is labelled and it there is no reference to it unfortunately.

[lad]

You say blank spots. You mean like your holding the throttle and then want to speed up just a touch and the bike just holds speed or cuts out. Or your rolling on the throttle and it feels like the bike won't go and then does.

That "could" be the TPS. It's easy enough to test with a multimeter. Here are two more places to read about the tune up for EFI Guzzi. EFIMAN as suggested is great, but kinda technical. Read the part about testing the TPS, but for the moment don't worry about the numbers you need to know what ECU you have for that. Hook the multimeter per the instructions and slowly twist the throttle. Your looking for areas where the voltage does not change while twisting the throttle. I think it suggest to use  2 paperclips to insert into the TPS connector, if not, they work well or even sewing needles or pins.

https://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html

https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

Tom

Thanks Tom H, I'll look into these. It's more like the latter problem. Open road in front of me, and i'm max-ing out each gear to see how the response is on my way to top speed. Rolling, as they say.

[lad]

Welcome!

Not shifting at 3k are we and adding a chunk of throttle? That would do the plugs that way..With redline above 8k i love 5k to 6k without speeding. Italian tune up time? Great bike..cleanup here and there should make it a monster

I’m really not diagnosing just pointing my nose where no one has. My apologies if its not likely a problem

Ok, Chuck, I get what you're saying, or as Tom puts it; "Cruise at 4K rpm's and above.  Shift at 5K rpm's.". I have only been on two journeys with it, but I do not treat it so kindly, I am testing its power and opening it up, but maybe the POs had driven it like that.

I did notice 5th gear seems...unecessary? Or way to high for any speed under 100k. Why is this? What is it about the ratio/torque?

Anyway, without getting too technical, I won't treat it kindly 5k-6k.

What's Italian tune-up? Drive it like you stole it? ?

[Tom]

If it's the tps.  Contacts in the TPS may have crud on them.  Either replace or just for the heck of it.  You could trying spraying electric contact cleaner in to it to flush/clean the contacts.  Drill a small hole into the top of the ups.  Be very careful and don't force it.  Use a Dremel type tool.  Insert nozzle of contact cleaner and spray. 

You can't hurt the engine.  It'll hit a rev limiter before you shift.

[pehayes]

I think you have the same TPS as my 98EV.  You can drill a hole as shown here by the little white spot.   Spray in 'tuner cleaner', work the pivot, blow it out with air.  Rinse and repeat.





Maybe I'll come over and set it up for you!!!!

Patrick Hayes
Fremont, CA

[Kiwi_Roy]

I think you will have one of the large pizza box P8 ECUs as shown in the Efiman manual, Item (1) on the first picture
https://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf
The cover can slide off the connector so you can measure the TPS from pin 17 to chassis (or pin 11). If you look at the diagram on page 26 you will see its connected from pin 11 Ground to pin 30 +5 volts
Pin 17 should be 150 mV with the throttle closed from memory and as you slowly open the throttle you will see it ramp up to around 4 Volts, if it does that without jumping around its fine
Someone please confirm the mV, is it 150 with the idle stop backed right off, something higher at idle?

Sometimes if the high tension leads are open the bike will seem ok but when you open the throttle to accelerate it will start to miss on one or both cylinders, with extra pressure in the cylinders its harder for the spark to jump the gap. The leads often lose contact at the ends and start arcing inside, checking with your Ohmmeter from the plug cap will confirm that.
You don't need resistor wire AND resistor caps OR resistor plugs just one lot of 5k Ohms and the resistance of the coil.

If the tank gets any rust build up it flakes off and goes thru the pump which grinds it up super fine and collects on the surface of the filter, it's trapped there and will eventually choke off the fuel flow causing the bike to bog down on a hill. If you remove the filter and let the fuel inside run back out the inlet it will take most of the rust with it.
I believe your tank also has strainers on the petcocks, they can restrict flow also. Later models also have an electric petcock, chrome plated thing with a couple of wires screwed in where a normal petcock would be, I don't think yours will have that, let us know.
If the filter plugs the pump will get really noisy as the pressure shoots up to over 70 psi and it relieves internally (page 5)

You have enough homework to keep you busy for a while LOL

[lad]

Thanks Kiwi-Roy

I think you will have one of the large pizza box P8 ECUs..
There's a pizza there alright, I will check the voltage and maybe spray or replace the TPS if there's anything weird then.


You don't need resistor wire AND resistor caps OR resistor plugs just one lot of 5k Ohms and the resistance of the coil.
Will check this, simple enough procedure and I think I have copper core lying around somewhere to replace it

If the tank gets any rust build up it flakes off and goes thru the pump which grinds it up super fine and collects on the surface of the filter, it's trapped there and will eventually choke off the fuel flow causing the bike to bog down on a hill. If you remove the filter and let the fuel inside run back out the inlet it will take most of the rust with it.

If I get to the filter I'm just replacing it, looks rusted and probably stock at this stage

I believe your tank also has strainers on the petcocks, they can restrict flow also. Later models also have an electric petcock, chrome plated thing with a couple of wires screwed in where a normal petcock would be, I don't think yours will have that, let us know.
If the filter plugs the pump will get really noisy as the pressure shoots up to over 70 psi and it relieves internally (page 5)

Will let you know, I'm guessing strainer type. I don't think it's fuel starvation anyway, personally. I just want to check the filters as part of routine service before something bad happens. The pump is loud priming but other than that I don't notice it, tank is in good condition inside also.

You have enough homework to keep you busy for a while LOL

Off to my room then...

[lad]

Maybe I'll come over and set it up for you!!!!

Thanks Patrick! You're more than welcome, I'll look at them now after a voltage test. Tuner cleaner being carb cleaner? ?

[lad]

You can't hurt the engine.  It'll hit a rev limiter before you shift.

Clever girl! Good to know, thanks Tom